AndrewC's September Pilgrimage.

[andrewc]

So I'm finally sorting out a trip for September.   


Starting on Saturday 10th of September with a train to Leamington Spa and heading on from there.   The very rough plan is to head down to Avebury, over Salisbury plain if possible to Salisbury, where I will visit the cathedral & Old Sarum.   From there via Winchester to Chichester, cathedrals and the Pallant House gallery in Chichester then via the South Downs to Berwick Church & Charleston farmhouse (Bloomsbury Group) , then possibly a bit of the Cantii way to Canterbury and possibly onwards to Rochester.  I'll then get a local train into London for my pre-booked train back to Liverpool (Avanti West Coast permitting). 


Any suggestions for nice campsites, interesting places to visit and quiet roads welcome.

[Wowbagger]

How many days are you planning, Andrew? If you are still in Kent from 19th onwards, I may well make an attempt for a couple of nights.

[perpetual dan]

When you say via the South Downs, are you planning to get your tyres chalky - or see them in the view from quiet but flatter lanes to the north?

(I’m in Lewes)

[andrewc]

How many days are you planning, Andrew? If you are still in Kent from 19th onwards, I may well make an attempt for a couple of nights.

Sounds about right.  My train back from London is on the 23rd. 


Dan,  given my current level of fitness quiet & flat !

[JBB]

If you let me know rough dates/itinery for the Salisbury,  Winchester bit I can probably provide food/lawn space and ablutions.

[andrewc]

And so it begins…
Train to Wolverhampton was fine, just propped the bike up by the toilet with a strap to secure it. Connection to Leamington Spa had dangly bike spaces which had 2 bikes in. No chance of getting my beast onto the spare hook until they both got off.
Followed the canal for a bit out of Leamington. A bit of mud & a new set of cleats caused a clip less moment, but luckily Nothing Happened.


Off onto the Fosse Way, easy riding, busier than I’d have liked but mostly courteous.
Got to Shipton on Stour & had to buy a phone charging cable in Tesco as I’d packed the wrong one.  I’d not really planned a campsite, but decided to head for the C&CC one at Chipping Norton.  This meant some small hills, I’ve not done hills (or any riding) for ages & struggled a bit.  A visit to the Rollright Stones provided a rest break & some big skies.


I was very slow now & didn’t get to the campsite until after 8 when reception had closed.  Found a quiet vacant pitch & settled in. I’ll sort out registration in the morning.


Lamb steaks & a bowl of salad , then a late night shower.


Oh, I dropped my iPhone in the loo as well, but it seems to be ok.

[Kim]

I’d not really planned a campsite, but decided to head for the C&CC one at Chipping Norton. 

Has it stopped raining yet?  I got utterly soaked there on the way to the YACF meet last week.

[andrewc]

Ground is still a bit moist, but there was no rain today. 

[andrewc]

Up at 07:30 to fog. 1st breakfast of porridge. When I explained about not checking in last night they wouldn’t take any money.   I took the main road to Burford, which was ok. 2nd breakfast there, then pushed the bike to the top of the High Street.  On to Bibury then quiet lanes down to Cerney Wick & Ashton Keynes.


The site I’d previously used at Somerford Keynes has closed, so I’m currently at Parkside Farm near Wooton Bassett.  No one around to take any money. A very basic site, cold tap & a portaloo.

[ElyDave]

I did my A-levels at burford, that's definitely a hill to walk with a touring load. My favourite routes to uni at Bath were either through Bibury or down to Marlborough and across the Plain. 

[Cudzoziemiec]

Followed the canal for a bit out of Leamington. A bit of mud & a new set of cleats caused a clip less moment, but luckily Nothing Happened.

Surely you mean Nothing didn't Happen? Unless you actually did do a Basil...

...in which case dropping your phone in the loo probably cleaned it!

[Canardly]

I seem to remember Basil leaving a rather large chocolate totemic offering at the Rollrights some years ago.

[Basil]

I seem to remember Basil leaving a rather large chocolate totemic offering at the Rollrights some years ago.

I'd love to have seen someone finding it there.

[andrewc]

You can imagine the newspaper headlines. “Cycling sex cult leaves chocolate phallus after midnight orgy”
Partially untrue, but when has that ever bothered Reach Plc.

[Cudzoziemiec]

I presume "partially untrue" means the orgy was after midnight?

[andrewc]

Awake early, breakfast was tea & some nutty bars. Paid £10 at the farmhouse.  Into Wooton Bassett & the tea rooms I was planning to have 2nd breakfast at was closed. I had to make do with a sausage bap in Costa.


Out of WB & the pretty road to Clyfe Pypard, which in places had me walking again.  Over the top & big sky views, then a nice downhill into Avebury.    A couple of beers & a wander around the church and the stone circle. Several women hugging the stones…


Back on the bike in the direction of Alton Barnes, I didn’t fancy the campsite at the Barge so decided to try “Little Owls” at All Cannings.  A nice spot on another farm but all of the showers are out of use. £10 again.


Sausages & pasta, some light rain.

[Cudzoziemiec]

I'm not surprised Clyffe Pypard had you walking, it's a serious hill! Great at the top though.

[andrewc]

Machine gun fire & what sounds like artillery in the distance. Good job I packed earplugs.

[Wowbagger]

Isn’t it Royal Wootton Bassett these days? I would imagine that every resident spends the week in an induced coma as a mark of respect.

[andrewc]

A few Royal portraits in windows & a surprisingly small number of floral tributes in the High St.

[andrewc]

Up fairly early but I lazed around hoping the drizzle would stop. It didn’t & persisted for most of the day. My old Parrot pertex top kept most of it off, though it’s a bit snug around the midriff.


Single track roads to North Newton, then a main road to Upavon before more narrow & steep lanes following the Avon.  At Haxton I took the wrong turn, crossed the Avon and ended up on the A345 which was unpleasant.  I followed this to the Larkhill turnoff and after a moment at Woodhenge (not much to see) followed the road through the military estate for the dirt track to Stonehenge.  This drops you right at the point where someone is checking for tickets. He tried to send me to the visitor’s centre until I waved my English Heritage card in his face.  There are some Sheffield stands here as well.  A circuit of the stones, then I retraced my route to the main road.  Onwards to Amesbury & a lunch of supermarket sandwiches on a public bench in the drizzle.


More pretty lanes into Salisbury.  I bought some food at Tesco then booked into the C&CC site which is next to Old Sarum (and a floodlit sports pitch).


Still raining.   Lying in the tent listening to “ Carmina Burana”.

[andrewc]

I heard a strange lapping noise from outside. Sticking my head into the tent porch I find a cute cat drinking from one of my cooking pans.  I suppose I should have washed them earlier.  It’s still out there, lurking . I can see it’s eyes .

[andrewc]

It rained all night.   I had a late breakfast & wandered into Salisbury. Quite a nice & well preserved town centre .  I was expecting to pay £10 to visit the cathedral, but they were not charging, as some parts were closed to the public due to the mourning period.  This included the Magna Carta exhibition.  For some reason half of the Grayson Perry “Vanity Of Small Differences” was open & the other was roped off.  The cathedral is magnificent.


Another hour or so in the Salisbury Museum, excellent permanent exhibition of Neolithic discoveries from the local area.   I’d hoped to visit Old Sarum as well but didn’t have time.


https://www.salisburycathedral.org.uk/the-vanity-of-small-differences-a-personal-response-by-the-revd-stephen-tucker/


https://www.churchtimes.co.uk/articles/2022/9-september/books-arts/visual-arts/art-review-the-vanity-of-small-differences-by-grayson-perry-in-salisbury-cathedral

[andrewc]

On Thursday I woke up early, then dawdled & wasted time so left Salisbury quite late. It didn’t seem worthwhile stopping at Old Sarum so I rode past.  A pleasant enough days riding, though some steep roads.
Pitton, East Grimstead and quiet roads to Mottisfont. From there the main road to Kings Somborne and more quiet roads into Winchester itself.   I was too late for the cathedral so went straight out to the Caravan & Motorhome site at Morn Hill. I’ve stayed here before. Pricey at £20 for the night, but a Shiny New toilet block, with wonderful showers.   The next pitch was occupied by a couple bikepacking the South Downs Way. Almost no luggage, I don’t think they had cooking kit as the vanished to to nearest pub.

[andrewc]

Up fairly early & porridge for breakfast. Retraced my route into Winchester for a nose around the cathedral. As at Salisbury it was preoccupied with Royal mourning & bits were closed off.


Out on the road to Morestead, then some rolling uppie downy stuff to Meonstoke where I had a beer.  Looking at the map the quickest & easiest way seemed to be to follow the B2150 down to Waterlooville which was quite nice, and the cut through the Havant conurbation which was less enjoyable.


Currently at the C&CC site at Southborne, just outside Chichester. No separate tent area so I’m stuck between motorhomes with yapping dogs.  There is also a lot of traffic noise.  Definitely an earplugs night.