Removing stuck FSA chainset?

[andyoxon]

Any ideas how to remove the drive side crank/chainrings of this FSA Gossamer chainset.  NDS crank is removed but the axle (arm) doesn't knock out; so appears to be stuck.  Carry on with hard wood block and heavy hammer? What types of BB bracket is the one installed?

CdF4 by a oxon, on Flickr

[Hot Flatus]

spray with wd40, hit with hammer, put fsa chainset in bin where it belongs

[MattH]

Is it not the same as the Shimano Octalink, where you just need a square taper tool with a wider bit to push against the bottom bracket axle? Shimano's tool is to use a "top hat" adapter that slips into the threaded part of the that, with the "brim" just wide enough to sit on the outer edge without fouling the crank arm.


 One of my tools has that built in - looks like a normal square taper puller, but on closer examination the part that pushes against the axle has a narrow section that drops into the threaded area of the axle, then a step wider, whose shoulder presses on the axle. Others have a swappable tip so you can put a standard or an octalink on.

Google for Octalink crank tool to see some options. I literally did this yesterday on an old 105 chainset, which looks like this when on the bike (random image off the net, not mine) - the tool presses on the really thin exposed circle of the axle, less than 1mm all around.

[andyoxon]

Thx both.  AFAIA the FSA NDS crank which I removed is self-extracting, and with it off, the axle arm and DS crank rings should literally just press out.  it doesn't of course.  I'm wary of hitting too hard, & was wondering if the bottom bracket is bonded to the axle, whether force in hitting the axle end transmit to the bottom bracket threads in some way. 

Any ideas on removing that BB (pressfit?) when the time comes?

[MattH]

Ah, sorry, wrong end of stick then. The pic you showed looked like octalink, I'd assumed the same both sides.

I'd probably do what Flatus suggested then if it was mine.

[andyoxon]

I have taken off the black plastic BB ring around the arm, and with frame horizontal at least the wd-40 'bubbles in'.  Tried hitting again a few times again - doesn't budge.  Will just leave it 'soaking' I guess.

ETA.  I may need to bring the frame into the kitchen (to avoid irritating the neighbours), put earplugs in, and bash the axle until somthing happens...   

[rr]

Use a specific penetrating oil rather than WD40. Find a way to support the bottom bracket on other side so the hammer blows go to the moving the axle rather than flexing the frame.
This part should be removable by hand or with a light blow or two so the bearings and chain set are toast. Can you get a wedge, ball joint splitter, crown race removal tool or other wedge between the drive side bearing and the chain set?