For times when I'm shooting in the dark, but I need to work fast, I use fast glass and an on-camera speedlight with the flash turned off, but the AF-assist turned *on*.
On planet Nikon (I assume that it's roughly the same for you Cannon chappies) my SB900 will project a rather useful and jolly powerful red LED crisscross pattern about 20m or so out in front of me shortly before the shutter opens and this is enough to let my AF system do what it does so well. I last used it in anger shooting the Reclaim The Night march last month. Crisp focus at f/1.4, 1/125th and ISO 1600:
Lyope_036 by
lyope, on Flickr
When I'm shooting portraits in the dark, I tend to go for the Fenix option, too - but for gawd's sake turn it off before you release the shutter because the colour temperature makes people look bloody awful.
Hyperfocal distances are all very well, but they depend on you using relatively small apertures and, crucially, having the distances marked off on a scale on your lens (okay, you can probably get an iPhone app, too). All too often, modern glass does away with this scale and even if you do have it, if you're on a crop sensor, it wouldn't read right anyway.