Yet Another Cycling Forum

General Category => Rides and Touring => Topic started by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:21:23 am

Title: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:21:23 am
There is a lot of grin around here at the moment because I have just scooped 2 "bargain berth" tickets from Euston to Inverness for the 9.15 train on Tuesday 6th April (no, it hasn't been cancelled! >:(). We are heading for the Isle of Skye for probably 8 days - just depends on bargain berths back again, the tickets for which are not available yet.

So what's there to do on Skye for a week (and possibly a day or so on Raasay)?
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Redlight on 15 January, 2010, 09:24:09 am
With or without bikes?
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:24:44 am
That's a point. I haven't booked the bike reservations yet. Will do that now.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: clarion on 15 January, 2010, 09:39:59 am
Well, I suppose there's the Sky Ride ;)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:53:56 am
The tickets have been released only within the past 45 minutes and the Scotrail computer system hasn't got round to sorting out bike spaces yet. Have emailed them with my request and will phone again later today to confirm. At least I've got an 0845 number rather than spending everything I've saved with a £19 ticket on bloody 0780 numbers.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: ScumOfTheRoad on 15 January, 2010, 10:06:27 am
Wowbagger, make sure to visit Raasay. You'll love it.
I went there several years ago, two nights in the youth hostel. I went there on my much loved Trek 820 - first bike I bought new, and some b****** in London stole it. Anyway, first day there I went down to the shop and asked for a meat pie for my tea. "Yes - we'll ask for one to be brought on the boat tomorrow." I also caught myself chaining the bike up at the shop - which is pointless as if your bike is borrowed there is no way to get it off the island save the one ferry.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Redlight on 15 January, 2010, 10:55:37 am
A great day out would be to take the pass over to Kylerhea (on the eastern side) and take the ferry over to Glenelg - was free for bikes last time I went.  The views beofre you dip (perilously) down to Kylerha are spectacular, the pub in Glenelg used to do nice food and then there's a nice ride around the headland to Corran.  You'll need granny gears though! Unfortunately the only sensible way back is by the same route but then at least you'll get to enjoy the descents that had been climbs in the morning!  (Beware, up from Kylerhea is a stonker).
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 02:12:13 pm
Just got the bike reservations, and have booked tickets, with reservations on the 11 o'clockish train from Inverness to the Kyle.

I'm thinking about returning from Fort William, which will give us a lovely excuse to ride the Road from the Isles as a last day.

Now for some planning.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: mr endon on 15 January, 2010, 02:27:07 pm
You could take a leaf out of Kate Rew's book.
         Video: Wild swim: Skye's Fairy Pools |
            Travel |
            guardian.co.uk
    (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2009/aug/21/wild-swim-skye-fairy-pools)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: clarion on 15 January, 2010, 02:58:19 pm
That looks fantastic.

Cold, mind.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 03:27:56 pm
Loch Coruisk, where that was filmed, is many miles from the nearest road, shielded by what many consider to be Britain's most forbidding mountain range. Even Mrs. Wow and I, armed with Robin Thorn's most reinforced Rohloff, would be hard pressed to cycle there.

I reckon a reasonable alternative is in Glen Brittle, to the west of the Cuillins and with numerous waterfalls within easy reach of the road. I may well have to have a go at this, even though it will be April that we are there. I'll put in a jar of goose grease.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Rig of Jarkness on 15 January, 2010, 05:10:35 pm
This might give you some ideas...The Skye Trail - a long-distance walk through the Isle of Skye (http://www.skyetrail.org.uk/)

Cameron McNeish did it for a BBC Scotland programme that aired over Xmas, looked good.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Deano on 15 January, 2010, 07:56:56 pm
Visit the Talisker distillery.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Oaky on 15 January, 2010, 09:29:21 pm
Quote from: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:53:56 am
The tickets have been released only within the past 45 minutes and the Scotrail computer system hasn't got round to sorting out bike spaces yet. Have emailed them with my request and will phone again later today to confirm. At least I've got an 0845 number rather than spending everything I've saved with a £19 ticket on bloody 0780 numbers.

you almost certainly know this already, but depending on what your phone deal is, you may be able to find an equivalent, but cheaper number on the SAYNOTO0870.COM - Non-Geographical Alternative Telephone Numbers (http://www.saynoto0870.com/) site... (not just for 0870).
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 11:19:18 pm
Quote from: Oaky on 15 January, 2010, 09:29:21 pm
Quote from: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 09:53:56 am
The tickets have been released only within the past 45 minutes and the Scotrail computer system hasn't got round to sorting out bike spaces yet. Have emailed them with my request and will phone again later today to confirm. At least I've got an 0845 number rather than spending everything I've saved with a £19 ticket on bloody 0780 numbers.

you almost certainly know this already, but depending on what your phone deal is, you may be able to find an equivalent, but cheaper number on the SAYNOTO0870.COM - Non-Geographical Alternative Telephone Numbers (http://www.saynoto0870.com/) site... (not just for 0870).

Yes thanks, I tracked one down.

The plan at the moment is:-

6th - sleeper

7th - train to the Kyle, ride to Glenelg (ferry permitting) stay at the Glenelg Inn (bloody expensive)

8th - cycle to Corran and back via the ferry, to Breakish / Broadford

9th - Raasay

10th - Uig

11th - Portree

12th - Milovaig

13th - Glenbrittle (SYHA - fairy pools)

14th - Glasnakille

15th - Mallaig

16th - sleeper from Fort Wm.

17th- home.

8 days seem to have become 12. So far, no B & B has been booked, nor the return sleeper.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: andrewc on 16 January, 2010, 05:11:10 pm
I'm sure you'll need no encouragement to sample the local nectar http://www.skyebrewery.co.uk/products.php (http://www.skyebrewery.co.uk/products.php)

There is a beautiful (but steep) ride in the southern part of the island. A minor road that leaves the A851, I did it coming off the ferry from Mallaig, turn left at Kilbeg and climb (and climb) then descend to Tarskavaig enjoying the wonderful views of the mountains and sea. Continue to Ord and then climb/descend again to rejoin the main road. If you find an exposed roll of Kodachrome25 lying at the side of the road, I'd like it back...  :(
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: gordon taylor on 16 January, 2010, 05:25:48 pm
Quote from: andrewc on 16 January, 2010, 05:11:10 pm

...enjoying the wonderful views of the mountains and sea.


Mountains? I've been to Skye twice and never had the slightest glimpse of any mountains.
Midges and dense mist, certainly - but not mountains.  ;)
My tent blew down too.

Enjoy yourselves!
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Frenchie on 16 January, 2010, 05:32:22 pm
"Speed" and "Bonnie" in the same sentence, together with bike, evoked Bonneville, fuel fumes and maybe motorbikes to me... It also tickled my interest being authored by Wow I have to say.  ;) No, this title is misleading...  :P

Back to topic: Lovely place it is. Loved it when we went. Hope for the sun though and low cloud cover over the Cuillins, which are well worth walking/climbing then.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 16 January, 2010, 05:38:29 pm
It's a cultural reference, Frenchie.

http://www.contemplator.com/scotland/skyboat.html
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Frenchie on 16 January, 2010, 05:43:38 pm
My culture is too "mechanical (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonneville_Speedway)*"! Cheers for the reference.

* This is what you get with "Bonneville" and "speed" in Wiki. A Bonnie is the nickname for Bonneville too.

PS I still have this picture of you "bombing out" on a white dry lake in my mind though...  ;D
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 17 January, 2010, 09:20:39 pm
I think you'll find that the Scots borrowed bon, bonne from the French when the term "bonnie" was coined.

Also Charles Edward Stuart - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Edward_Stuart)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Mrs Pingu on 19 January, 2010, 04:52:46 pm
There's a good cake shop at Glenelg Candles. And there were a couple on Skye too (but sadly it's been a few years since we were last there so I can't guarantee they still exist). I think they should be on the Best Cake Shops map.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: ScumOfTheRoad on 19 January, 2010, 04:57:31 pm
Quote from: Wowbagger on 17 January, 2010, 09:20:39 pm
I think you'll find that the Scots borrowed bon, bonne from the French when the term "bonnie" was coined.


OMG. I'm Scottish and I genuinely never realised where 'bonnie' came from.
Ashet pie (assiette) yes,  minodge (menage) yes.
Vive l' Auld Alliance.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 22 January, 2010, 10:00:21 am
I've just booked our return tickets. Bit of a disappointment: I couldn't get bargain berths on Fri 16th April, so have booked 2 tickets @ £49 for the Thursday. We've decided to give the Glenelg night a miss because the ferry is weather-dependent.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Graeme Wyllie on 24 January, 2010, 10:13:14 pm
I'm jealous. 

Went to Skye in May 08 with Mrs G and took our bikes. 

"A" roads a wee bit buiser than we expected (but was a bank holiday) but off the beaten track was brilliant.

Definitely visit Raasay and cycle the whole island.  It makes Skye look like a metropolis. 

The road down to Armadale.  Lunch at the Isleornsay Hotel could easily have lasted until chucking oot time. 

Viewfield House B&B in Portree.  Very pleasantly surprised by having the run of a  grand old house when we were resigned to everything being a tourist trap.

Talisker distillery - well why not?

If you're riding from Mallaig to Fort William, the A830 is almost now totally revamped [several hillsides were flattened in the name of progress I'm afraid] and is far more open and exposed eg fast than previously - the quaint stretches with passing places have gone.  However some of the old road remain and are far preferable, not sure if they're officially signposted though.  Also, if your schedule permits take the quiet road on the south side of Loch Eil [which ultimnately heads to Ardgour] and catch the not very well known ferry from Camusnagaul to the heart of Ft William -

Highland Council Camusnagaul Ferry Information (http://www.lochabertransport.org.uk/camasnagaul.html)

My in laws live in the Fort, feel free to PM me if theres any local knowldge that I can obtain for you.

G
   
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 01 April, 2010, 11:40:52 am
Well, my first post now contains a lie, because our train has indeed been cancelled!

However, I have successfully transferred our reservations onto the Sunday night sleeper, so we are going two days early. We have resurrected the plan to visit Glenelg and Corran, which we abandoned through lack of time, but finding available B & Bs is a problem. All fully booked at the moment.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: ScumOfTheRoad on 01 April, 2010, 12:17:31 pm
I am the following - jealous. Sounds a great trip.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 01 April, 2010, 12:52:46 pm
And we've got two nights in Glenelg, at £20 per night each. That will give us the chance to do a little exploring towards Corran.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: bazzerp on 01 April, 2010, 07:53:22 pm
I am in awe Mr Wow - hope the weather is kind to you.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 01 April, 2010, 11:56:07 pm
One small disappointment this morning: due to her establishment being fully booked, I was unable to make a reservation with the evocatively-named Maggie Cameron.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 03 April, 2010, 12:59:13 pm
We are going into a deluge, by the look of the Met Office website. Western Scotland could well have 4 inches of rain in places over Monday & Tuesday, with a lot of melted snow throw in.

Whoopidoo!  :-\
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: David Martin on 03 April, 2010, 01:34:36 pm
Quote from: Wowbagger on 15 January, 2010, 03:27:56 pm
Loch Coruisk, where that was filmed, is many miles from the nearest road, shielded by what many consider to be Britain's most forbidding mountain range. Even Mrs. Wow and I, armed with Robin Thorn's most reinforced Rohloff, would be hard pressed to cycle there.

I reckon a reasonable alternative is in Glen Brittle, to the west of the Cuillins and with numerous waterfalls within easy reach of the road. I may well have to have a go at this, even though it will be April that we are there. I'll put in a jar of goose grease.

I cycled to Carmasunary for a few nights in the bothy. OK, cycled is a bit of an exaggeration in that I took my bike with me but had to walk over some of the lumpier bits. Gettign to Coruisk would have required a boat.

Glenbrittle is nice. Plenty of scenic walks around there.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Mrs Pingu on 03 April, 2010, 01:38:04 pm
Quote from: Wowbagger on 03 April, 2010, 12:59:13 pm
We are going into a deluge, by the look of the Met Office website. Western Scotland could well have 4 inches of rain in places over Monday & Tuesday, with a lot of melted snow throw in.

Whoopidoo!  :-\
Yeah, the first time Pingu took me to the West coast it was Easter. I told my mum we were going camping and she thought I was mad.
I ended up sleeping with all my clothes on, inside Pingu's down sleeping bag, under a 12 tog duvet and was still freezing. I wasn't expecting snow on the ground.... ;D
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 03 April, 2010, 08:17:12 pm
Revised plan:

4th - sleeper from Euston to Inverness

5th - train to Kyle of Lochalsh, cycle to Kylerhea, ferry to Glenelg

6th - Glenelg - Corran & back

7th - Glenelg - Breakish

8th - Breakish - Raasay

9th - Raasay - Uig

10th - Uig - Portree

11th - Portree - Milovaig

12th - Milovaig - Glenbrittle (SYHA - fairy pools)

13th - Glenbrittle - Glasnakille

14th - Glasnakille - Mallaig via ferry

15th - Mallaig - Fort William, sleeper

16th - home
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Domestique on 04 April, 2010, 08:20:16 am
Hope you have a good trip  :)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 04 April, 2010, 10:47:56 am
Logging out for the last time until Friday week. Bye!

Edit: that's actually not true because I might have access via my phone.
Title: Tomorrow
Post by: Wowbagger on 05 April, 2010, 04:14:23 am
In Edinburgh station being coupled and thinking about Kirst. We came in forwards but we are going out backwards.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: peliroja on 05 April, 2010, 09:21:55 am
Ooer, missus!

What an adventure, Wow. Have a great time!
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Marmitegeoff on 06 April, 2010, 06:55:37 am
Just seen this thread and am very jealous.  We say a Pine martin by the Brochs in Glen Elg.  do not envy you the climb out,  but the following descent is Awsome.

Enjoy the area.

Geoff
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: GlasgowDave on 08 April, 2010, 01:25:42 pm
I'm looking foward to the ride report and the photos.

It's given me some ideas for new places to visit, especially a wee trip to Glenbrittle

Dave
Title: Tomorrow
Post by: Wowbagger on 15 April, 2010, 07:01:19 pm
That was just fantastic. We are now at Fort William waiting to board.  We've just had a good meal at the Grog and Gruel. It's the only decent pub in the area. Full report and photos to follow.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: jane on 15 April, 2010, 11:44:43 pm
Well done Wow and Mrs Wow- you must have caught the lovely weather myself and my daughter caught the beginning of as we ended our walk to Cape Wrath (me from Ullapool, her from Fort William- she has become one tough cookie)- hope to be seeing you and exchanging tales of Scotland on Saturday.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 16 April, 2010, 11:40:49 pm
(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7286-2/DSC04951.JPG)

I've put all my photos in my gallery (http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/v/Holidays/skye2010/DSC04859.JPG.html). The above, showing the Black Cuillins over the Snizort river, is just a taster.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Tourist Tony on 17 April, 2010, 12:23:20 pm
Missed this thread!Wanted to tell you to eat at the Three Chimneys in Colbost.....
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: toekneep on 17 April, 2010, 04:22:29 pm
Ooh, how exciting, a Wowbagger tour report. We haven't  had one of those for a while. I'm looking forward to it, especially as it is somewhere I'm keen to go and explore myself. Glad you two had a good time.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 18 April, 2010, 10:16:45 am
Quote from: Tourist Tony on 17 April, 2010, 12:23:20 pm
Missed this thread!Wanted to tell you to eat at the Three Chimneys in Colbost.....

We deliberately avoided the 3 Chimneys. Reading their website, it seemed that they charge vast amounts for meals because ... that's what their reputation is based on. As it happened, our B & B when we were in that bit of the island also supplied us with a first-rate 3-course home-cooked dinner (cullen skink starter, roast beef main course followed by fruit crumble) for an extra tenner. Superb!
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Mrs Pingu on 18 April, 2010, 10:46:30 am
+1. Every so often I think I really ought to eat at the 3 Chimneys, and then I go to the website and think, 'haha, it can't be that good!' I'd want sexual favours thrown in for that price, so now I'm just angling for Pingu to take me to the Airds at Port Appin.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Tourist Tony on 18 April, 2010, 11:04:00 am
I was lucky....I went there BEFORE they became "one of the top 100 places to eat in the world"
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: GlasgowDave on 18 April, 2010, 01:00:36 pm
just been through the photos (all of them) and there are some great shots.

Why are you performing the Haka at KyleRea?

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7031-2/DSC04865.JPG)

And the peanut butter sequence made me laugh out loud.

I'm still looking forward to the write up.

Dave
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 18 April, 2010, 04:36:03 pm
I've written a daily diary in paper form, but haven't had the chance to put it on the net yet.

That haka is a donhu (wild guess at spelling - pronounced "donyou") which is a tai chi warmup exercise.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 19 April, 2010, 09:24:49 pm
Sunday 4th and Monday 5th April

We arrived at Euston in plenty of time and spied a couple of heavily-laden cyclists. They were returning to Aberdeen after visiting relatives. I kept on looking at the departures board to see which platform our train was on, and eventually, it was announced: 13. We made our way down the ramp and looked for coach N, berths 5 and 6. The Scotrail host was there with a list of names.

I showed him our ticket.

"We've re-arranged our booking because of the threatened strike. We were initially supposed to be travelling Tuesday but we've got a berth for tonight. Coach N, Berths 5 & 6." I showed him the 8-digit booking reference.

"I'm sorry, sir, those berths are booked to a Mr & Mrs. Howlett. We don't have any passengers named Walker on our list."

Our man walked off with all our paperwork, which worried me, but a few minutes later he returned. "I'm sorry, sir, these tickets are for Tuesday and we have no record of you having booked berths on this train. I'm afraid you won't be allowed to board."

"Well in that case I'd like to speak to the train manager."

"He's down the far end of the train."

Within minutes two stowaways had decoupled their tandem, hung it in the guard's van and taken their luggage to the car with reclining seats, waiting for the train to set off. I felt that when I had my confrontation with the train manager, I would hold all the trump cards if we were snugly settled in a seat and travelling along at 60 mph rather than standing on a platform with a laden bike.

When we were under way I decided to buy some coffee. This was a tactical error as the man who had told me we were not allowed to board the train was serving at the hatch. Unsurprisingly, he recognised me and soon enough I was introduced to the train manager. Firstly he was going to put us off at Watford. Then he was going to charge us a full fare to Inverness and I would have to try to claim it back from Scotrail later. When it became clear that I was having none of that and that as a fare-paying passenger I didn't expect to have my holiday wrecked firstly by a company that wasn't big enough to admit to its mistakes when it screwed up, and secondly by a silly blinkered man who didn't seem to realise that having two extra passengers on his almost empty train was not going to be the end of the world, he eventually conceded that he didn't disbelieve me, but he still wasn't going to open one of the many empty berths so that we could actually lie in a bed for 8 hours or so.

I slept fitfully. I remember waking up in Preston and again in Edinburgh, in this case when the train split into three parts, heading for Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen. We went through Stirling in the pouring rain. I looked out for the castle but didn't see it. We crossed the Tay at Dunkeld and after this we could see snow-covered mountains through the rain-drops on the window. Gradually the snow encroached closer to the track and as dawn broke, somewhere the other side of many thousands of feet of nimbus cloud, no-one noticed. Shortly before we arrived in Inverness, the rain stopped.

The first port of call was the ticket office where someone equipped with a computer would be able to key in our booking code and tell me what had happened. It took a few seconds for us to find out that whoever had changed our booking had reallocated us to the wrong Sunday and we were down to travel on 11th April. Just as we were doing this, the train manager and his sidekick appeared and I beckoned them to see for themselves that we were bona fide passengers who had been let down and that if he had had his wits about him and a laptop, then he could have done that in London and saved us all a lot of grief. He was peevish and unapologetic and has been the subject of a strongly-worded letter of  complaint to Scotrail.

While we were at the ticket office we made doubly sure that our booking on the 11.01 to the Kyle of Lochalsh was properly arranged. We were assured that it was, but for good measure the lady we spoke to date-stamped our tickets and gave us prints of our reservations. After that we found some breakfast and then explored a small section of NCN 1, a bit we hadn't ridden before.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7012-2/DSC04859.JPG)

We left Inverness at the appointed time, arrived at the Kyle an hour and a half later, realised that it wasn't raining and then rode towards the bridge. It wasn't long before we had to get off and push: the bridge is fairly steep, but the side-wind made it impossible to ride. Once over the other side, we headed towards Broadford but looked for the left turn to the Glenelg ferry.

This was where we found our second snag: the ferry wasn't running because of the high wind so we would not be able to get to the B & B that we had booked. We rode to Breakish and found Ruisgarry (http://www.isleofskye.net/ruisgarry/), which had vacancies. We unloaded our stuff, stored the tandem in the large hangar which our landlady's husband used for his boat repair business and had a couple of hours' kip while the wind tried to tear the fence apart and uproot the palm tree. At about 6.30 we phoned for a taxi to take us for some food in Broadford. By this time it was pouring with rain and we didn't fancy either walking or cycling.

There's nothing like a good meal to lift the spirits, and the Claymore provided both food and drink. The beer was Red Cuillin and it went down well. After we had eaten we found a Co-op (that's why I love the Co-op: it supports outposts in the far-flung places where the other supermarkets wouldn't bother) and made sure we had some calories in our panniers  for the following day. The Co-op phoned Norma the taxi driver and we returned to our B & B for about 10 hours' sleep.

Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 19 April, 2010, 10:11:57 pm
Tuesday 6th April

Last night's gales had abated by morning, which ushered in a strong breeze bearing plenty of near-horizontal rain. After a good breakfast we said goodbye to Dorothy MacLeod and headed for the Kylerhea ferry. The wind had dropped considerably by the time we reached the ferry road, and what was mostly a deserted road was punctuated by the occasional convoy of two or three cars, an indication that the ferry was running.

It was a long, grinding climb to the summit, over 900' above sea level, but when we plummeted to the other side, we could see the ferry on the far bank. It took only a couple of minutes for it to cross the water and it was most impressive to see the turntable bearing thee cars and their passengers being swivelled by just two men pushing and pulling in the right places.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7031-2/DSC04865.JPG)

While we were waiting we practised a little tai chi.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7037-2/DSC04868.JPG)

When all the motorists had disembarked, we had the ferry to ourselves. £4 for a return trip seemed pretty cheap, so I gave them an extra quid: this is a community-run project and the ferry had spent the winter in Stornoway being refurbished.

We were ready for lunch when we reached the Glenelg Inn, as well as being soaked, so we disrobed as much as we dared, but it was most disappointing to see how reluctant the fire was to yield any heat. However,  the tomato soup was hot and we had some coffee to complete the warming process.

At about 2 p.m. we were ready to introduce ourselves to Mrs. Catriona Davidson and we found her house at the second attempt. She fed us tea and cake and soon the rain stopped so we prepared to cycle, unladen, to Corran.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7040-2/DSC04869.JPG)

It was a stunningly beautiful route and we kept our eyes open for otters, pine martens and eagles, all of which can be seen, but apart from the first house martin of the summer, there was not a great deal to report until we reached Arnisdale, where half a dozen red deer were grazing in someone's garden. They were not terribly troubled by our presence.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7049-2/DSC04872.JPG)

After a lot more effort we reached Sheena's tea hut, the most southerly extent of civilisation on that particular peninsula, and since Knoydart was the next one, pretty much until Mallaig miles to the south. We had tea and I enjoyed a delicacy known as a "clootie dumpling".

Sheena was probably a little older than us and although pleasant and chatty, spoke of little but disease, dementia and death. She did tell us that when she was a young mother in the area they had neither electricity nor running water and she had to wash her babies' nappies in the burn. We were, however, glad to get away because it seemed that anyone who spent too much time in her presence was doomed.

We seemed to make better time on the return trip and arrived at the pub about twenty minutes before the time at which I had booked the table. The food was pretty good, but when the bill arrived it was about £10 more than total on the mental tally I had kept. I spotted that two items had been seriously overpriced and they were put right, but it was not until we were back in our room that I realised that we had still overpaid by the price of an extra dessert, which we had not had. I couldn't help thinking that those "mistakes" were deliberate.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 19 April, 2010, 10:28:50 pm
Wednesday 7th April

We awoke to a very pleasant morning - little wind and a fair bit of blue sky. After a good breakfast we made our way back to the ferry, playing leapfrog with the dustcart as we went. once again, we arrived at the jetty to see the ferry on the far side. We spent a few minutes with a collie whose party piece was to round up stones. She brought them to us, we threw them away, and she brought them back unless we had thrown them into the water, in which case she just found another stone.

When we left the ferry, which we had shared with a family of cyclists, we made our way towards the "Otter Haven". This is a stretch of beach above which someone has built a large and snug hide. No doubt that there are otters there from time to time, but our observations were limited to a pair of herons, two geese and a mallard as well as a pair of long-tailed tits. As we were leaving I caught a glimpse of what may have been an eagle, suddenly appearing over the mountain top but disappearing again before I could train the binoculars on it.

Then the long climb began. We succeeded in staying on the bike until over the 700' mark, but that was where the 20% gradient began so we stopped for a bagel and some dried fruit.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7076-2/DSC04881.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7070-2/DSC04879.JPG)

Once at the top we had a lovely 5-mile romp towards Broadford. We were due in Scorrybreac B & B, but not yet, so went to visit the hand spinner's wool shop to get Mrs. Wow's fix. After that we dropped in to Beinn na Caillich where we experimented with different types of cake. Thereafter, we ventured to Scorrybreac where we were admitted and we made ourselves at home.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 19 April, 2010, 11:07:40 pm
Thursday 8th April

We headed north out of Broadford along the A87. The plan was to catch the 11.30 ferry, but that proved too ambitious. We took the old road (my 1" map showed no other route) because it was much flatter than the "new" A87, which climbs to well over 400'.

The A87 is an innovation, renumbered since the Skye Bridge was opened and allowed lorries from the Western Isles simply to use Skye as a stepping stone to the mainland. The crossing from Stornoway to Ullapool is a 6-hour crossing and involves a much longer drive than the ferry to Uig and the drive across Skye. The old road now serves nothing more than a couple of salmon farms. There was a sign to Moll, 3 miles away, but we didn't notice it as we stormed through. Indeed, I thought we were going to manage the entire 7-mile stretch of road without seeing another vehicle, but in the last mile or so were overtaken by a convoy of 8 vehicles, mostly Audis, BMWs and a Range Rover.

We missed the 11.30 ferry by a few minutes so we sat in the heated shelter provided for the use of ferry foot passengers and while we did so we ate some dried fruit and a bagel or two. Eventually the ferry arrived and we boarded, along with a couple of cars. As we approached Raasay a couple of very large birds appeared - I'm sure they were eagles - and they soared around for a while. They had disappeared by the time we were on dry land.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7100-2/DSC04889.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7112-2/DSC04893.JPG)

A rather annoying young man named Tim greeted us when we arrived at the Raasay Hotel. All smarm and training, he told us that he had only been there a week and that he had 1001 things to do. He doubled up as receptionist and bar staff and probably concierge as well, but we carried our own luggage up to the room.

Once we had settled in we explored the island, heading north to Arnish. We didn't get that far, deciding to cut the ride short and have a relatively early dinner, after which we contemplated a stroll. We met a young couple on ancient bikes but soon after we decided to head back we met the girl again, with a deflated rear tyre. I tried, unsuccessfully, to mend the puncture. She found the hole quickly enough and we patched it but by the time we got the wheel back on the bike the tyre was going soft again. She had enough pressure to get her most of the way home, but it was irksome not to have sorted her problem out properly.

We ate in the dining room and while we were eating a couple we had met in Glenelg arrived. We started chatting and spent a pleasant evening in the company of Simon & Frances: he's a surgeon in Edinburgh and she's a manager, having previously been a nurse. When we had finished eating we all went for a walk around the Balfour Beattie building site, which will eventually become a large and impressive jetty.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7145-2/DSC04904.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7166-2/DSC04911.JPG)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 08:12:34 am
Friday 9th April

Our would-be efficient Maître d' spent a great deal of time faffing with a computer and a calculator before charging us almost £140 for the privilege of a night's stay at a not-very-spectacular establishment. Eventually we got away and managed to catch the ferry.

Jan was not feeling well and we had a number of stops on the way to Portree. Fortunately the climb was not difficult and it seemed that the downhill reward was out of all proportion to our earlier efforts. We dropped into a café in Portree's main square for late 11ses and eventually trundled away, dropping into the Co-op for more supplies.

The weather was cloudy and mild and we were mostly wind-assisted. Lunch was a home-made affair eaten whilst sitting in a bus shelter, but my dear wife ate only an extra strong mint. Finally we arrived in Uig, which is approached from what would have been a 40+ mph descent had it not been for the need to avoid a trio of sheep which had decided to occupy a good deal of the road and forced me into using the brakes.

We found Harris Cottage and Jan slept whilst I read. A young family arrived, having driven from the Edinburgh area en route for Harris. Their ferry left Uig at 9.30 the following morning. We chatted for a while and soon after 7 I woke Jan and we walked down to the Ferry Inn for dinner. On the way back we phoned Dez from a call box, Uig having yet to realise the delights of a mobile phone signal.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Mrs Pingu on 20 April, 2010, 01:05:48 pm
We went to the 'Otter Haven' several times, otterly without success, having at the time been given a completely bum steer by English TV naturalists banging on about shy otters lurking about at dawn and dusk.
Eventually we looked in the wildlife sightings book in the Broadford tourist info and saw that reports were mostly at lunchtime, headed straight down there and saw them almost straight away. :)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 05:51:32 pm
Saturday 10th April

Today's was one of the most marvellous day's riding it is possible to have. The scenery was as spectacularly beautiful as you would be likely to see anywhere, and being bathed in unbroken glorious spring sunshine was a bonus indeed.

We climbed from Harris Cottage to about 300' and watched the ferry leave, bound for Harris. We could see the Western Isles quite clearly even though they were 1 hour and 40 minutes sail away.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7199-2/DSC04922.JPG)

We visited the Museum of Island Life, where a collection of crofts housed artefacts from farming and the local wool industry. Flora McDonald's monument was in a graveyard up the hill, so we couldn't be bothered to look at that.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7208-2/DSC04925.JPG)

When we rounded the northernmost point of the Trotternish peninsula, we had a wonderful view of a whole series of snow-capped Munroes, the most obviously identifiable of which was Slioch. We had viewed this in 2006 from the northern slopes of Beinn Eighe.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7223-2/DSC04930.JPG)

Larger image (http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/v/Holidays/skye2010/DSC04930.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1).

From right to left (I think): Beinn Eighe, Slioch, Mullach Coire and An Teallach (has the most snow). We climbed the last of these on our 2006 holiday, and I also drank a lot of the beer produced by a brewery of the same name.

The ride south to Portree was hampered by a strong headwind, which meant that although we climbed to over 600' in places, more often than not we had to pedal on the descents. We visited Kilt Rock,

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7250-2/DSC04939.JPG)

where a coach driver / guide was explaining the origins of this rock.

(click to show/hide)

We saw Lealt Waterfall, which hurtled down a deep ravine

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7253-2/DSC04940.JPG)

and the Old Man of Storr

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7259-2/DSC04942.JPG)

who looked as though there was still plenty of lead in his pencil.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7262-2/DSC04943.JPG)

Finally we arrived in Portree and found our B & B, from which we had an excellent view of the Cuillins.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7265-2/DSC04944.JPG)

After some faffage, some laundry and an excellent meal from The Lower Deck, we retired for the night.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7268-2/DSC04945.JPG)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: LindaG on 20 April, 2010, 05:53:35 pm
A most excellent ride report Wowbagger.  I'm so glad you didn't let the forecast put you off  :)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 08:54:31 pm
Sunday 11th April

The highest priority today was shopping: it was fortuitous that we had chosen Portree for our starting point on the Sunday: religious fundamentalism forces the closing of pretty well every shop on the island except for Somerfields (now owned by the Co-op, gawd bless 'em) and the Co-op itself. We bought food and, too early in the season for Somerfields to stock it and for the Co-op to put it on display, sun tan lotion.

We left along the B885, towards Bracadale, unable to believe our luck that the weather, if anything, was even better than yesterday as the wind had dropped. We climbed again, but there was only one stretch in which we felt obliged to walk. This was just after we had stopped to photograph a wonderful view along the Snizort river, the Cuillins framed perfectly above.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7286-2/DSC04951.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7289-2/DSC04952.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7295-2/DSC04954.JPG)

A few minutes later we stopped again, for a very good view of what we thought at the time was a sea eagle, but in fact was a juvenile golden eagle (it was the white tail which fooled us).

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7304-2/DSC04957.JPG)

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Aquila_chrysaetos_USFWS.jpg/436px-Aquila_chrysaetos_USFWS.jpg)

The second photo is from Wikipedia, but ours looked just like that through the binoculars.

A while later, in Struan, we ate our lunch at a picnic table - rolls with finger-applied peanut butter.
(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7306-2/DSC04958.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7309-2/DSC04959.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7312-2/DSC04960.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7315-2/DSC04961.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7318-2/DSC04962.JPG)
(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7321-2/DSC04963.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7324-2/DSC04964.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7327-2/DSC04965.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7330-2/DSC04966.JPG)(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7333-2/DSC04967.JPG)

We conversed with a motor cyclist with a Black Country accent (Jan had him coming from Cumbria). He had ridden up from the Lake District and bore useful information about the pub in Carbost.

We found an isolated hotel where we bought tea. The landlady advised us that Dunvegan would be the best place to buy provisions for the youth hostel at Glenbrittle the following night, and that the Old Inn in Carbost serves food all day in the summer months. This sort of information is vital when cycling in remote areas.

Gradually we inched our way towards Glendale, stopping every so often to take photographs - it's much too easy to run out of superlatives when describing highland scenery in the sunshine.

After a very steep ascent out of Colbost, during which we read of The Crofters' Struggle (http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/info/History/TheCroftersStruggle) in the late 19th century, we hurtled down the other side and arrived at The Byre, a lovely little B & B looking down the valley towards Loch Pooltiel.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7364-2/DSC04977.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7367-2/DSC04978.JPG)

Julian & Diane supplied us with a very good dinner consisting of cullen skink, roast beef etc. and apple crumble, after which I rode solo down to the loch to have a look around, returning just in time to watch a spectacular sunset.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7397-2/DSC04988.JPG)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 09:17:19 pm
Monday 12th April

More sunshine this morning, but more hazy than yesterday and with little wind. We made good time and removed the need for a trip to Dunvegan by phoning the youth hostel warden, who offered to do some shopping or us.

We were on the road by 10, and our progress seemed much more rapid than yesterday's. We had late 11ses at the same picnic table at which we had eaten our lunch the day before.

After Bracadale we were breaking new ground and we followed the coast for a while before climbing into some seemingly deserted hills. There were no villages and few dwellings on the road towards Carbost, and we hurtled down the hill towards the junction only to find ourselves climbing again before the village.

We stopped at the pub or food, and their casserole of beef cheek was excellent. Jan had the fish and chips. Their bottled beer (locally brewed) was only £2.90 a pint, which I thought was pretty good. There was a noisy altercation between two dogs, the pub dog and an interloper, while we were eating. The interloper was banished to a car.

There was a marked change in the weather while we were in the pub: we emerged into much fresher, cooler air, the haze had gone and the wind had strengthened.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7415-2/DSC04994.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7418-2/DSC04995.JPG)

This was unhelpful a we climbed towards Glenbrittle but eventually we hurtled down the other side, reaching 43.8 mph in the process.

Staying in a youth hostel was a bit of a shock after being pampered by a succession of B & Bs. We showered, washed some clothes, put duvet covers on duvets and cooked ourselves some sausages. I helped a young chap armed with a steel-rimmed Dawes put a new tyre on his front wheel. My payment was a small portion of apple crumble covered in thin custard and a hard-boiled egg. This fellow was part of a trio who gave us advanced warning of potential problems with the sleeper trains as a result of industrial action. I had this terrible feeling of déjà vu.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7421-2/DSC04996.JPG)
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: woollypigs on 20 April, 2010, 09:28:17 pm
Ok that is it we are going to this route, beautiful and brilliant write up.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: CrinklyLion on 20 April, 2010, 09:32:38 pm
I always like people's ride reports and some of them, like this, just make you want to go out on your bike and explore....
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 09:50:15 pm
Tuesday 13th April

I slept surprisingly well, considering that I was ensconced with a dozen or so strange blokes in a dormitory. I was quite impressed by the advanced age of the youths who frequented the Glenbrittle Youth Hostel, although to be fair later on some more youthful chaps & chapesses did arrive.

We had sausage butties and porridge for breakfast and were away shortly after 9, having discussed with the warden the midge-infested nature of Glenbrittle when the summer arrives. The first hour yielded only 3 miles as we pushed the tandem a good way up the enormous hill. Once over the other side, we kept up a good speed, but again had a bit of a slog just before we reached the A-road.

There was another climb over the top to Sligachan but it was long rather than steep. We stopped at the Sligachan Hotel for midday bacon butties and tea, and reached Sconser in time to see the 1 p.m. ferry waiting to depart for Raasay. I was quite concerned about our progress: this was to be a 46-mile or more day, at least 10 miles more than we had done on any other day, and I knew there would be large hills. The Glenbrittle hill was probably the highest of the day, but there were other close rivals, particularly as we approached our destination near Elgol.

It did not help that the A87 was the subject of major road works and a convoy system was in operation. We found oursleves stopped for some time behind a white van and a plan began to form.

"Shall I tap on the window and see if we can scrounge a lift?"

"No! You mustn't!"

"Why not? He's bound to be heading for the Kyle Bridge. He could drop us in Broadford and that would save us about 16 miles of nasty, busy road."

"No, you mustn't!"

Half an hour later we lifted the tandem out of the back of the van, I gave the driver a tenner and we freewheeled the few yards down to the same café where we had eaten our lunch a few days previously. When we finished our proper lunch we visited the wool shop again where Jan bought her fix of something colourful to play with when we get home.

After that we set off along the B-road towards Elgol. Initially it was easy going - not much climbing and lovely views, a low-level lochside road. But the last 5 or 6 miles were very hard work indeed, each big climb being followed by a steep descent and another big climb. I think the 25% descent into Elgol was possibly the steepest road we have ever ridden down.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7445-2/DSC05004.JPG)

We reached Rowan Cottage around 6 p.m but that would have been at least 9 o'clock without our lift from the White Van Man.

We dined at the Coruisk seafood restaurant where Jan had the decidedly unaquatic lamb cutlets. I went the whole crustacean and had squatties for starters. These poor little creatures are unfortunate to taste absolutely delicious, even though they bear a strong resemblance to a woodlouse, albeit about two inches long and in a delightful shade of pink. Just like woodlice, they arrive curled up into a ball. In order to remove the tasty bit from the carapace you have to uncurl the ball and then push edible flesh upwards with your thumbnail.

For my main course I had mussels and an "Elgol Mess" for afters. We finished off with coffee and a malt whisky ("The Ileach") for me.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 10:05:52 pm
Wednesday 14th April

On leaving Rowan Cottage, we had been advised that we would immediately head north and not retrace our steps from yesterday. This would take us to a rocky path which, although less than a mile long, would save about 3 of the previous day's hilliest miles. We would rejoin the metalled road at Drinan, then straight back onto the B road towards Torrin. This proved to be excellent advice and saved us at least an hour of struggling.

Again the weather was stunning and we took some memorable photographs towards Sleat.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7451-2/DSC05006.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7454-2/DSC05007.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7472-2/DSC05013.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7475-2/DSC05014.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7481-2/DSC05016.JPG)

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7496-2/DSC05021.JPG)

At one point we saw something disturbing the otherwise mirror-like surface of the loch below. I trained the binoculars onto whatever it was and was delighted to see a school or porpoises surfacing and diving.

We made good time and having started cycling around 10, we were in Broadford about 12. We were still armed with peanut butter rolls (prepared in rather more civilised circumstances, using youth hostel cutlery), fig rolls and flapjack so we pressed on and stopped at about 1 p.m. for lunch on the Armadale road. Just as we turned off the A87, who should we see coming the other way but Gwyneth & Steve, our host and hostess of the night before.

Once again we were rewarded with unbroken sunshine and on this southbound stretch we had the sun in our faces and the wind at our backs. We arrived at the Armadale jetty with almost an hour to wait for the 3.50 ferry, so we celebrated with an ice cream and a conversation with an antipodean visitor who wanted a picture of a typical pom couple on their quaint half-timbered bike.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 20 April, 2010, 10:27:21 pm
Thursday 15th April

We left Mallaig at 9.52 and began the longest ride of the holiday: over 40 miles to Fort William.

The Road to the Isles is one of the classic rides, although doubtless less spectacular now than it used to be when it was single track road all the way. Even though it's a fast, two-lane A-road, there are still climbs and of course all the mountains are still in place, but on the last day of a long holiday it takes more determine cyclists than us to stick religiously to the old road, where it still exists.

We slogged along, often in low gear, but every so often there would be a long sweeping descent and a few times we exceeded 35 mph. We stopped for lunch at the Lochailort Hotel, but there was neither cake nor bacon butties. We bought tea and sat outside, smearing peanut butter on the rolls we had bought at the Mallaig Co-op.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7550-2/DSC05039.JPG)

Fortified, we carried on towards Glenfinnan, stopping briefly for a photograph of our first glimpse of Ben Nevis.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7556-2/DSC05041.JPG)

Glenfinnan, at the head of Loch Shiel, has an elevated statue of Bonnie Prince Charlie, commemorating the 1745 Gathering of the Clans. After Glenfinnan there is one more climb, quite gentle, and a rapid descent to Loch Eil.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7565-2/DSC05044.JPG)

From this point the road follows the lochside and there is no more climbing to speak of, so our speed kept up around 15 mph for long stretches. Every so often we would stop to take a picture of the monstrous mountain.

(http://peter.chesspod.com/gallery/d/7571-2/DSC05046.JPG)

Once we were in Fort William, it did not take us long to find the station. Just before we did so, we passed a young couple who seemed to be struggling rather.

"Have you been up the Ben?" I enquired.

"Yes," came the reply.

"Well done!" said I, "I could tell by the way you were walking!"

And that, really, was about that. We had a good meal and some beer in the Grog & Gruel, which I think is the only decent pub in Fort William, and then found the station. The train ride from Fort William is quite magnificent and I took a load more photos, after which we found our berth and had a bit of kip before getting up at 1 a.m in Edinburgh in order to transfer the tandem, in two pieces, from one guard's van to another as our train joined up with two others. The next thing I knew we were in Rugby and we were in Liverpool Street in time to catch the 8.55 train to Southend.

All in all, not a bad little holiday.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: David Martin on 20 April, 2010, 10:49:42 pm
Sounds absolutely fantastic. I loved my cycle trip to Skye. After the morst of the ups and downs between Broadford and Elgol there is a path off to the west. This leads, via a somewhat interestign track, to the bothy at Carmasunary. Beautiful place.

..d
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: toekneep on 21 April, 2010, 07:07:21 am
Thanks WB, you have definitely awakened something. I did an island hopping trip on the bike about twenty odd years ago but Gill has never done it. I shall point her to your excellent report and if she isn't interested I will eat my saddle.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 21 April, 2010, 07:16:14 am
I can't stress too strongly: all the advice we received from B & Bs was to go in the spring. I suppose it would be possible to look up the weather records, but we were told that every April and May for several years had been mostly dry and sunny whereas July and August tend to be wet. Also, later in the year you are guaranteed to be eaten alive by midges and crowded out by cars and caravans, which on those tiny roads would really spoil the ride. Even on the A roads, we saw very little traffic, the one exception being the A87. Even that was light compared to even relatively minor roads in SE England.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: toekneep on 21 April, 2010, 07:35:00 am
Quote from: Wowbagger on 21 April, 2010, 07:16:14 am
I can't stress too strongly: all the advice we received from B & Bs was to go in the spring. I suppose it would be possible to look up the weather records, but we were told that every April and May for several years had been mostly dry and sunny whereas July and August tend to be wet. Also, later in the year you are guaranteed to be eaten alive by midges and crowded out by cars and caravans, which on those tiny roads would really spoil the ride. Even on the A roads, we saw very little traffic, the one exception being the A87. Even that was light compared to even relatively minor roads in SE England.

Thanks for that tip WB, our trips for this year are already pencilled in so maybe 2011 in the spring will see us up that way.
Title: Re: Speed bonnie bike...
Post by: Wowbagger on 06 February, 2024, 11:50:27 pm
Something of a thread necromancy here...

The vast majority of my old ride reports have lost access to their images, because of my inability to resurrect my old Gallery software. This has saddened me greatly.

However, I've decided to resurrect some of the better ones and they are now on my Wordpress blog, where I can easily move the original images. For this report, it's here: https://gentlemancyclist.co.uk/?m=201004