Author Topic: Blodwyn Again !  (Read 4112 times)

Blodwyn Pig

  • what a nice chap
Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #25 on: 27 February, 2018, 06:51:52 am »
Ah!!! Ok, no chrome then. :thumbsup: Don't want any Hydrogen embrittlement round these parts, oh no!.

Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #26 on: 27 February, 2018, 08:02:26 am »
With chrome and corrosion, there's always the aluminium foil trick...

Quote
A simple and inexpensive way to remove rust from and polish chrome surfaces by hand is to rub it with aluminum foil dipped in water. This process yields two advantages. First, since the aluminum foil is softer than steel, it will not scratch the surface. And second, a by product of the process produces a fine metal polishing compound that smoothes the chrome surface to a bright shine.
   http://www.robertscycle.com/cleaning-chrome-info.html

I often reach for the aluminium to remove rust from bolt heads...
Cycle and recycle.   SS Wilson

Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #27 on: 27 February, 2018, 08:14:48 am »
Ah!!! Ok, no chrome then. :thumbsup: Don't want any Hydrogen embrittlement round these parts, oh no!.

Perhaps, but like the bike itself, it’s looks fantastic, real class!

A

Blodwyn Pig

  • what a nice chap
Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #28 on: 27 February, 2018, 08:18:30 am »
With chrome and corrosion, there's always the aluminium foil trick...

Quote
A simple and inexpensive way to remove rust from and polish chrome surfaces by hand is to rub it with aluminum foil dipped in water. This process yields two advantages. First, since the aluminum foil is softer than steel, it will not scratch the surface. And second, a by product of the process produces a fine metal polishing compound that smoothes the chrome surface to a bright shine.
   http://www.robertscycle.com/cleaning-chrome-info.html

I often reach for the aluminium to remove rust from bolt heads...

I've never heard of that one.! 

Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #29 on: 27 February, 2018, 09:39:22 am »
the very first signs of corrosion on some types of chrome plate are rusty marks on the surface of the chrome. These can be removed in a variety of way including using aluminium foil. However there may already be tiny pits in the chrome surface and further corrosion is inevitable.  Often chrome plate fails by obvious pitting to the steel surface straight away and there is no treatment that will save it.

To give you an idea about how quickly things can go wrong and how the usage changes everything, I can tell you that I sold a nice road racing frame on to a friend of mine. It was about ten years old and had chromed forks. I'd looked after it fairly carefully, and it was in good nick.  He intended to use it as a training bike, to which purpose it was well suited since it had about a 55mm brake drop.

He duly fitted it with P clips and mudguards and used it for a couple of years. He in turn demoted one of his better bikes to training duties and asked me if I'd like the old frame back. Yes, I said, why not? He said "it's not very pretty" and boy he wasn't kidding; the chrome on the forks was completely knackered, with deep rusty pits; I've seen better looking chrome plate that was fifty years old and it went this bad in just two years.

If you are a cleaning and polishing obsessive, never ride in the wet or in the winter when there is salt on the roads etc chrome can be made to last fairly well. But otherwise it just causes problems.

cheers

Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #30 on: 27 February, 2018, 10:52:42 am »
I've seen better looking chrome plate that was fifty years old
50 or 60 years ago, the better bikes were plated multi-layer (copper, nickel, then chrome), and the copper would keep the underlying frame from rusting
Quote
Eventually the chrome rusts. Modern chroming techniques, although conforming to quoted standards, do not include the copper and nickel layers found on older frames. Copper forms a non-porous barrier stopping moisture reaching the steel whereas chrome, being porous allows the steel/water reaction to occur – rusting. The problem now is to remove the rusty mess before it can be resprayed or, if you have not learnt your lesson, rechromed. There are reverse chemical /electrical methods of removal but usually a big nasty-looking file is used. If the chrome is not totally removed it will continue to flake after painting, taking new paint with it.
Tony Oliver book Touring Bikes 

Re: Blodwyn Again !
« Reply #31 on: 27 February, 2018, 11:25:18 am »
modern chroming techniques are different for several reasons; firstly they no longer use hexavalent chrome salts in the process (good thing too, they are proven mutagens) and secondly the expectation is that anything chromed on a bike is only to last a short while anyway; cheap bike parts are the ones most often chromed and they don't last long at all so the plating isn't expected to either.

They had a wobbly phase just after the old processes got banned and they were still finding their way for sure. But today you can produce a good quality, durable chrome plate using modern techniques but to do so is simply very expensive.  The corrosion protection originates in the nickel plating; the chrome itself is only  few microns thick to give the shine, and does little for corrosion protection by itself.  The Ni won't stick without Cu beneath, that is the only reason the Cu layer is there.

 All this talk that 'modern chrome hasn't got enough layers in it' is nonsense; they just save money by making the Ni layer very thin in many cases. Good quality chrome plate has a much thicker layer of Ni and in the case of the best possible plating they polish the steel to a mirror finish before plating, put Cu and (several) Ni layers on, then polish the Ni to a mirror finish before flashing the chrome over the top of it. This extra Ni polishing stage is required for the best results because the Ni plate process shows every blemish in the surface tenfold; the thicker the Ni plate, the stronger this effect is.

 To get chromework done to this standard is very labour intensive indeed, and therefore expensive. Go to a good plating shop and talk to them about what is possible; do however bear in mind that they are very good on car bumpers etc, and are less used to plating high strength thin-walled steel parts, that are susceptible to hydrogen cracking. They probably won't even know what hydrogen cracking is, in fact.

cheers