flippy-floppery

[Chris S]

how quick/easy is it to flip mid ride? Never had a flip flop hub before but considering one for the n+1 planned shortly.

The experts can do it without turning the bike over and making it look like you have a puncture. I am not an expert.

[Zoidburg]

It depends on the length of the track end and the disparity between the two sprockets, you can always carry extra link but thats a bit fiddly on the go.

[border-rider]

Am I correct in thinking that, even if one does not flip, a double-fixed (or a fixed / free for that matter) hub makes for a stronger wheel than a single-sided hub?

Shouldn't make any difference; the flanges are usually symmetrical even on a single-sided hub

[Sergeant Pluck]

Am I correct in thinking that, even if one does not flip, a double-fixed (or a fixed / free for that matter) hub makes for a stronger wheel than a single-sided hub?

Shouldn't make any difference; the flanges are usually symmetrical even on a single-sided hub

Is that the case with Phil Wood hubs?

[border-rider]

It depends on the length of the track end and the disparity between the two sprockets, you can always carry extra link but thats a bit fiddly on the go.

Yep

It's sometimes worth the effort if you're running a smallish chainring - with a 40 or 42 a couple of teeth at the back can be significant.  More than a few teeth may be beyond what the dropout can take

[border-rider]

Is that the case with Phil Wood hubs?

Looking at Spocalc, possibly not

My Royce is symmetrical though

[Tewdric]

Am I correct in thinking that, even if one does not flip, a double-fixed (or a fixed / free for that matter) hub makes for a stronger wheel than a single-sided hub?

Shouldn't make any difference; the flanges are usually symmetrical even on a single-sided hub

Is that the case with Phil Wood hubs?

No, they're the exception.  Mine is a single fixed rear and there is a slight dish, but not as much as you get with a geared rear.  

If you're going to upgrade your fixie wheels, you could always have a trip down here and I'll help you build them.  

[Sergeant Pluck]

A not-very-thorough Google suggests that the Royce track hub is also very slightly asymmetrical, although you can get away with one length of spoke.

If you're ging to upgrade your fixie wheels, you could always have a trip down here and I'll help you build them

Hi Tewdric - that's a very kind offer. I wish I had the time and proximity to take advantage of it 

I do indeed intend to upgrade the rear hub to begin with - when this will occur I do not know. First stage: choose hub. I am leaning towards Phil but I do prefer a nutted axle. White Industries track hub therefore appeals (love those bronze track nuts) but 1) they say chainline is 40 mm and 2) I'm not convinced that I want to be stuck with proprietary splined sprockets. Thus, Royce enters the picture. But I don't think titanium is a good material for axles or spindles...

As you can tell, the upgrade will not happen anytime soon... 

[Tewdric]

Goldtech are well worth considering too. 

[border-rider]

Thus, Royce enters the picture. But I don't think titanium is a good material for axles or spindles...

Standard Royce hubs don't have a Ti axle - or at least, mine doesn't

I would say that with a 130 OLN, the LH side spacer is very long.  It looks a bit strange.

[Sergeant Pluck]

Standard Royce hubs don't have a Ti axle - or at least, mine doesn't

Their website is a little unclear on that (to me, at least) as near the top of the page it mentions ti spindles but makes no mention of other materials. Very short on detail really. Is the chainline 42 mm ish?

[Attitudeless Badger]

Thanks folks.  It appears to be a straightforward thing to do (providing you have the right tools, etc) 

[Crumbling Nick]

Flipping is quick & easy if you have the right dropouts. The old Campag items on my hack have enough length to cope with 18t to 22t (just) sprockets with the same chain. The derailleur hanger is a convenient hook for the chain while the wheel is being removed.

Dunno about track ends: I consider them obselete technology for road use.

[L CC]

how quick/easy is it to flip mid ride? Never had a flip flop hub before but considering one for the n+1 planned shortly.

The experts can do it without turning the bike over and making it look like you have a p*nct*r*. I am not an expert.

Didn't you accidentally flip one time when p¥nct¥r€ repairing? Or am I mis-remembering?

[Chris S]

how quick/easy is it to flip mid ride? Never had a flip flop hub before but considering one for the n+1 planned shortly.

The experts can do it without turning the bike over and making it look like you have a p*nct*r*. I am not an expert.

Didn't you accidentally flip one time when p¥nct¥r€ repairing? Or am I mis-remembering?

 

I couldn't work out why my chain had oddly changed length as a result of a puncture. It was only once I was underway again and noticed the difference in gearing that I realised what I'd done. Sigh...

[Manotea]

Both my fixed rear wheels are fixed/fixed hubs. I don't bother with SS.

But there aren't any hills in London

I know, it takes about an hour minimum to get to anything worth calling a hill (I'm guessing my nearest "hill" is White Down which is 1km of 18%).

I'm about to switch to 42x13 (80") for Richmond Park laps. If Mohammad cannot go to the mountain...

[itsbruce]

Dunno about track ends: I consider them obselete technology for road use.

But.. but... Campag do track ends!  How much more swish can you get?

[daguerrotype]

Both my fixed rear wheels are fixed/fixed hubs. I don't bother with SS.

But there aren't any hills in London

Oh yes there are - try Highgate West Hill for example - I used to train on it

I know, it takes about an hour minimum to get to anything worth calling a hill (I'm guessing my nearest "hill" is White Down which is 1km of 18%).

I'm about to switch to 42x13 (80") for Richmond Park laps. If Mohammad cannot go to the mountain...

[Lazybike]

I flipped the wheel once when a stone found its way into the chainring, and broke the sideplate on a chainlink, bent the link straight and rode home ss..

[rogerzilla]

I used to have an 18T on one side and a 14T on the other in case I had to ride a long way to a TT.  Even used it once for a wet TT in Suffolk, then i found it wasn't much harder just to push the 14T all the way.

The problem with having a fixed-free arrangement is that the chainline is never right on both sides, freewheels being a bit wide.  Optimise for the fixed side; the freewheel has a bit of play and can align itself and run silently with a chainline that is a few mm off.

[rogerzilla]

Goldtech are well worth considering too.

But IME they don't stand up to road salt, even the black painted ones.  Mine crumbled on the non-drive side (the drive side was oily enough to protect it) after about three winters.    Ok for summer use.

[tatanab]

Still using my mid 70s Le Tour double fixed.  30 years ago I had a 19 on one side as a summer gear (69) and a 20 on the other side as a winter gear (65), then I realised I only used the 20.  These days it has the 20 still, and on the other side a 17 from the last time I rode a short time trial for a chuckle.  The only time I turned a wheel around mid ride was during a very windy tour of mid Wales where I fitted a 22 (58") for the windy sections, 20 for the rest of the trip.

[Ian H]

I've always used a double-fixed 17/18. Swapped to the 18 two or three years ago for a hilly North Devon ride and didn't switch back until after I set off one day about a year ago from home. Up the first hill and:-

- Road's a bit slippy.
- Blimey!
- It doesn't look that slippery.
- Why am I pedalling and going nowhere?

So I turned the wheel round and continued. Finally rebuilt the wheel with a new hub last month. It's back on the 17 at the mo.

[Chris N]

Goldtech are well worth considering too.

But IME they don't stand up to road salt, even the black painted ones.  Mine crumbled on the non-drive side (the drive side was oily enough to protect it) after about three winters.    Ok for summer use.

Whereas mine was just fine after four years use (including winters) and 15000 miles.  Still going strong with Adamski, AFAIK.

[Crumbling Nick]

Likewise mine, which has been through 9 winters & 46 000 miles (still on the original bearings).