Tuesday
Up over a short climb on the other side of the valley, then through the villages of Colle di Val d'Elsa and San Gimignano. Google these names and you'll read about unspoiled medieval towns, but my mind interpreted the irregular floodlit buildings as the product of modern architecture gone mad. I must go back and see them in daylight some time.
So I did. Last week. And this time, I took a camera.
But this was no 1000-miles-in-5-days job, this was comparative luxury, 5 days cycling, about 60 km per day, with sag/baggage wagon, hotels, long evening meals in cosy
ristoranti, fine Tuscan food and of course, (even for a habitual non-drinker like me), then finest Chiantis.
We met up in Florence - there were 16 of us, 8 M & 8 F. Nationalitywise we were 3 Canadians, 2 Irish, 1 Manxman and 9 English. We got to know each other in a small eatery near the Santa Croce , then split up for an evening stroll round the centre of the city.
Like most of the group, I couldn't be bothered with taking my own bike, so hired one there
Some people had taken their own saddles, but my only customisation was my bagman and saddlebag. I did regret not taking my own pedals, though. SPDs would have been more comfortable.
Next day the cycling began after Mr Larrington's chum Miles (Mr Kingcycle) had fixed his puncture
and we headed out of Florence, climbing and stopping for the standard view over the city
then making our way out into the countryside.
A long lunch was taken at Greve in Chianti
,
but disaster struck soon afterwards. Steven, our Manxman, didn't quite make it round a bend and crashed into the rock at the side of the road.
He was in a lot of pain, having broken 3 broken ribs, as well as damaging a lung, and spent the rest of the week in hospital in Florence.
There was a final long climb up to Castellina in Chianti, and we arrived at our villa in good time, but not before I had spotted the link with my previous visit to the town - the route arrows for the 1001 Miglia Italia.
On my previous visit I'd had a quick slice of takeaway pizza, but this time I enjoyed a 4-course meal, including a filling
ribolletta and some wild boar I couldn't finish.
Every town we stayed at was on the top of a hill, so every day ended with a climb and started with a descent. The following day started with a winding 18 km descent, and I was determined to take it as slowly as possible to take photos and enjoy the views. Like this:
and this:
and this:
.
The others were also keen to get photos:
.
Eventually we saw the towers of S Gimignano in the distance
(but only after I'd pointed out to anyone who'd listen a patch of grass on which I'd slept in August).
We had a couple of hours to wander round the town and climb the campanile.
And eat world-champion
gelato.
On our way back we had our first experience of the
strade bianche and a lovely sunset
on the climb back to Castellina.
Next day took us south to Siena, much of it on the 1001 Miglia route, for coffee at Gaiole in Chanti
At one point I spotted an old washery where I'd cooled my feet in the 42-degree heat* two months previously, so I re-enacted the scene for the cameras.
Then through Vertine:
Our guide for the first part of the week was Andrea, who had ridden the
l'Eroica cyclosportif earlier in the month. I think I've persuaded him to ride PBP in 2011.
.
The next day was cycling-free and we were free to do what we liked in Siena:
Siena is a fine city, but a day was long enough for me, so I was glad to get on the bike again next day. The landscape south of Siena was much more bare,
and it wasn't as sunny as the first part of the week, but the towns (even the lunchtime ones) were still on the tops of hills
That night's stop was at Montalcino, famous for its Brunallo wines
.
Our final day's riding took us via Pienza (on a hill) to Montepulciano (what do you expect with a name beginning Monte-?).
Before our flight left from Pisa, we had a chance to get a bus into town to see the Almost Vertical Tower of Pisa.
A fine way to spend a week, a nice bunch of people, and an antidote to bashing out the miles.
More photos
here*temperature inflation: I remember at the time of the 1001 Miglia that someone said it was 39 degrees, I since read an Italian account of the ride which said it was 41 degrees, and the farmer I met last week insisted it had been
quarantedue gradi. Anyway, it was hot.