Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: toontra on 19 August, 2019, 04:46:34 pm
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The cable snapped inside my right (rear) Ultegra 6700 shifter, not for the first time. This time, however, the end seems to have tangled inside the mechanism and the lever won't shift down enough to let me see and remove it.
It's only clicking down 4 times before sticking, and from that point there's nothing visible to grab onto - not even a strand of frayed wire.
I can't see any obvious way of removing bits to access that area. I've flooded it with WD40 and oil but no improvement. Any suggestions gratefully received!
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Shove a bit of cable in from the other end and push it out
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Can't see an easy way to get a cable in from that side (i.e. the "wrong" side).
EDIT: Maybe getting mixed up - I'll try from the right side!
EDIT: Tried that - nothing budging.
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If it's anything like the 105 5700 shifters I've got there should be a small panel on the inboard side that you can unscrew to pull the cable out. I've had to deal with this numerous times...
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I did a bit of reading and apparently with the 6700 there isn't a removable panel - that was brought in with later models (it's a bloody good idea, though!)
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I had a similar problem a years or so ago.
Working on the principle that there was something that had moved somewhere it shouldn't be (obviously!), I resorted to repeated but gently waggling alternated with generous doses of GT85 (probably better than WD40 as it's lubrication you're looking for).
Eventually the errant bit of cable/nipple dropped into its proper place and was then easily extracted.
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That was my thinking, Dave, but 5 days of repeated oiling (with various lubricants) and jiggling have achieved nothing, sadly.
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if the cable has broken then either the frayed cable end or the nipple will protrude from the cable take-up drum and will most likely be the thing that is stopping the drum from turning.
It may be possible to poke something into the mechanism and force the cable drum round if it is just the frayed end of the cable that is fouling, but if the drum comes to a hard stop it is more likely that the nipple is poking out of the drum and this is stopping the thing from rotating, which is more serious.
I have known folk scrap shifters off with faults of this type. With earlier STIs I know how to fix them if they get this fault, but with early 10s ones I don't.
cheers
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I've tried poking the mechanism to gently force it round but no joy. It looks like I'm probably going to have to scrap the lever just because of a common problem but that is the conclusion I'm coming to. An expensive fail!
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I get the broken cable issue with lots of levers - as suggested poking about with a pointed tool (I usually use an engineer's scribing tool) is usually successful [I've not failed .... yet]
Tip: Taking the lever off the bars and removing the hood completely gives you much more scope to see what's wrong and how you might tease out the nipple and stub end of cable.
Rob
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Sympathies. I've had that with 105 10spd and Ultegra 11spd and felt very lucky to have managed to winkle the bits out. It's like picking a lock with the added threat of expense to make things interesting. Plus the embarrassment of not having caught it sooner.
Good luck.
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Thanks all. I've given up. Had it off the bars for a couple of days and fiddled around endlessly. There's no budging it and nothing to grab onto so I've admitted defeat.
Anybody got a 6700/6703 right (or pair) of levers they want to sell? (see "Wanted" also!).
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I get the broken cable issue with lots of levers - as suggested poking about with a pointed tool (I usually use an engineer's scribing tool) is usually successful [I've not failed .... yet]
Tip: Taking the lever off the bars and removing the hood completely gives you much more scope to see what's wrong and how you might tease out the nipple and stub end of cable.
Rob
+1 for the scriber. Worked for me.
Whereabouts are you? Never one to shy away from a challenge like this I'd happily have a poke around for you - no guarantees ;)
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I get the broken cable issue with lots of levers - as suggested poking about with a pointed tool (I usually use an engineer's scribing tool) is usually successful [I've not failed .... yet]
Tip: Taking the lever off the bars and removing the hood completely gives you much more scope to see what's wrong and how you might tease out the nipple and stub end of cable.
Rob
Would you believe it - I've had 3 - yes THREE - people in the shop this morning with cables frayed inside the levers requiring extensive digging (one old-ish Ultegra, one 105 and another unnamed on a Halfords low-end road-bike) - 100% success in removal :thumbsup:
Rob
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I'm tempted to ask if I could send it to you, Rob, and see if you can work your magic ;)
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I'm tempted to ask if I could send it to you, Rob, and see if you can work your magic ;)
If you think it's worth the postage both ways I'd give it a go - PM ?
Rob
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^^
If otherwise it's scrap that has got to be a good idea.
Otherwise threaten extreme violence, even if it doesn't persuade the beast to see reason it calms the nerves :demon:
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Otherwise threaten extreme violence, even if it doesn't persuade the beast to see reason it calms the nerves :demon:
I've given it a few "taps" but resisted anything stronger - just ;)
PM sent to Rob and fingers crossed!
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And people think electronic shifting is a liability...
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I've managed to extract this
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3355/3329192918_7cc1f85a18_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/65bZ4U) (https://flic.kr/p/65bZ4U) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jurekb/)
From a Sora lever
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3642/3329193030_871c42d84b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/65bZ6Q) (https://flic.kr/p/65bZ6Q) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jurekb/)
But can confirm that it wasn't straightforward.
Failure was not an option.