Checking a Dyno light before making a return

[fd3]

I have had B&M IQX for three months, but it has now stopped switching on.  Other than checking the cables, unplugging and plugging it in again, what should I check before I make a (angry) return?

[Kim]

Try switching it on with the wheel in motion.  There's a known fault (that may have been re-defined as intentional behaviour).

[fd3]

Yeah, tried to turn it on as I cycled along, a number of times. 
I didn't realise that it should turn on after the capacitor is charged - though I generally leave it overnight, so it should have discharged.

[Kim]

Yeah, tried to turn it on as I cycled along, a number of times. 
I didn't realise that it should turn on after the capacitor is charged - though I generally leave it overnight, so it should have discharged.

If you turn the light off manually before the standlight runs out, there should be loads of charge left to turn it back on again without the wheel turning.  (Obviously there'll be some leakage, but it should last days if not weeks.)


TBH, the whole soft on/off switch thing is a work of Stan, and a simple physical switch where you can tell the state just by looking at it is a superior user interface.  I expect the soft switch is cheaper to manufacture, particularly in a waterproof way.

[andrew_s]

I take it you've tried another front light, and without the rear light connected at the IQ-X end?
In addition, some dynohubs are grounded to the frame on one side, so if there's a break in the insulation on the wrong wire, the hub could be shorted. Try spinning the wheel in a workstand (or bike upside down), with the cable not touching the bike other than at the plug.

[fd3]

Tried it running off another Dino light with no change.  Will try without the rear light.
Agree on the push button switch; I was luered in by the 100 lux but in hindsight the cyo would have been better.