Author Topic: Ready the flashing lights, party poppers, dancing girls and brass band...  (Read 86294 times)

Tim

Front wheel mudguards are utterly unnecessary provided you ride in a straight line (adjusted for crosswind) such that the plumes behind the front wheels pass you by on either side. With two front wheels one of them will pass through puddles when the roads are wet.

Biggest advantage of a 26" wheel is standardising of gears. Otherwsie 9 toothed sprockets and 60 tooth chainrings start appearing at extra cost whenever you need to replace drivetrain components. Assess the gear range wanted and figure out whether that +10% (or some margin for error as it becomes more apparent what is actually used in practice) can be covered with a 20" wheel using standard cassette and chainrings.

Frankly jacking up the rear end by a few inches (if the rear end does not adjust the axle height) is unlikely to make much difference, being able to carry just one size of spare tube is handy, folding smaller (I assume the 20" version does) could be an advantage, but that and weight are more likely to be influenced by whatever else you choose to attach.

Aesthetics - wheel sizes matters! (see our tandem for our commitment to such things) and as it's a lot of money for something you're going to care about make sure that you are happy about these things.

I would not put kojaks on the front wheels of a trike if you don't like replacing them regularly, trike wheels chew through rubber at a frightening rate and kojaks aren't an exceptionally hard (wearing) compound. I caveat that with I'm used to the wear rate of a 'cheetah which is notoriously bad when flung around.

Charlotte

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I think keeping the vehicle easy-rolling is quite important for someone who is only just getting into things - so maybe avoid Marathon Plus.

Yeah.  M+ are also relatively heavy, and avoiding gratuitous extra weight is desirable for making it easier to lift.  But obviously puncture resistance is paramount if she's going to struggle to fix it herself.  While I expect she'll mostly ride with others, it'll inevitably happen when she's on her own in the pissing rain.

Good tyres and a can of evil slime in the panniers?

You'd be surprised how far you can manage to ride a trike on flat tyres anyway.  I ought to tell you about the time I bumped into Cycleman on the Uxbridge Road.  He had two flat tyres and a pile of busted spokes and about 25 miles left to go (he'd ridden from central London already).

His bumping into the only person in the vicinity with a bunch of short spokes in her spares box was rather fortunate...
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I think keeping the vehicle easy-rolling is quite important for someone who is only just getting into things - so maybe avoid Marathon Plus.

Yeah.  M+ are also relatively heavy, and avoiding gratuitous extra weight is desirable for making it easier to lift.  But obviously puncture resistance is paramount if she's going to struggle to fix it herself.  While I expect she'll mostly ride with others, it'll inevitably happen when she's on her own in the pissing rain.

Good tyres and a can of evil slime in the panniers?

You'd be surprised how far you can manage to ride a trike on flat tyres anyway.  I ought to tell you about the time I bumped into Cycleman on the Uxbridge Road.  He had two flat tyres and a pile of busted spokes and about 25 miles left to go (he'd ridden from central London already).

His bumping into the only person in the vicinity with a bunch of short spokes in her spares box was rather fortunate...
Yeah but he rides everywhere like that ;D.
Quote from: Kim
^ This woman knows what she's talking about.

clarion

  • Tyke
If you ride behind Cycleman and pick up the parts which drop off, you could build yourself a Trice before long.
Getting there...

Kim

  • Timelord
    • Fediverse
Good tyres and a can of evil slime in the panniers?

We covered this on Tuesday: Evil slime goes in the tyres, where it stands a chance of doing some good while there's still air in the tyre to make it work, not the panniers where it just adds weight.  Hate the stuff myself, but then I'm capable of changing a tube without pain injury serious problems.  On a related note, barakta-friendliness appears to be a killer application for both CO2 and bonkers demented-chainsaw Cyclaire pumps.


Quote
You'd be surprised how far you can manage to ride a trike on flat tyres anyway.  I ought to tell you about the time I bumped into Cycleman on the Uxbridge Road.  He had two flat tyres and a pile of busted spokes and about 25 miles left to go (he'd ridden from central London already).

You have.  Or at least someone has.  Regulator, maybe?

But yes, fair point.  A trike can get away with much lower tyre pressures too, so there's more bung-some-air-in-it-and-limp-somewhere-sensible potential.


Quote
His bumping into the only person in the vicinity with a bunch of short spokes in her spares box was rather fortunate...

I've said this before, but short spokes (especially the really short ones you need when there's a funky hub involved) should be zip-tied to a convenient bit of bike and forgotten about, as well as in the spares box.  Some things are too small, light and just plain unobtanium *not* to carry, even if you haven't got a clue what to do with them yourself.

andygates

  • Peroxide Viking
I've only had one ride onna trice, but it was Reg's little lovely and it was rainy and it was an accidental century (!) so there were *hours* of rain -- and I would have been a very bedraggled badger indeed if it didn't have front mudguards. 
It takes blood and guts to be this cool but I'm still just a cliché.
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If inner tube replacement proves to be an insurmountable issue, you may want to consider Solid tyres, although whether they will stay reliably seated on a trike (with higher side forces) I know not.  I imagine you could contact them and ask whether they're suitable for trikes.

Front mudguards are probably a good idea.  I remember cycling my old Trice in the rain, when there was no option for mudguards, and the plume of water from the front wheels ended up pooling in my lap!
Actually, it is rocket science.
 

Marathon Supremes, I have been through thorns/broken glass etc etc and the fairy was wonderfully absent, they are easy to fit/get on and off, the perfect solution in fact, do get front guards they are essential
                                                                ;D

If inner tube replacement proves to be an insurmountable issue, you may want to consider Solid tyres, although whether they will stay reliably seated on a trike (with higher side forces) I know not.  I imagine you could contact them and ask whether they're suitable for trikes.

Front mudguards are probably a good idea.  I remember cycling my old Trice in the rain, when there was no option for mudguards, and the plume of water from the front wheels ended up pooling in my lap!
The problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so sure of themselves, and wiser men so full of doubt.

Kim

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Okay, barakta's just changed the front tyre (replacing no-name cheese with a part-worn regular Marathon) on my folding BSO which I've been failing to get round to for ages.  She just barely managed it, needing to use a lever (I don't have a VAR one, unfortunately, but I'm sure that would have helped) to get the final bit of bead onto the rim, and both her hands are now suffering.  I don't rate her ability to do that in the cold, with circulation issues compounding the problem.

Looks like Marathon Pluses with slime, then.  It's the only way to be sure.

I currently use Marathon Supremes on the Kaffenback, and they're pretty good at avoiding the fairy, but I still get occasional visits.  If puncture repair is not an option (and it doesn't sound like it'll be easy), then you want to be as bullet-proof as possible.  Marathon Pluses are likely to be that extra bit more tolerant (and I think even Schwalbe accept that the Supreme isn't quite as abuse proof as the Plus).  Slime should help with the occasional exception, and those even rarer events that exceed it's ability to thwart problems should probably be solvable with a telephone. ;D

Get a Var Lever, it's likely to help (even I've had to resort to using it once!), as is a CO2 inflator (although some sort of pump is also a damned good idea).

Whilst I can see that the Cyclaire may be more suitable for barakta to use, I wasn't that impressed by the one I've got.  The valve end was not very rugged.  I'd be tempted to try and replace it with something after market if possible, although that may compromise the way that the tube folds against the rest of the pump.
Actually, it is rocket science.
 

I know this is the wrong size but do check out the construction  | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com also check out the Schwalbe site, it convinced me and I would not use any other tyre now.  ;D  

(quote author=Kim link=topic=45696.msg908571#msg908571 date=1302200351]


Looks like Marathon Pluses with slime, then.  It's the only way to be sure.
[/quote]
The problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so sure of themselves, and wiser men so full of doubt.

+1 to no tyre being inpenetrable. I thought my Schwalbe Durano Pluses were until I had a chunk of Kent flint cut into one in the wet. On examination the flint was literally like a little sharp stanley knife. There is no way any tyre could fend that off. It is the only visitation I have had in the last 4000 miles though  :-X

The other problem is availability.  Marathon Supremes theoretically exist in a 20" version.

Even the 700C version can be hard to find sometimes (especially in the narrow versions).  I can't find anyone who seems to even offer to sell the 20" Marathon Supreme, let alone have any in stock.

It's relatively easy to find 20" versions of the Marathon Plus.

(The 26" version of the Supreme is about as easy to find as the 700C version, which means if you see them for sell, you buy several, since you know they'll be out of stock shortly. :-\)

Edit:  Actually, I managed to find some 20" ones, but stock seems pretty poor.  Most people don't have any, which makes me suspect those who claim to, are possibly being a little optimistic with the truth.
Actually, it is rocket science.
 

tonycollinet

  • No Longer a western province of Númenor
I have the sprint 2 with rear suspension, rack, mudguards and chain guard.

Suspension:
I went to d-tec with the express intention of finding out if I needed none, rear or full suspension. I didn't need front (doesn't seem to make much difference to me), but rear while not vital makes a big difference. It is more difficult to avoid the potholes on a trike, and the suspension allows you the option of putting a front wheel on either side of a hole, and letting the rear suspension absorb the worst of the shock.

Gearing with the stock setup is not a problem. I've never needed the lowest gear, and haven't got a hill round here I can spin out on in the top gear. I may well go for an alfine 11 when the drive train wears out which would result in a slightly narrower range, probably losing a gear at each end - unless I have a double at the front.


Tyres:
I have supremes on my hybrid, and no punctures in 8000 miles. So I put them on the trike. However, as above, options for avoiding problems are more limited with the three tyre tracks, and I've had two in about 800 miles (803.4 to be precise  ;D). One was a thorn, and the other a shard of glass. The tyres are a reasonably easy fit on the rims though, and I can fit them without levers. Definately get a VAR lever for Barakta.

Mudguards:
If you don't have them, Barakta's going to get very wet in the rain. Water sprays off radially from the tyres, and the rider is very close to the wheels. A slight turn of the weels, will give you a facefull, as will a side wind. I also went for the quick release kit so I can take them off easily if the forecast is dry. Although it is not much quicker than using a hex key - just tool free.

Kim

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If puncture repair is not an option (and it doesn't sound like it'll be easy), then you want to be as bullet-proof as possible.  Marathon Pluses are likely to be that extra bit more tolerant (and I think even Schwalbe accept that the Supreme isn't quite as abuse proof as the Plus).  Slime should help with the occasional exception, and those even rarer events that exceed it's ability to thwart problems should probably be solvable with a telephone. ;D

I agree.  I've had very few punctures on regular marathons, but this is a belt and braces job.

Telephones are of course a sticky issue, but we do at least live in The Future, where we have mobiles that can access an assortment of text-based media, some of which include handy geotagging capabilities, from wherever.  And she can always dial someone to get their attention and wait for them to SMS back...


Quote
Get a Var Lever, it's likely to help (even I've had to resort to using it once!), as is a CO2 inflator (although some sort of pump is also a damned good idea).

CO2 was a given, and yes, it sounds like a VAR lever would be a wise investment (if there are going to be Marathon Plusses around, I may need it).


Quote
Whilst I can see that the Cyclaire may be more suitable for barakta to use, I wasn't that impressed by the one I've got.  The valve end was not very rugged.  I'd be tempted to try and replace it with something after market if possible, although that may compromise the way that the tube folds against the rest of the pump.

I'm not overly enamoured with the valve end either, though I find it's far worse for Schrader than it is for Presta.  I've not really had a problem using it, though it might make sense to stick a more barakta-friendly head on the tube.


Kim

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Front wheel mudguards are utterly unnecessary provided you ride in a straight line (adjusted for crosswind) such that the plumes behind the front wheels pass you by on either side. With two front wheels one of them will pass through puddles when the roads are wet.

I've only had one ride onna trice, but it was Reg's little lovely and it was rainy and it was an accidental century (!) so there were *hours* of rain -- and I would have been a very bedraggled badger indeed if it didn't have front mudguards. 

If you don't have them, Barakta's going to get very wet in the rain. Water sprays off radially from the tyres, and the rider is very close to the wheels. A slight turn of the weels, will give you a facefull, as will a side wind. I also went for the quick release kit so I can take them off easily if the forecast is dry. Although it is not much quicker than using a hex key - just tool free.

...That's all looking pretty conclusive then.  Maybe I should ask Simon Legg in the interests of getting a balanced view?   ;D

Kim

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* Kim waves to Kevin

(I'll call you back in a minute  :D )

tonycollinet

  • No Longer a western province of Númenor
Another wave to Kevin  :thumbsup:

Okay, barakta's just changed the front tyre (replacing no-name cheese with a part-worn regular Marathon) on my folding BSO which I've been failing to get round to for ages.  She just barely managed it, needing to use a lever (I don't have a VAR one, unfortunately, but I'm sure that would have helped) to get the final bit of bead onto the rim, and both her hands are now suffering.  I don't rate her ability to do that in the cold, with circulation issues compounding the problem.

Looks like Marathon Pluses with slime, then.  It's the only way to be sure.

I like to point out that folding Marathon Racers or Kojaks are *a lot* easier to fit than threaded Marathon (Pluse)s.
The other week I needed technique and levers to remove Marathon Pluses 35-349 from my Brompton. I didn't need levers putting the 32-349 folding Kojaks on.
Forgive me Father, for I have sinned. It has been too many days since I have ridden through the night with a brevet card in my pocket...

Kim

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(I'll call you back in a minute  :D )

Lots of good advice there that's broadly in line with our current thoughts on the subject of 26" hardtail vs 20" rear suspension and sensible tyre choice.  The only moderately silly suggestion of carrying a whole spare wheel.  And some discussion of that money stuff that's best not thought about too hard.

 :thumbsup:

andygates

  • Peroxide Viking
Don't forget good tubes.  Schwalbe are lovely.  The standard bike-shop Specialized tubes have a distressing habit of valve separation -- not only a flat, but an irreparable one! >:(

What is the puncture situation with trikes, anyway?  Much less weight on each tyre...
It takes blood and guts to be this cool but I'm still just a cliché.
OpenStreetMap UK & IRL Streetmap & Topo: ravenfamily.org/andyg/maps updates weekly.

(I'll call you back in a minute  :D )

Lots of good advice there that's broadly in line with our current thoughts on the subject of 26" hardtail vs 20" rear suspension and sensible tyre choice.  The only moderately silly suggestion of carrying a whole spare wheel.  And some discussion of that money stuff that's best not thought about too hard.

 :thumbsup:
Presumably the whole spare wheel idea would make the 20" rear tyre the best?
Quote from: Kim
^ This woman knows what she's talking about.

Kim

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It would pretty much guarantee it was the rear that punctured, anyway...

What is the puncture situation with trikes, anyway?  Much less weight on each tyre...

Yeah, but also 50% more tyre, and 300% more tracks to pick up punctury stuff. I hear velomobile riders most often have the bank side front tyre punctured. Which is the right here on the continent, but presumably the front left in your place.
Forgive me Father, for I have sinned. It has been too many days since I have ridden through the night with a brevet card in my pocket...

redshift

  • High Priestess of wires
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Nearside wheel punctures are what I've had on Speedy.  I'm currently nursing the last of my Vredestein S-licks, which have been much less prone to punctures than the Contis which were standard.  When they've worn out, I'll probably end up with Duranos or some such.  I'd prefer a 406-25 or 28, rather than 406-35 (or 47!) but they're few and far between, and even when companies make them, as mentioned above, no bugger sells them.
L
:)
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