Yet Another Cycling Forum
Random Musings => DIY => Skip Bike and Bodge It => Topic started by: Jock Stewart on 31 May, 2017, 11:47:19 am
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Hi
I have a 2015 Specialised Langster.
https://www.evanscycles.com/specialized-langster-2015-track-bike-EV193916
I've done about 12k miles on it over two years, all fixed. All parts are as spec except for rear wheel, tyres and cog - Alu frame/carbon drop handlebars. I was thinking of buying a new more-geared bike but have decided to stay fixed and to upgrade what I have.
I have only basic bike maintenance skills so asking for advice here.
I want to change the handlebars for carbon bulls with brakes at the end. Is this a straightforward skill for me to learn and do myself? If so, any like-for-like recommendations for the parts?
I'm guessing I should also replace chain, rear cog and chainring. I can do this myself but, again, recommendations for like-for-like parts welcome!
I've only had one major problems with the bike - the crankset on both sides came off last year! The thread the bottom bracket screws into see ruined as a result. I took it to The Bike Hub in Hounslow who were then able to drill me a new thread. However, they did not put loctite on as they had none! I wasn't complaint as they did the work for me free of charge. Will this be a major issue going forward?
Thanks in advance
Jock
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Carbon bullhorns are a simple swap. Make sure you get either a stem that matches your bar choice or a bar that matches the existing stem!
Bar end brake levers should be plug and play too. Something like Cane Creek 200TT would work well, don't forget to get new brake cables and outers plus tape. The only tools you will need are 4 & 5mm hex keys, cable cutters and pliers.
Regards the BB, if the threads have been recut/chased correctly then threadlock is not required. If the BB should strip again when/if you need to change it a threadless conversion would work as long as you can get the correct length. ISTR 103mm is the original but 107 would work too without compromising the chainline too much.
The only other thing that may cause you a problem is the faceplates that protect the rear dropouts. Overtightening the wheel nuts chews them up but replacements are available through Specialized dealerships and they're not expensive.
HTH
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Thank you.
That is immensely helpful.
I appreciate the free advice and hope to pay back.
Cheers
Jock
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I'd suggest you might want to get a torque key/wrench for doing up the carbon bullhorns. If you crank everything up until you can't turn it any more (many people's approach to steel/alu parts) then you can squish the carbon, which can then fail when least expected.