Cladding Shed Workshop

[MacB]

So I've shortened my workshop and built a new end wall and begun replacing the frontage. Construction is basic, timber studwork with OSB sheeting fitted to outside, both sitting on either brick or concrete block, outer edges lined up. My next step is cladding and I'm a little confused/uncertain:-

1. do I need to put a membrane on the OSB before the cladding battens? This is not going to a warm/insulated structure, around the roof edges there will be air gaps.

2. depending on 1 I've either membraned then battened the OSB or just battened, question, what spacing on the vertical battens? I do intend for them to extend below the OSB down the brick/block and not quite reaching the ground.

3. my vertical battens are now fitted so it's time for horizontal cladding are these any good?:-
http://www.diy.com/departments/timber-cladding-smooth-cladding-t75mm-w95mm-l2400mm-pack-of-10/1345776_BQ.prd
if not any suggestions, maybe something that doesn't need treating/painting?

4. I've chosen my cladding but what about length and cuts? I have one side to do that's a bit over 3m should I use 1.8m or 2.4m lengths or doesn't it matter?

5. Whichever is chosen in 4 should I alternate the cut ends so that the joints aren't lined up, like brickwork?

6. There will still be joins and corners, I will use corner pieces but should I also use sealant or sealing tape on the edges/joins?

Any other advice corrections will be welcome...thanks

Oh and I have watched some shed building vids but they seem to be mainly US and use massive timber, nail guns and it's all a bit too professional and not DIY enough.

[mrcharly-YHT]

I'm sure someone more professional than me will chime in, but my 2cents worth is this:

Line up the joins and then you want a vertical strip covering the joint. Seal all sawn ends.

IF you can afford it, buy tanalised timber like this:
https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/timber/softwood/cladding/view-product/ptgv-tanalised-jointed-25-x-125mm

The untreated b&q stuff you linked to will require treating inside and out to prevent rotting, that will cost you quite a bit of time and money for the treatment.

You have to decide whether to nail on or screw on the boards. Cordless drills are so good and turbo screws so fast I favour screws, but do drill holes to minimise risk of splitting. You know where the holes need to go so having cut a stack of boards to length you should be able to drill a stack at one go, then it will be easy to put them up. That will also ensure the screws are all in the same place and look neater.

[MacB]

Good ideas thank you, especially pre-drilling the cladding, obvious now you've said it but I'd never have got there on my own. So following your comment and some more research I realise that the cheapo untreated B&Q stuff won't cut the mustard. Quite like the look of this:-

https://www.manomano.co.uk/wood-panels-chipboard-4001

or this:-

http://www.shiplaptimber.com/products.php?idcat=1

I can get 3m lengths so no need for joins and will probably get the whole package, batten, fixings, boards and corner trim from the one place. Just need to work out exactly how much I will need to cover the front as well.

My ancient electric screwdriver was never powerful but has finally died on me so today I used my corded drill with the screwdriver bit in it. Did a few tests in some scrap wood first, glad I did, needs a delicate finger. But boy did it make fixing the OSB to the frame fast. It's not ideal but I'm not going to go and buy some fancy cordless driver for a one off project.

[mrcharly-YHT]

Well I'm a huge fan of cordless drills, not least because they prevent a clutz like me from overtightening things.

Well worth seeing if you can borrow one, IMO. You aren't in York, are you?

[Aunt Maud]

You shouldn't need the membrane and 600mm spacing for the battens should do.

[MacB]

You shouldn't need the membrane and 600mm spacing for the battens should do.

Thanks