That does look very nice 
. Your head looks to be almost directly above the rear hub. That can lead to a rearward weight bias which can affect handling. At 6'3" (?) there's probably not a lot you can do about that apart from trying the seat in a more upright position. Both on my Paseo and on my P-38 I have notice how the feel of the handling changes with the seat angle.
Yeah, I am noticing the front end is a bit twitchy, especially at low speed or uphill although I am getting used to it. Torque steer seems to be an issue but I'm learning to manage it and not grip the bars too tight in response. As you say though there's not a lot I can do about it other than maybe try a 650b wheel on the front to lower the front end and change the weight distribution a bit.
Weight distribution is not really that much of an issue with recumbents when it comes to steering twitchyness [must be a better word], it has more to do with the relationship between the rake of the front wheel/the headtube angle and the consequent trail [all of which is better understood by doing so research as opposed to me trying to explain it]. But generally speaking - the more trail you have, the greater the sense of self-centring [especially at speed] but the more wheel flop will be apparent - which is the inclination for the bike to lean into a 'turn' once you start cornering. What this means going up a hill is a bike that has a tendency to fall over over more easily because trying to control that sense of wheel flop gets problematic when you're going that much slower - it feels like you're kind of 'fighting' with the steering. A small amount of trail is more likely to give a less stable bike at speed [perfectly safe, but more sensitive], but potentially far more stable when climbing. There may be some twitchiness, but the twitchiness doesn't necessarily mean less stability because there's far less wheel flop - the bike doesn't want to turn into the steering input.
On top of all that, you have distance of the handlebars from the headtube - another factor that can affect handling a lot.
If you change the front wheel this will affect the dynamic of all these things, which will, in turn affect the handling - for better or for worse [very often that latter].
It's kind of complicated geometry because simple formulas don't always translate into what a bike feels like
to you, which is obviously important and like so many things, it's all about compromise and trying out different bikes to see what suits.
One thing I've found quite useful with recumbents is to project yourself forward with the pedals, the front of the bike leads, like the chainset is cutting through the air in front of you, and to pay less attention to what going on with the handlebars. When you're new to recumbents [especially two-wheeled versions] it's easy to get distracted by the movements of the handlebars - sounds a bit odd, but often there's a lot of self-centring that's going on all the time that you just have to let be. Same is true of uprights of course, but it's less obvious. Ride an upright bike and take a look at the front wheel when you're cycling and you will notice it is seldom tracking in a perfectly straight line - the front wheel is constantly moving from left to right in small increments, to keep you upright! Try riding in a perfectly straight line keeping the front wheel locked.....you're not going to get very far!
