Normandy Jaunt - Ride Report

[hatler]

As trailered here, and at long last, this is the report of our recent run to Normandy, a long-awaited cycle tour en famille. (I've been trying to do this for about the last ten years.)

I'm not the wittiest scribe so rather than lovingly crafting a laugh and cry a minute tragi-comedy, I'm simply going to transcribe the daily journal I kept (something I haven't done in about 20 years).

NORMANDY JAUNT

DAY 0
Just back from the Austrian hills with Joe and his Explorer Scout troop. Today I had to prepare bikes and make sure we had all the required docs, maps, accommodation details, etc etc

I’d already done basic bike checks

I allotted one pannier each plus I had ordered a new Ortlieb rack pack which had arrived whilst I was away in Austria. I had to fit the adapter plate to the existing rack so that the rack-pack could be mounted and still allow panniers to be hooked on. Lu and Izzy had packed their panniers whilst I was away so there was still Joe’s and mine to sort out. The rack pack was for documents, tools, spares, locks, punc repair kit, lights etc etc.

By a quirk of happenstance all bikes are 8 speed which at least saves a few grammes in the chain spares packing list !

On the downside, we have three different inner tube versions; Presta 26”, Schraeder 26” and 700x23.

Lu’s bike had a flat (the second in two weeks and only the third since she started cyclo-commuting about eight years ago - so maybe it’s time for new tyres).

The rack pack adapter for my bike blocks the existing rack’s rails, so it comes with rails of its own for panniers, but these are at a different height, so I had to adjust the pannier hooks.

When all was filled I was carrying 36lbs of stuff. Bloody hell - I could hardly pick the back of the bike up.

I took both bikes with panniers for a (very) brief trial ride - up and down our road to see if all was OK (heel clearance was the main concern), and having established that it was, set about the brief packing of the car chore.

Getting four bikes on the Pendle hanging rack is always a challenge, so having had a few goes at getting it right I photographed each stage so that I could re-create the sequence at night (doubtless in the pouring rain), knackered, when we got back to Pompey on our return as quickly as possible.

We left in the rain and it rained all the way to Portsmouth. I dropped Lu, Joe and Izzy at the port and headed for the parking spot, a church in the back streets (booked through Just Park) only half a mile away.

All bikes had lights and we waited patiently in the queue, in the rain, just ahead of a really chatty couple on motorbikes who were heading for a fortnight’s surfing near Bordeaux.





We were then directed to stand in a shelter right alongside where they were inspecting randomly selected cars. But we weren’t allowed to look at what they were doing. (Well don’t put us there then, numpties.) Finally allowed aboard (where I spotted that the bottle cage bolts were loose on Lu’s bike), placed our bikes in the bike bay (was it designed like that I wonder ?) and straight up to our four berth cabin. But where were the other two beds ? There was hardly any floor space as it was. An eagle eyed child spotted the signs on the ceiling where the extra berths pivoted out from.

Ferry set sail at 22.45. We had a quick wander round (and a pot of tea for me, which was something I had been missing as I had been away in Austria for the ten days prior to this), then to bed, ready for a 6.30 wake up call, a 7am cabin clearance and a 7.30 docking.

[bryn]

Sounds "character building", but also a lot of fun and exciting for the kids

Looking forward to the next episode.......

[hatler]

Day 1
06.30  Right on cue, the ship intercom crackled into life. Some fairly anodyne Latin music. Joe accused me of rigging up my iPod to play something really irritating to get them up. Quick brekkie (including a pot of tea) and down to the bikes. The French dawn was clear; not wet, but not sunny either. Allowed off very near the front and headed into Ouistreham taking a right as soon as we could to get us close to the coast as soon as possible.

Wow, a decent following wind ! And it stayed with us all day. Just as well as we had about 35 miles to go. Uncharted territory for Lu and Izzy. It felt like the end of the season (and not August). Nothing stirring, nothing open, not very warm, slightly windswept. Still, we had found a coastal shared use path in front of the enormous houses and we fair rattled along.



History and memorials at every turn of the wheel.


(This gives a good indication as to how much assistance we got from the wind.)




(My father served in the Merchant Navy in WWII, though not until '45.)

Breakfast at a charmant Salon de The in Lion sur Mer with a lovely hostess and wonderful pain au raisin, chocolat and croissants.

Then a stop somewhere (with a port, can't remember where) for a mid-morning snack in a boulangerie with the most fabulous display.


(Edit, this was in Courselles sur Mer.)

More coastal path until Asnelles where we dropped into the HQ for the holiday surprise activity booked for the following day. Char a voiles (land-yachting). We checked in and asked what we needed to bring - nothing special - all the gear is provided. Two very excited children. Straight to a fabulous lunch at Dunes Zen followed by a lie on the grass.

Saddle up and head off westwards again. Through Courselles which was neat and then Arromanches, which wasn’t. First couple of hills just after here. Normally not a bother but I am a bit out of condition (not been commuting to work for a while) and the bike weighs a shed load. Coastal path has disappeared and we find ourselves on the main coastal road, lots of traffic and enough impatient inconsiderate drivers (French included) to make this stretch mildly tiresome and unpleasant. Took a turn to the right onto roads listed in the IGN 1:25000 as “partially maintained” (or was that “infrequently maintained” ?) to get us to the German battery at Longues sur Mer.
(Edit. We passed through Courselles sur Mer before lunch - see above.)





This is visceral history. We still have a few miles to go so we can’t dawdle here too long.






Finally arrived (at 4.30) at Hotel La Cheneviere in Commes. Wow !



All three of them very excited by its having five (yes, FIVE) stars. What a place. Beautiful. An old chateau, it had been the Gestapo’s HQ until the Americans commandeered it for themselves. (The lovely woman working in Reception expressed a little surprise at how much luggage we had on our bikes. “Usually people who cycle here have their bags delivered by a van.”) Swimming pool, tennis court, bike parking, room service, wifi, iPod dock, the works. (To put this into context, we never stay in hotels. The highlight for the children of a recent trip to friends in Athens was when we missed a connecting flight at Frankfurt and had to be put up in a hotel there. I figured that if I was to ensure that my family love cycle-touring, then I would have to provide some comfort at the end of the day.) Izzy was in the dressing gown before we had been shown round the whole suite. A quick dip in the pool and back to the room for a shower. Still no sunshine though, and still not as warm as I had imagined it would be.

We decided against an evening of superfluous excess, and passed on the €100/head evening banquet and instead chose to cycle into Port en Bessin for a slightly sub-standard pizza - but at least the kids were happy.

[hatler]

Day 2
A lazyish day today - and it’s pouring and the forecast is heavy rain all day. A fantastic breakfast spread - v excited children. One complaint though, the grapefruit/orange crusher was a tad noisy. Rather spoilt the ambience.    We filled up (plus) and then delayed the inevitable drenching for as long as we could. Left at 11.50 (ten minutes before we had to be out) - all togged up in waterproofs (though only Joe had waterproof troos).



Within a mile the rain had eased and we were all far too hot (but Joe was dry !!) Waterproofs discarded (all except Izzy) and rain only spitting. Lovely quiet back roads to Bayeux with virtually no traffic.

But what’s that ?  A regular rubbing sound with every turn of Lu’s rear wheel. But it's not a rub, it’s a hiss. Oh my. A puncture. Slow but steady. Not really raining now though the roads are very wet. A slick change. Glass shard easily identified. Izzy helping all the way. Gas cylinder deployed and - HUZZAH - for my first time ever I get a result. Back up and and running within ten minutes. Negotiate the main drag through Bayeux and the half-right turn at the end to take us to Hotel No. 2, Chateau la Belle Fontaine.



Too early to check in but they are happy to look after our bags. A quick change of clothes and straight back into Bayeux where we stumble immediately upon our goal, the tapestry. Wow. Just wow. That’s simply amazing. And hardly a queue as we hit it at lunchtime. Definitely definitely worth a visit (and the wait, I’ve been wanting to come here since I was 15).

Crepes and beers for lunch at a nearby cafe and then return to the hotel for the cab back to Asnelles (annoyingly they didn’t have any free spaces yesterday, and we didn’t fancy cycling all the way back there, and then back again).

Oh dear, all the way to Asnelles, €40 down and there is no wind. Izzy very upset, Joe very disappointed. Lu and Izzy retire to a beachside coffee bar and Joe and I wander down the beach to get a close-up look at some Mulberry Harbour remnants.



After a good mooch on the beach we head back to the coffee bar, hastened by the ever increasing rainfall. By the time we were under cover it had become a full-on tropical downpour. The sky taps stayed open for some time and we hung on, hoping that some wind might be rustled up, but no. We admitted defeat and called our taxi back. We sat marvelling at the rain, and then pondered how he would get to us, given that the approach road was now flooded. It was only up to door sill level, and he made it through. Another €40. Ouch.



By the time we were back there was time for Izzy and me to take advantage of the tennis court before heading into Bayeux for supper. Spoilt for choice, there must be scores, if not hundreds of places to eat. We struck lucky, a fabulous meal and really friendly staff. A bit of a surprise as the town rather does ooze ‘touristy’. A relaxed run back to the hotel and a sit in their bar. Very chilled. Everyone very happy. A lovely end to an easy (but mildly disappointing) day.

[hatler]

Day 3
Another fine breakfast, with the added delight of being able to see our bikes, which are in the lower dining room. The orange juicer is much quieter than in the previous hotel, but, shocker, there are no grapefruits to juice. Some novel things here to keep the children happy (and stuffing their faces); a do it yourself egg boiler, a do it yourself pancake pan, and the usual spread of meats, cheeses, etc etc.

Got our stuff together and prepared for the run back to Ouistreham, via Pegasus Bridge if there is time. We can make the call at Colleville-Montgomery. It’s pretty much a straight run there away from the coast so we’re looking forward to quieter roads. No rain, and, wonderfully, a following wind again. It’s spun round 180 degrees. How cool is that.



It’s not a sprint, nor is it a dawdle, so we’re underway in good time. The sun’s out, it’s warm, the world is beautiful and once again we roll along well. I’m taken by surprise by a woman tending a roadside cross - I thought she was part of the monument until she moved. A heavily built (and tanned) late middle aged shirtless chap is leaning out of a window in a wayside cottage and booms out ‘Bon jour’ to us all. In fact every one acknowledges us. Just lovely.







Just after Reviers we stop for a very sombre wander round the Canadian cemetery. It’s hard for Lu and me to get our heads around the concept of fighting on foreign soil and I’m not sure whether my paltry attempts at trying to explain it to the children sink in or not. Humbling beyond compare. The scale of the waste of life, even in this small cemetery is horrific. We find the Brampton brothers (confirmed by the register in the lodge at the gate - same parents) alongside each other, and countless other souls who all should have had the most amazing ordinary life but for the war. There’s one different headstone to all the maple leaf carvings - a simple cross marking the grave of a Frenchman, in a line alongside all the other Canadian stones. What’s the story ? Perhaps a liaison officer to work with the French speaking Canadians ?

What a waste.

A few miles down the road we stop in Douvres la Delivrande, park the bikes up and join the queue in the town’s boulangerie.



Great tucker. We sit by the church and enjoy watching the world go by. Joe has (another) Orangina, his newly discovered favouritest drink in the world. Lu wanders off to look for a loo, unsuccessfully, and stops in a shop to ask where they are. She’s invited through to the staff loo.

We’re well on schedule so are able to head to Pegasus Bridge at Benouville where we get a beer (and two more Oranginas), I think from Arlette Gondree. The children marvel at the stuff in there. I’m still moved inordinately by it all.



The bridge is raised (causing traffic chaos) and when it’s down we head over the river to see where the gliders landed - how on earth did they manage that at night?



From there it is a straight and short run to the port on a wide riverside shared-use path. Bright sunshine and a following breeze.



But wait !  We haven’t filled up with French goodies to take home with us (not that we have much room). We head to the steeple in Ouistreham and look for a supermarket. No !  All closed. We ask in a boulangerie and are directed a mile and a half back out of town, up hill !  A couple of bottles of pommeau, some chocolate and we’re about full. Joe goes to move my bike and it flops sideways and takes him down. He can’t pick it up.

Back down the hill and into the port where we are directed to the very front of the queue. Izzy overhears someone saying “Oooo, look at those bikes pushing in.”





Lots of cars with bikes on racks, but we are the sole cyclists on this sailing. Up the ramp, park the bikes, find our cabin and dump our bags. I find my way up to the rear sun deck and sit in the sun and read my book. What a glorious day. Izzy and Lu find me and join me as we cast off. As the ferry picks up speed and changes direction the wind picks up, and the crowd thins and Izzy and I are on our own. When a set of chairs blow past we scurry inside and head below.

A flat crossing and into Pompey by 10pm. We are just about the first vehicles off and before we know it we are through Customs, in the car and heading home.

To be repeated !!

[hatler]

APPENDIX
For the record
Lu     Orange P7 - Schwalbe Marathons - Ortlieb Bike-Packer Plus panniers.
Joe    Islabikes Luath 700 (before they did Large and Small versions)
Izzy   Specialized Dolce. Topeak rear rack pack with spare tube and punc repair kit. (She knows how to use it.)
Me     Orange Evo 2 - 2” knobblies (just to make it harder for me !) Two Ortlieb Back-Roller panniers and an Ortlieb Trunk-Bag rack pack.

Full spares list
Bag 1
Inner tubes; 2 x 700s and one each for the 26” wheels
3 x 16g gas cylinders
1 x 25 g gas cylinder
Tyre levers
Pre-glued patches
Hexus multi-tool
Mini adjustable wrench
Mini Swiss army penknife
Mini mole grips
Leatherman Skeleton
Tyre boots

Bag 2
2 x brake cable inners (different ends)
1 x gear cable inner
Spare 8spd chain links
Cable ties
Roll of insulating tape
Bag of various nuts and bolts

(I didn’t include spare cleats or cleat bolts, but only I was running clipless and they’re in good nick.)

[Canardly]

Enjoyed that tremendously thanks. I really want to get over there and do something similar. In fact I may well start plotting that now.

[Ruthie]

Really enjoyed that thanks 

[Torslanda]

What a cracking write up.

Then a stop somewhere (with a port, can't remember where) for a mid-morning snack in a boulangerie with the most fabulous display.

Courseulles-sur-Mer? Lots of mid-rise apartment blocks surrounding a tidal marina and a mental one way system?

Love Normandy, been there nearly every year since our first trip to France in '08. Next year, cidre bouche & Calvados.

And a mea culpa. I forgot to say that most shops - including supermarkets - still close for lunch 

Apropos of not-a-lot; I've never worked out when the tourist 'season' is in Normandy. Usually it's the back end of August that we go and by that time many places are closed. I've also been in June and found many places closed. Go figure . . .

[hatler]

What a cracking write up.

Then a stop somewhere (with a port, can't remember where) for a mid-morning snack in a boulangerie with the most fabulous display.

Courseulles-sur-Mer? Lots of mid-rise apartment blocks surrounding a tidal marina and a mental one way system?

Love Normandy, been there nearly every year since our first trip to France in '08. Next year, cidre bouche & Calvados.

And a mea culpa. I forgot to say that most shops - including supermarkets - still close for lunch 

Apropos of not-a-lot; I've never worked out when the tourist 'season' is in Normandy. Usually it's the back end of August that we go and by that time many places are closed. I've also been in June and found many places closed. Go figure . . .

Thank you.

And yes, you're right, that piccie was in Courselles sur Mer, which means I got my day's sequence slightly wrong. I'll correct that.

And I did manage a glass or two of Calvados, but somehow we never got round to trying any local cider. What a hideous omission - to be rectified.

[sg37409]

Brilliant.   Will be leaving the family computer on this write up in the hope it inspires them as well as me !

[StuAff]

Excellent stuff. Well done Hatlers!

[hatler]

Brilliant.   Will be leaving the family computer on this write up in the hope it inspires them as well as me !

Did it ?

[SoreTween]

Great write up thanks,  looks a blast.  I think I'll follow SGs lead and leave this open for Mrs 'Tween to happen upon.

Don't believe you on the wind turning though.  That. Doesn't. Happen.  Ride in a big circle into the wind all the way - sure.  Wind behind both ways on a linear ride.  Against the laws of nature.  Maxwell's 7th or Plank's 4th law, I forget which.