Garage interior lighting

[Mrs Pingu]

We currently have a bog std pendant light fitting with an LED bulb as our only garage interior lighting.
It's useless. It doesn't matter where we stand we always end up creating a shadow over what we're trying to look at or work on.
So I'm hoping m'learned fomurites can suggest something better. I'm thinking maybe multiple strip lights running along several of the roof joists, maybe something linkable like this, except available here in the UK
https://barrina-led.com/products/pack-of-6-barrina-led-t5-integrated-single-fixture-4ft-2200lm-6500k-super-bright-white-20w-utility-shop-light-ceiling-and-under-cabinet-light-corded-electric-with-built-in-on-off-switch

[Jurek]

Why not a PIR activated flood light, one at each end of the garage - so you're not grappling around for a lightswitch when your hands are full?
I have 3 of what I think are these:
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/timeguard-ledx30pirb-30w-led-pir-black-flood-light
down the side of my house - they're waaaay brighter than you'll need (It's like a football pitch when I go outside at night).
And you'd probably save money by not opting for a water protected lamp.
ETA: those you have linked to are also good - I have them inside a few of my cupboards - operated by a switch which connects when the door is opened.
ETFA - Is the garage interior painted white? That helps an awful lot - without stating the bleedin' obvs.
ETEFA - No reason why the ones you have linked to couldn't be wired to be triggered by a PIR sensor.

[Philip D]

I have a couple of these in my double garage. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-twin-6ft-led-batten-59w-6800lm-220-240v/337pp More than ample. They come with fixings which make them easy to screw to wooden joists.

[Kim]

Why not a PIR activated...

IME the timeout is always approximately equal to the time it takes you, sitting cross-legged on the floor surrounded by pingfuckits, to get to the *really* delicate stage of whatever it is you're fettling.

On average this is still less annoying than having to grope for the light switch when your hands are full and/or dirty.

[Jurek]

Why not a PIR activated...

IME the timeout is always approximately equal to the time it takes you, sitting cross-legged on the floor surrounded by pingfuckits, to get to the *really* delicate stage of whatever it is you're fettling.

On average this is still less annoying than having to grope for the light switch when your hands are full and/or dirty.

GPWM,
I'm rarely in my garden at night time, long enough for the lamp to time out. Plus, I'm usually moving. Very moving.
So we can write that off as Not My Best Idea. 

[robgul]

LED battens from Screwfix - pretty cheap, just connect to the existing wiring for the pendant.

I have 3 about 3' long in my garage and it's lit up like an operating theatre . . . and uses almost no electricity

[Mrs Pingu]

Are any of these things linkable for people with no electrical aptitude?

[Diver300]

Are any of these things linkable for people with no electrical aptitude?

They are about as easy as it gets. Many have connections each end, and many don't need a screwdriver. The Live, Neutral and Earth need to be connected to the Live, Neutral and Earth of the next one, and that's about all that's needed.

Fitting a PIR switch is more complicated.

[Diver300]

Why not a PIR activated...

IME the timeout is always approximately equal to the time it takes you, sitting cross-legged on the floor surrounded by pingfuckits, to get to the *really* delicate stage of whatever it is you're fettling.

On average this is still less annoying than having to grope for the light switch when your hands are full and/or dirty.

I have an override switch. It is usually at the delicate pingfuckit stage that the PIR times out and I remember that I haven't operated the switch.

If there is an override switch, make sure you know which position is "Off" as the PIR will usually keep the light on whatever the switch position if you are near the switch.

[Mrs Pingu]

Why not a PIR activated...

IME the timeout is always approximately equal to the time it takes you, sitting cross-legged on the floor surrounded by pingfuckits, to get to the *really* delicate stage of whatever it is you're fettling.

On average this is still less annoying than having to grope for the light switch when your hands are full and/or dirty.

I have an override switch. It is usually at the delicate pingfuckit stage that the PIR times out and I remember that I haven't operated the switch.

If there is an override switch, make sure you know which position is "Off" as the PIR will usually keep the light on whatever the switch position if you are near the switch.

That sounds like a good idea, how does that work?
(I see a visit from the sparky in our future)

[JefO]

Uncanny that this has come up as a subject today. Today for the first time since 1990, my garage has succumbed to being cleared out (so that I can keep the better rubbish from my parents' place, including things they kept from their parents' places! My rather outdated lighting consists of a 4ft flourescent tube and a 25W conventional lamp.

I don't have a problem with turning the light switch on but definitely need some low energy LED type lighting, so reading this post with interest!

[Kim]

Why not a PIR activated...

IME the timeout is always approximately equal to the time it takes you, sitting cross-legged on the floor surrounded by pingfuckits, to get to the *really* delicate stage of whatever it is you're fettling.

On average this is still less annoying than having to grope for the light switch when your hands are full and/or dirty.

I have an override switch. It is usually at the delicate pingfuckit stage that the PIR times out and I remember that I haven't operated the switch.

This (well, it's a software variable), but I only remember about it when the light goes out.

[robgul]

I looked at some sort of auto-switching/PIR etc but decided that it was just buggering about for the sake of it - keep it simple with a light switch (which will already exist by the sound of it)

[lissotriton]

Depends on how close the switch is to the door. Not so convenient if you have to poke around in the dark to find it.

For PIR sensors, some have an override mode by switching it on and off several times quickly.

[Jurek]

How about a PIR activated entry light, which allows you to put down whatever you are holding and find and activate all of the other, conventionally switched, lights - working the opposite way around when you leave.

[rafletcher]

I’ve got led battens (actually led “tubes” in old style flourescent fittings) linked to a PIR over the door with an adjustable timeout. All my electrical knowledge comes from the Readers Digest (or some such) Big Red Book of DIY. I managed to rewire a house. Electrictrickery of that sort is straightforward.

[Mrs Pingu]

How about a PIR activated entry light, which allows you to put down whatever you are holding and find and activate all of the other, conventionally switched, lights - working the opposite way around when you leave.

Sounds ideal. PIR for general leaving/getting home bicylops docking/undocking and finding the bird food. Switched light of a thousand suns for extended footering about.
Perhaps I could reporpoise the 13A socket on one of the joists for the PIR and use what the pendant is running off for the 'big stuff'.

[Jurek]

How about a PIR activated entry light, which allows you to put down whatever you are holding and find and activate all of the other, conventionally switched, lights - working the opposite way around when you leave.

Sounds ideal. PIR for general leaving/getting home bicylops docking/undocking and finding the bird food. Switched light of a thousand suns for extended footering about.
Perhaps I could reporpoise the 13A socket on one of the joists for the PIR and use what the pendant is running off for the 'big stuff'.

Incidentally, IME, those LED strip lights you linked to, come with all the plug-terminated leads you need to chain-link them together (or you can connect them directly together without using leads). They literally are plug-in-and-play. You do not need a sparky for that task, it is no more difficult than assembling Lego.

[Mrs Pingu]

In theory, yes. But I think the linking leads they supply are not going to be long enough to go between joists. And I still need to wire the first one in.

[Jurek]

IIRC the leads are ~1m in length - there's no reason two or more cannot be linked together. I think you can also get additional leads (without the lamps) from a supplier like TLC.

[Feanor]

If you simply get a number of plain LED strips, I can assist with the wiring. I have reels of the correct cable to hand and as many wagos and whatnot as required.

[Mrs Pingu]

Thank you for the offer, sir.

[PaulF]

I have a couple of these in my double garage. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-twin-6ft-led-batten-59w-6800lm-220-240v/337pp More than ample. They come with fixings which make them easy to screw to wooden joists.

I have one of those and can definitely recommend. It replaced a fluorescent tube and gives far more light than the tube it replaced; I originally thought I’d need a couple of them but a single one is ample

[quixoticgeek]

Over head lighting is always going to cause issues with it being above, and behind you, and thus what you're trying to look at being shaded. I have found that while it's useful to have some general room lighting, for any detail, I want task lighting. Depending on where I am this is either from a DIY high CRI desk lamp, or I have some Makita work lights that run on 18v batteries and can be positioned to light what I need.

Works very well.

J

[Jurek]

^
Agreed.
These :

are what I have recently installed a pair of on the workbench in my office/studio/workshop.
Not cheap, but lovely to use.
Recommended.
https://tinyurl.com/2nvj6bxm