12 days in Scotland from Edinburgh to Inverness through Skye. Any advice?

[TheCrazyTravel]

On 5th September I am taking a train to Edinburgh with my girlfriend, from there we will ride our bikes fully loaded and wild camp around Scotland.

I have some idea about the route (open to changes, and leaving room for detours), but I would like to ask for advice.

This two images are a draft of our possible route, which one you think is better? It is possible to combine them as well. We are interested in nice surroundings and quiet roads when possible, and if possible avoid specially hard climbs.





The dots (A, B, C...) doesn't mark anything in particular. We will do the stops as we feel like and depending where we can free camp.

I would like to know how hard are these routes. We rode around the center of England last winter, but we have not much preparation.

Extra question: Any recommendations agains the midges?

[Wowbagger]

It looks splendid!

My one piece of advice would be to avoid the Invernesss -  Ullapool road but I see you are doing that.
We had a great trip to Skye a few years ago and there is a ride report somewhere in the forum. A search for Glenbrittle should find it.

[Lady Cavendish]

I am just back and my trip included exactly this bit!!!!

Nothing massively hard, the Ardnamurchan bit is quite lumpy and after the Skye Bridge the next section to Strathcannon etc has some big climbs. Not too sure after that bit as I was in an ambulance

It was gorgeous You'll love it

Edit- just seen you're not going that way after the Skye Bridge. Worth looking at going that way it was beautiful. The other way is nice too tho, there is a notable lump at Drumnadrochit

[jane]

The route using the Corran ferry is better.  The last stretch of main road into Fort William is an unpleasant ride, especially in August, and best avoided. it's busy and narrow with poor sightlines in places and I recall some very close passes on it.  Especially unpleasant were a couple of close calls with people hauling caravans.  It amazes me how easy it is for people to transform their vehicles into what are effectively heavy goods vehicles and attempt to haul them round our roads with no training whatsoever.  It might be easier in September, though.  But still lots of big lorries, and although these drivers are far more skilled and experienced, it still feels unpleasant being passed on this stretch.
The  A 82 is a busy, fast and narrow road too and  I guess that's why you have a possible route up the A85 instead.  It's such a shame because the former is such a stunning road, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, but I must admit, I understand why you could choose the other road. It is quieter and a much less stressful ride. I have ridden both.  The A82 is the most impressive, scenery wise, but the A85 certainly feels safer.
    As I said to Lady C, once off the Corran ferry and on the A861 to Strontian, about 5 or 6 miles from Corran, there is a turning on to a B road which takes you through Kingairloch.  It's a lovely road, and if you have the time, worth the extra miles, in my opinion.  I have only ever ridden it in the other direction, though.
Smidge  http://www.tiso.com/shop/smidge/ is about the best thing I have found so far now, for midge protection.  It's free from Deet type ingredients, smells OK, feels OK on the skin and got me through the midge fest that is Glen Affric in August.  It's fairly widely available up there. 

[Lady Cavendish]

Ah yes I didn't see that bit properly.

Definitely vote for the Corran ferry route here too, that's much the nicer way.

I actually really like the A82 over Rannich Moor, I think that's an amazing ride. I don't personally have any issues with riding on the A82 it's fine for me but understand some people aren't keen.

[jane]

Yes, of the two roads, the 82 is my favourite.  However, it can't be denied the 85 is quieter. 
Several years ago, I was riding back to Glasgow along it when they were doing extensive work on the bridge a few miles beyond Glencoe.  Almost a mile of it was reduced to a single narrow lane, controlled by lights.  They were red when I arrived, I waited as the traffic streamed through, then stopped then I moved off as the lighs changed to green.  After a while it became apparent that the lights were not timed to take account of a tired hill climber, returning home on a bike heavily laden with kit and camping equipment travelling at quite a bit less than 20 mph.  A stream of traffic lead by several large trucks was heading towards me, accelerating rapidly.  I had to pull of the road pretty smartly, and perch precariously at the side, till the line passed, then pedal frantically till I reached the other side of the closure.  That was fun.
 I am guessing, now, such a situation wouldn't arise, as the awareness of cycling has increased.  And it is a beautiful road.  But the OP did request quiet roads where possible.  It's not the quietest.

[teethgrinder]

I'd go for the 2nd route with the Corran ferry too. I really like the bit around Benderloch, though I have probably always done that very early in the morning on a 600km Audax, when the sun is low which can really bring out the best in the scenery as well as be a very quiet time of day for traffic. Rannoch Moor has usualy been a battle into a strong headwind with twats in cars making me want to punch their heads in because of their impatient and dangerous driving. The scenery up there is OK, but I think it's overrated.
Loch Ness (on your first route) is OK. If you go that way, I really enjoyed eating at Fiddlers in Drumnadrochit. Not a bargain eatery. I spent about £30 on 3 courses for just me, so it's not by any means relatively expensive. I did enjoy it a lot. It's a Scotch Whisky bar and all of the food is fortified with whisky, even the salad and desert. (Actually, I think I ordered a whisky cake) I decided against ordering a Jack Daniels.

I'd use DEET for midges. I have some ultra powerfull DEET spray (DEET1000 rating I think) It has lots of warnings on the label and is so powerfull it literally melts plastic, so be carefull if you use DEET spray on your tent and clothes etc.

[AlbertoC]

We've taken similar routes in the last year and wrote most of it on http://machacasonwheels.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/touring

The A82 is not the nicest of roads, has heavy and fast traffic, but it does have a cycle path all the way (or at least until the junction with the A83, where we turned left). The scenery on that road is great also!

[RJ]

The best protection against midges is simply to cover up. They don't like strong sun, or much of a wind, so no problem when you're moving. September is also late enough to avoid their peak. I'd be tempted to pack (or buy en route at the Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum*) midge nets for your heads. DEET is effective. If that's too chemically, try something with citronella. Forestry workers swear by Avon Skin-so-soft, also on sale at the Green Welly.

* - but in Tydrum I recommend eating at the Real Food Cafe

[TheCrazyTravel]

Thank you everybody for your recommendations and advice.

After thinking about what you all said, this will be probably our route. Obviously we will be able to add detours and change it on route, but this is our actual idea.





We might go to Fort Williams when we arrive to Loch Ness, in which case we consider taking the road on the East side of the lake.

By the way, any recommendations about wild camping on route? And... any more recommendations about places to eat? Specially interested in the very cheap options.

One more time, thank you!

[mcshroom]

There's a passenger ferry that runs from Camusnagaul to Fort William* which allows you to avoid the A82 between Corran Ferry and Ft William.


*Well there usually is, but it was out of service being repaired when I wanted to use it in October 2011

[RJ]

There's a passenger ferry that runs from Camusnagaul to Fort William* which allows you to avoid the A82 between Corran Ferry and Ft William.


*Well there usually is, but it was out of service being repaired when I wanted to use it in October 2011

Potentially useful (if running) when otherwise travelling to Corran from the north.