Got the chainline right on the Bob Griffin after a certain amount of faffing - the recommended BB lengths on Spa Cycles' webshite aren't right and I needed a 103mm BB (Tange - Shimano don't make one). That got it within 2mm and then I put a 1/16" Sturmey-Archer spacer under the freewheel to make it within 0.5mm when checked with a long straight edge. Mind you, this was never going to be easy, as it's a Campag Record hub respaced, on a shorter axle, to make it into a singlespeed, and happily dishless, hub. The only thing between the RH cone and the dropout now is the locknut.
Still haven't found a rear cable hanger that works. The seatbolt is really close to the seatpost (1mm or so) so only something very thin can be suspended from the bolt between the lugs. The Surly one just fits between the lugs but is too long and the yoke would hit it when applying the brake - they probably only work on compact frames. One that goes on the outside of the lugs would fit but they are nearly all 6mm bore, not 8mm. Alternatively, it's the mega-expensive Paul's one that clamps around the seatpost itself. I know dual-pivots would be easier but they look crap in 70mm reach and don't work all that well either.
Also reproduced the unique rubber gasket on a couple of Kona Impact headsets by injecting black silicone. All the original gaskets are hardened and perished these days, if they're even still present (the youngest one is nearly 25 years old), and they are a very odd 3D shape to fill the T-shaped cut in the top nut, which is also the locknut. After smoothing and wiping, the silicone looks original and will seal much better than the original ever did.