Thru Axle sizing advice

[Feanor]

Mrs F has a commuting bike withThru Axles.
My knowledge of these is minimal.

The front one is seized, and the hex has rounded out.
I've cut a slot and tried to use a big screwdriver, but it just cams out.
An Ez-out might work, but I can't find my set right now.

The removal is going to be destructive however it's done now.
I am planning on just drilling it out on the threaded side.
That will work.

But what to replace it with?
Are these things generic?
I *think* it's 100 x 12, but a wee bit hard to measure in-situ.
The diameter of the threaded end seems very close to 12mm, and the length is a close to 100 as it's possible to measure through the disk and spokes.

So are these things generic?


Thru axle by Ron Lowe, on Flickr

[FifeingEejit]

Most likely 100x12 in the "standard" sizing (i.e. 100mm spacing and the axel is 12mm diameter) but that doesn't account for the thread in the nut side and the thickness of the forks.

You'll likely be able to find a "Willier genuine replacement" at some silly price but there are also companies that make replacements:
Robert Axle (not used their products before) don't list Willier but do have a page showing how to (possibly) identify the axle size you need.
https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/

[Feanor]

My innane googling has landed me here, Option 1 might be correct...

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-twist-lever-thru-axle/rp-prod176625?gs=1&sku=sku672492&pgrid=60711842858&ptaid=pla-548481139342&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|swYTZ6R57_dc|pcrid|309840163148|pkw||pmt||prd|672492UK&gclid=CJLcnaHj3-ICFdiF1Qoda5EJVA

[Brucey]

its always worth trying various methods like banging in torx bits into rounded holes etc; you never know if this is going to work or not.  But when push comes to shove you have two approaches that might get the thing out;

a) drilling the axle or
b) cutting it

It all depends which is most at risk/ difficult to replace; the spacers in the ends of the hub or the fork itself.  Drilling risks the latter for sure; some folk would just cut through the axle at both ends of the hub, figuring that they would be able to get new spacers/end caps for the hub or to replace the entire hub/ innards  is cheaper than to replace the fork.  This approach does assume that the remaining pieces of axle will come out of the fork ends though; I suppose that it is possible that you might end up wrecking everything.


FWIW I don't think this arrangement was designed with commuting in mind.

cheers

[Feanor]

Finally got this fixed.
An ez out firmly tapped into the chewed out hole got the thing out.

It took a surprising amount of torque to break the seize, but once it started it just came right out.

The chewed out hole took the second largest of the extractors without any additional drilling, and it required continuous hammering in to prevent it camming out as I upped the torque, but it got a proper hold and finally it came free with a bit of a bang.

The extractor then came out of the scrap axle with no trouble at all.