Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: vorsprung on 21 December, 2009, 10:39:53 am
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Stuff still to do
- Although the hub fits nicely in the dropouts (Alfine is 135 and Roadrat is 132.5 but it all works fine) the Alfine fitting kit has the wrong "non turn washers" for a horizontal rear facing dropout. So I'm waiting for these parts to arrive from Germany. 1.50 euro part, 6 euros postage
- The gear cable is plenty long enough but fitting it onto the gear cable guides already on the frame will be challenging. The Alfine cable is in a single continuous housing. Normal road cables like to stop off for a teaparty at the down tube adjusters
- The front light needs to be fitted. I think I will break with my usual habit and fit the IQ Fly on the fork crown
- The mudguards are 50mm wide Stronglight ones from Spa. They have strange plastic bolts to attach the stays to the guards. I got them rather than SKS as Spa didn't have any really wide ones in stock. On the plus side Spa said when I ordered them that the Strong light ones were "like SKS but thicker and heavier" and this does seem to be the case. They were also a bit cheaper. Put on the rear one for size the other day. Need to faff about with safety clips on the rear and hacksaw the stays to a better length
- Transfer SQR block, front wheel, IQ Fly and B17 from old bike. The old bike is being retired.
- The brake cables will need trimming to length and anti fray caps fitting
I was hoping to bring news of my new bike being finished before xmas but it's not to be
At present the following stuff is done
- Alfine rear wheel built, marathon+ on it. 36h weights about a metric ton. I should actually weigh it for a laugh.
- Cotic Roadrat, built up with road kit but minus the wheels is in my garage. I bought it all built up from Mr.Cotic, all I had to do was fit the seatpost and attach the stem. So headset/bb/cranks/brakes all AOK. It is wonderously shiney and black.
- Front wheel has been in use on my old bike for a couple of weeks
- Pedals installed on new bike
OH DEAR
bit of a problem
The alfine shifter will only fit on 22.2mm diameter handle bars
So I will have to either
1) get a jtek bar end shifter, price 60 quid. I don't think I have the budget for this. Not sure if they are currently available either
2) get a minoura space grip or similar and mount like this
(http://www.ecovelo.info/images/alfine-shifter.jpg) Do space grip users think this will work?????
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**BUMP**
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Well, that looks like it will be close enough to your hand to get in the way when you're on the hoods, yet not close enough to change easily :-\
Personally, I am hoping for a magical solution for how to fit a twistgrip designed for straight bars onto the end of bullhorns. I imagine some tapered tubing, fixing wedge & woofle dust might help... :-\
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HubBub Twist Shifter Drop Bar Adaptor - harriscyclery.net (http://harriscyclery.net/product/hubbub-twist-shifter-drop-bar-adaptor-sku-ld6087-qc49.htm)
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Well, that solves my problem, thanks :)
But I'm not sure it helps vorsprung
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Hub gear STI's?
Versa VRS-8 integrated drop bar levers (http://road.cc/content/news/12234-versa-levers-let-you-fit-hub-your-road-bike%E2%80%A6?utm_medium=email&utm_source=Emailmarketingsoftware&utm_content=812904388&utm_campaign=rccTuesday2009-12-22+_+uhkkdl&utm_term=SoundswrongbutitcouldbesorightifonlysomeonedidaintegrateddropbarleverthatworkedwithhubgearsOhtheydo)
Not sure on price or availibility but look like a damn good idea
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Not convinced by those, and if the bar end shifters are beyond budget, then I'm afraid these levers must be, too.
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I reckon you could get the clamp of the flat bar Alfine STI unit drilled out to 24mm fairly easily - then it would at lest clamp on to road bars. Not sure it'd go round the bends of a drop bar though.
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I reckon you could get the clamp of the flat bar Alfine STI unit drilled out to 24mm fairly easily - then it would at lest clamp on to road bars. Not sure it'd go round the bends of a drop bar though.
This would be my option and it would definitely go around the bends in the bars once drilled out, despite popular opinion. On my Flikr account you can see that I've managed to get brake levers and shifter pods all the way round the bends in butterfly bars. I found it surprisingly easy after trying during an idle moment, just needs a bit of waggling.
Flickr: MacBludgeon's Photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37729119@N08/)
Out of curiosity does anyone know the reason, if there is one, for the different bar diameters, road to MTB?
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Hub gear STI's?
Versa VRS-8 integrated drop bar levers (http://road.cc/content/news/12234-versa-levers-let-you-fit-hub-your-road-bike%E2%80%A6?utm_medium=email&utm_source=Emailmarketingsoftware&utm_content=812904388&utm_campaign=rccTuesday2009-12-22+_+uhkkdl&utm_term=SoundswrongbutitcouldbesorightifonlysomeonedidaintegrateddropbarleverthatworkedwithhubgearsOhtheydo)
Not sure on price or availibility but look like a damn good idea
I believe if they were available they would be circa 180 quid
They do not pull the correct amount of cable for V brakes
They don't seem to be available at the moment. There was a initial production run last year but it seems to have sold out
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I reckon you could get the clamp of the flat bar Alfine STI unit drilled out to 24mm fairly easily - then it would at lest clamp on to road bars. Not sure it'd go round the bends of a drop bar though.
Yes I think that is possible too. The metal around the shifter clamp seems quite thick. I will discuss it with my mechanically inclined brother in law over xmas. Would I need a 24mm giant metal drill like this?
Buy Halls MC 5m High Speed Steel Step Drill 6mm To 24mm, Metric Step Drills from Tool-Up UK (http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/HLLMC5M.html)
I have access to a couple of bench drills with a platform and a lever to lower the drill bit etc
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That'd probably work. Won't be pretty, but ok. You could file it out if you're careful - it's only 1mm off all round.
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I would just use a vice, my regular drill and the correct size drill bit, it is quite a small amount to be taken out. You could even do it by using a 22mm drill bit and waggling it round a bit. The clamp has a bit of give as well.
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Room to replace some spacers with one of these?
Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 105 mm Extension (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=11040)
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If its an ally clamp I would just use a step drill to ream it out. Pillar drill and a huge hss bit is overkill.
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Thought you might like to see Civia's take on a similar idea
EcoVelo » Blog Archive » First Look: 2010 Civia Bryant (http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/12/29/first-look-civia-bryant-2/)
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That is a well thought out machine.
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That is a well thought out machine.
Yes, had a good read of the site and also visited the belt drive manufacturers site. As I'd want gears, the let down for me would be the hassle removing the wheel with the Shimano hub gear offerings. Though the Gates Carbon Drive site indicates that SRAM and Rohloff compatible options will be coming along. With the additional weight savings it would make a hub gear build much closer to a derailler setup. They claim a belt should last 8k miles but I can't see prices for the system, or replacement parts, anywhere. Would also like to see some better shifter options from SRAM and Rohloff.
I suppose the big show stopper is the need to break the rear triangle for installation/replacement of the belt. Though I don't see that it would be an impossible modification to an existing steel frame. Just a case of putting in a break and join somewhere. The Civia method of using a replaceable dropout to hold together the seat and chainstay seems pretty solid.
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If its an ally clamp I would just use a step drill to ream it out. Pillar drill and a huge hss bit is overkill.
I don't have a step drill and a cheap HSS is cheaper
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25mm is big for a cheap drill bit. I'd offer to see what I've got in the tool boxes, but I'm away until next week.
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I suppose the big show stopper is the need to break the rear triangle for installation/replacement of the belt. Though I don't see that it would be an impossible modification to an existing steel frame. Just a case of putting in a break and join somewhere.
EcoVelo » Blog Archive » Gallery: Morgan Patton’s Handmade Belt-Drive Commuter (http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/12/07/gallery-morgan-pattons-handmade-belt-drive-commuter/)
^ uses an S&S coupler.
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I suppose the big show stopper is the need to break the rear triangle for installation/replacement of the belt. Though I don't see that it would be an impossible modification to an existing steel frame. Just a case of putting in a break and join somewhere.
EcoVelo » Blog Archive » Gallery: Morgan Patton’s Handmade Belt-Drive Commuter (http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/12/07/gallery-morgan-pattons-handmade-belt-drive-commuter/)
^ uses an S&S coupler.
that looks really good, I was also toying with the bike builder bit on Van Nicholas as they offer the Amazon Rohloff with the Gates belt drive. Price is a bit eye watering but overall bike weight including guards, rack, son dynamo, 35mm tyres etc comes in at 22-23lbs. I wouldn't want their standard build as I want double eyeleted rims, better tyres etc but that would be some commuting machine ;D
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As to fitting the gear lever onto dropped bars, it's quite easy actually. I have been using a mountain bike type 9 speed lever on the tops of my main Audax bike,which has dropped bars, for the last 7 years.
All you need is a power drill and the right size flapwheel to open up the diameter of the clip which fits onto the bars.
Just clamp the changing unit firmly in a vise and just work the flapwheel around inside the clip until it fits. Try it for size regularly and ensure that you work mainly on the thickest part of the clamp so that you don't weaken it too much. Also, try and keep the 'hole' as round as possible.
The clamp is only made of aluminium. So it won't take too long to remove the excess metal.
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That is a well thought out machine.
Agreed.
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As to fitting the gear lever onto dropped bars, it's quite easy actually. I have been using a mountain bike type 9 speed lever on the tops of my main Audax bike,which has dropped bars, for the last 7 years.
Thanks for this, it's quite encouraging that it works for you
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update
I have the drill bit and should be going over my bro in laws tomorrow, roads permitting
I also have a 75mm M6 bolt for the front mudguard/dyno light
So I am winning and with a fair wind I might even be using the bike on monday
Hopefully I will ride to the pub and see IanH on it next weds
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Bah
I rode a dicey 5 miles to my bro in laws house through the slush. You couldn't get a car up there so I biked and walked
But the 24mm HSS drill doesn't fit in his drill. I need a "Morse 2" taper for his drill and the one I have is too big.
I'll phone up the drill company on monday and see what gives
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Come on, despite assurances I'm keen to know whether the drilling out works, patience is not a virtue I subscribe to ;D
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Come on, despite assurances I'm keen to know whether the drilling out works
Me too, so I just bought an MT2 to MT3 adapter so when that arrives hopefully the drill will fit in the machine
Bro-in-law is concerned that it will be difficult to stop the drill bit grabbing the sides of he hole and wazzing it about so I might have to think about how I will clamp it in place
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How about using an adjustable diameter hand operated seat post reamer? I am going to try this myself one day this week. I'm hoping they go down to a small enough diameter?
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Come on, despite assurances I'm keen to know whether the drilling out works
Me too, so I just bought an MT2 to MT3 adapter so when that arrives hopefully the drill will fit in the machine
Bro-in-law is concerned that it will be difficult to stop the drill bit grabbing the sides of he hole and wazzing it about so I might have to think about how I will clamp it in place
Ok ta, just remember your audience is waiting ::-)
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Just a though but, if drilling out doesn't work, is it possible to convert to an open bracket style via hacksaw, drill and jubliee clip? Cut away 75% of the clamp, drill a slot on either side of the remainder and thread through a jubilee clip. Benefit would be ease of removal rather than having to untap bars etc.
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Little attempt at a bodge of mine for repositioning of a twist shifter, should work on any bar in any position:-
Twist Shifter fitting Extension - a set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37729119@N08/sets/72157623073074209/)
If it's a fail it's only 30 minutes of my time and the price of a jubilee clip. As I have it in the piccie I would fit the shifter facing down towards the bar, I reckon I can cope with the number display being upside down ;D It could also be done withouth the flaps and just filing/drilling a groove in the end of the bit of bar. Then you could cut the slots higher up for greater strength, but I thought it wouldn't grip so well that way round.
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ok i tried drilling out the "brifter" shifter to 24mm so it would fit on road bars
This didn't work. The shifter is an odd shape and part of it is plastic. Clamping it securely under the drill proved impossible. The 24mm HSS drill bit grabbed the sides of the 22mm hole with a lot of force and flung the part out.
So I tried the filing out method. This was surprisingly quick and easy. After about an hour the shifter was on the bike.
The bike still isn't on the road. I need to retape the bars, make sure the brakes route ok, run the cable housing for the gears to the back of the bike, get the chain to the right length, cut the gear cable housing and gear cable, set up the gears, transfer the saddle, light, SQR block and front wheel from the old bike
But optimistically it might be going to the pub wednesday night ;D ;D ;D ;D
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But optimistically it might be going to the pub wednesday night ;D ;D ;D ;D
I'll bring the first-aid kit.
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what did you use for filing it out?
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what did you use for filing it out?
A round file, approx 15mm diameter, seemed quite coarse for a metal file
If I did this again and spent money on tools to make it easier ( instead of what I did, spend money on tools for no gain at all ) then an adjustable H11 reamer would be of the list
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what did you use for filing it out?
A round file, approx 15mm diameter, seemed quite coarse for a metal file
If I did this again and spent money on tools to make it easier ( instead of what I did, spend money on tools for no gain at all ) then an adjustable H11 reamer would be of the list
thanks V, I'll have a look, did think about one of those sort of flappy dremel bits as well. My original temptation, to use the side of a large drill bit like a file, is probably going to suffer the same sort of clamping issues you did.
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I just rode the new bike to work
Photos here (http://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=17.msg526491#msg526491)
Note: BMX chains look beautiful but 98 links won't stretch around a 45x20. Luckiily I found an old 8 speed chain in the garage