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The Knowledge / Re: Best glue to fix a crank
« Last post by Jurek on Today at 10:24:44 am »
Loctite 638 and 641 are bearing retainers, and probably too viscous to do the capillary action thing you are looking for.

A thin cyanoacrylate adhesive is probably best - dob some onto some scrap plastic, pick the adhesive up with a toothpick, and use the toothpick to deliver the adhesive - rather than trying to deliver it from the spout of the bottle, where it can end up everywhere.
And don't use accelerator on it, although it speeds things up, it can compromise the integrity of the bond.

Before applying the adhesive I'd give the part a dousing / agitation (and repeat) in isopropyl alcohol beforehand, to try and ensure that the fissure is as clean as possible . If you are able to submerge it in isopropyl alcohol in an ultrasonic tank, and then dry it using compressed air, that would be ideal.
Ctrl-Alt-Del / Re: Clicky Keyboard
« Last post by perpetual dan on Today at 10:19:32 am »
I took delivery of a Filco Ninja the other day. Mine has cherry brown switches, which I gather are in the middle of the clicky / tactile spectrum. On first go I’m pleased with it, rather different to my aging apple keyboard! I’m still getting used to the @ and “ symbols having moved and the different size, so can’t really give it a proper ‘love this one’ recommendation yet. They make them in various layout though.
The Knowledge / Re: Best glue to fix a crank
« Last post by IanN on Today at 10:09:32 am »
Would loctite 638 or 641 do it?

I'm not a mech engineer, so some proper advice required
Food & Drink / Re: Marmalade
« Last post by Tim Hall on Today at 09:52:19 am »
My sister has just sent me a picture of some three fruit marmalade she has made. "Normal" oranges plus grapefruit and something else, the grapefruit doing bitter duties that Seville oranges do in regular maramlade.  Nothing special I thought. Except the oranges came from a tree in her garden.  FFS.

(She is in Sydney, where such things are possible)
The Knowledge / Semi-circular marks on thru/through axles?
« Last post by LittleWheelsandBig on Today at 09:50:39 am »
Something is making at least some SON thru axle hubs rotate in the fork in use, as described and depicted in

shows a typical mark (wrapping nearly half the circumference) from the end of the hub axle.

Does this same movement occur in normal hubs? I am asking if your axles show a similar mark. This poll is an attempt to see if the same thing happens in all thru/through axle hubs but is only noticeable when using dynohubs.
The Knowledge / Best glue to fix a crank
« Last post by zigzag on Today at 09:49:44 am »
some time ago i felt a small wobble in my right crank and on further inspection a pressed-in axle has come loose. i've pounded it out against a block of wood but never got round to fixing it (i believe it's fixable). i am wondering what sort of glue/epoxy/compound to use to keep it solid. it needs to be runny enough to get into micro gaps and become hard once it cures.

The Knowledge / Re: New Cassette
« Last post by Giropaul on Today at 09:27:25 am »
Is the hub Campag manufactured? I’ve found that some Campag cassette fitting hubs are a tiny bit out. For example, an older Zipp 9,10,11 is very tight on the dropout.
I use an extra washer on the axle - only a slim one- but make sure I put one on each side to keep the wheel centred.
The issue can be made worse by wear on the dropouts - putting wheels in and out over the years can wear away a tiny, but significant, amount. Carbon dropouts are worse for this.
The Pub / Re: Your Wikipedia find of the week
« Last post by Torslanda on Today at 09:25:45 am »
Ctrl-Alt-Del / Re: Clicky Keyboard
« Last post by rafletcher on Today at 09:24:00 am »
I like Logitech, use their wireless keyboards and mice with the unifying receiver

Available on Amazon for £30.

Hmmm.. I have a full size Logitech keyboard/mouse with US layout. Teh actual problem is the width of my desk - the keyboard drawer is 58cm wide.
Which lead me to my next question on desks!

Sorry, I looked for “compact” and didn’t pay attention!  The do one without numeric keys, but the keys themselves look different so I’ve no idea on feel. The one I linked to has a nice positive click feel, without bounce.
Bicycles / Re: Trek Domane
« Last post by s3dbw on Today at 09:21:32 am »
For those of you with Bontrager Speed Stop Brakes, this may be of interest as I recently had an issue with a sticking caliper

The speed stop brake is affixed to the frame via 2 direct mount fixings on the brake calliper. These operate by fixing the centre barrel of the direct mount calliper to the frame using the large bolts at the front of the calliper. Each calliper then pivots about this centre barrel when the brakes are applied.

However, over time water and crap can find its way in and inevitably the calliper starts to seize up around the barrel thus restricting its movement. The Trek service manual on the speed stop brake only details installation and adjustment, but not how to service should you need to take apart, clean and lubricate.
Removal of the centre barrels for cleaning and lubrication is actually quite straightforward once you know how they are installed.

1.   With the calliper of the bike, remove the large centre bolt, there is an internal thread on the barrel so you need to keep unscrewing the bolt when you pull it back to remove
2.   Turn the calliper over and look from the bottom where the centre arm of the calliper and the external arm of the calliper are held together. On the side of the barrel which would be mounted closest to the frame there is a circlip over the centre barrel, use a small screwdriver to pry this off.
3.   Working from the front of the calliper use a 9mm drift to gently tap the centre barrel out of the housing.
4.   After cleaning and lubrication, installation is simply the reverse of this process.
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