Author Topic: Wheelbuild advice  (Read 458 times)

fd3

Wheelbuild advice
« on: April 21, 2019, 03:18:51 pm »
I am after building wheels for a steel track bike - for on road use. 
I recently built some wheels with Kinlin XR22Ts, which I am happy with but I need to be able to run 23mm tyres and the Kinlin's aren't recommended for smaller than 25s.  I would like to have the option of running tubeless, not running a rear brake.
Could someone recommend a rear hub, I am happy to shell out for something more expensive than a System EX if it's worth it, but nothing Phil Wood price-like.
This is for my lighter bike, as my other bike is the trusty 38mm tyre hub dynamo bike.  I'm <70kg so will probably try a lower spoke count than my usual 32.

Re: Wheelbuild advice
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2019, 06:40:26 am »
The System EX hubs are good enough and the bearings are replaceable.  Goldtec hubs don't stand up to winter salt (mine cracked) and "real" track hubs aren't sealed, except for Miche (which would also be ok).  What chainline do you need?  Miche single-sided ttack hubs give a dished rear wheel unless you respace them for a chainline of about 46mm.  Any double fixed hub will give a dishless wheel.  I wouldn't go down to 28 spokes with a dished wheel.

I don't use tubeless although I am a narrow tyre fan.  I'd use Ryde Chrina, Exal XR1 or something else cheap.  If you don't mind £50-60 on a rim, I like DT rims a lot.
Never tell me the odds.

Re: Wheelbuild advice
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2019, 10:53:01 am »
My Goldtec hub broke a flange and they were very sniffy about replacing it under warranty (but did so in the end).

fd3

Re: Wheelbuild advice
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2019, 04:12:28 pm »
Okay, so keep it simple with the hubs; I'll ask about rims for narrow tubeless in general knowledge.  Thanks for the advice.

Re: Wheelbuild advice
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2019, 08:27:06 pm »
My Goldtec hub broke a flange and they were very sniffy about replacing it under warranty (but did so in the end).
They wouldn't replace mine at all when the flange cracked.  They offered a free wheelbuild, which was useless since I always build my own.  They are cast and machined, not forged, hence weaker than big-name hubs, and they don't stand up to road salt.  The oily drive side didn't crack and looked like new under the grime - the left side was covered in powdery corrosion.
Never tell me the odds.