OK - on the RH axle outside the dropout in this shot, there is the guide nut/axle nut, then a 3mm spacer (only necessary to keep the axle end in the "porthole" for visual adjustment), then the cast anti-rotation washer, which just fits into the slot. Note the brass washers under the spoke heads to compensate for the thin steel flanges. The hub is a 1987 AW. The black plastic protector on the end of the nut is important, although rarely seen on working bikes. It stops the chain getting bent if the bike falls, or is laid, on its RH side.
This shot (I need to finish building the bike up tomorrow) shows the shifter, which I've mounted upside-down as a bar-con, the cable stop and the pulley. You'll just have band-on versions instead.
If you want to fit a trigger shifter to drop bars, you'll find they're too fat. You need to get a longer M5 bolt and put a bend in it (hold it in a vice and whack it with a hammer) so the shifter clamp works when opened up a bit. Crude but pretty standard among Sturmey tinkerers.
Gearing on mine, incidentally, is 41 x 18, which gives 45", 60" and 80" gears.
An alloy shell saves 4oz/113g.
The SRAM hubs are fine but SA hubs are more widely understood by bike mechanics, and parts are easy to get for the common ones (an K651A "long" AM axle has eluded me so far!).
