Author Topic: To spike or not to spike  (Read 2776 times)

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #50 on: December 02, 2018, 04:52:32 pm »
..... (or indeed a tricycle) is a more sensible option for not falling off on unexpected ice.

Whilst I was only (half) joking up thread when I suggested a trike, last winter was why I bought mine. Although I’m now riding it most of the time because it’s great fun!!

The big advantage of a trike is it requires no modification to ride in winter, and you only really get into trouble if you come across a massive sheet of ice and can’t brake... which is a mercifully rare event. For more usual mixed conditions they are awesome, once you’ve got the hang of them.

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #51 on: December 02, 2018, 06:02:19 pm »
Is it possible to use studded tyres without the studs, just putting them in when you do finally find road conditions that require them? That still makes a load of faff and a ride on a heavy and probably unresponsive tyre but it might pay on a 600km ride where the studs are an insurance policy against conditions that might not be met.
a) Would the stud sockets remain clear of mud and other road crud?
b) Would the fitted-on-the-road stud remain in place, or would they be more liable than normal to fall out?
c) How long would it take to fit them?

If you want normal tyres and an insurance policy, taking spare studded tyres seems better. The weight wouldn't slow you down much, and swapping tyres is likely to be quicker than fitting studs.

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #52 on: December 02, 2018, 06:24:46 pm »
Is it possible to use studded tyres without the studs, just putting them in when you do finally find road conditions that require them?

As Kim alludes to, if you're riding in temperatures that might need them, discovering you *do* need them often occurs simultaneously with a sudden lack of grip followed very quickly by a sudden lack of uprightness.

Kim

  • 2nd in the world
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #53 on: December 02, 2018, 06:59:33 pm »
Is it possible to use studded tyres without the studs, just putting them in when you do finally find road conditions that require them?

As Kim alludes to, if you're riding in temperatures that might need them, discovering you *do* need them often occurs simultaneously with a sudden lack of grip followed very quickly by a sudden lack of uprightness.

On the other hand, the other way round (needing studs at the start of the ride, but conditions improving later on) is certainly plausible.  Swapping tyres is surely less hassle than removing the studs, though.
To ride the Windcheetah, first, you must embrace the cantilever...

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #54 on: December 04, 2018, 12:40:01 am »
On the other hand, the other way round (needing studs at the start of the ride, but conditions improving later on) is certainly plausible.  Swapping tyres is surely less hassle than removing the studs, though.

Swapping tyres is one thing, the problem is what do you do with the studded tyres once you've got them off? Marathon Winter's are a non folding tyre, and they got sharp spiky bits everywhere. Not easy to transport on a bike at the best of time, let alone anything of upto 500km worth...

I've just ordered a pair of top contact winter tyres. I went for 622-37. Hopefully they should arrive in the next week. Assuming DHL behave. Question then comes if I try them out on the Belgian 200k audax on the 15th, or put them on when I get back.

Have put some of my 600k adventure into the AUK system as 3 DIY's. A 200 (well 220), a 150 (180), and a 50. Have also signed up for the festive 500 challenge on strava (the reason I'm doing this crazyness in the first place).

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/

Kim

  • 2nd in the world
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #55 on: December 04, 2018, 12:47:09 am »
On the other hand, the other way round (needing studs at the start of the ride, but conditions improving later on) is certainly plausible.  Swapping tyres is surely less hassle than removing the studs, though.

Swapping tyres is one thing, the problem is what do you do with the studded tyres once you've got them off? Marathon Winter's are a non folding tyre, and they got sharp spiky bits everywhere. Not easy to transport on a bike at the best of time, let alone anything of upto 500km worth...

I'm picturing fold inna figure of 8 and toe-strap to the rear rack, but YMMV.
To ride the Windcheetah, first, you must embrace the cantilever...

Cudzoziemiec

  • Solar powered, tea fuelled cycle-wol
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #56 on: December 04, 2018, 08:41:48 am »
Use them for the Belgian 200 in order to get used to their behaviour, and maybe for extra training! Also it means you won't be rushing to fit them at the last minute before the 600 having put it off...
The earth is vast and beautiful and contains many miraculous places. (Chekhov)

mattc

  • n.b. have grown beard since photo taken
    • Didcot Audaxes
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #57 on: December 04, 2018, 10:23:33 am »
Use them for the Belgian 200 in order to get used to their behaviour, and maybe for extra training! Also it means you won't be rushing to fit them at the last minute before the 600 having put it off...
... and you'll know how much they slow you down over 200k in the real world (not figures from internet rolling-resistance experts :P )
Has never ridden RAAM
---------
No.11  Because of the great host of those who dislike the least appearance of "swank " when they travel the roads and lanes. - From Kuklos' 39 Articles

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #58 on: December 04, 2018, 10:06:26 pm »
I'm picturing fold inna figure of 8 and toe-strap to the rear rack, but YMMV.
Figure of eight is no good - you'll end up with a kinked wire bead.
You've got to fold into 3 loops.

Hold the tyre at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock, bring your hands together, grip both bits with one hand, and bring 12 o'clock away and down to the same point. Slide the left and right loops sideways across each other, and bring the lower loop away and up over the top. Despite what it sounds like, two hands are sufficient.

Kim

  • 2nd in the world
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #59 on: December 04, 2018, 10:09:39 pm »
I'm picturing fold inna figure of 8 and toe-strap to the rear rack, but YMMV.
Figure of eight is no good - you'll end up with a kinked wire bead.
You've got to fold into 3 loops.

Hold the tyre at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock, bring your hands together, grip both bits with one hand, and bring 12 o'clock away and down to the same point. Slide the left and right loops sideways across each other, and bring the lower loop away and up over the top. Despite what it sounds like, two hands are sufficient.

That's the one.  I must confess to only ever having unfolded tyres from that state, after they've been folded that way for shipping.  Makes for a reasonably manageable size, anyway, even if it's still a horrid spiky thing.
To ride the Windcheetah, first, you must embrace the cantilever...

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #60 on: December 18, 2018, 11:55:54 am »






We travelled round Iceland a few years back in April and carried spiked tyres using the three loop method, worked really well. I just strapped mine onto the side pockets on my Carradice. Amazingly didn't even get to use them despite the weather!

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #61 on: December 18, 2018, 12:39:57 pm »
That looks utterly AMAZING - are there more photos or a trip report somewhere?

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #62 on: December 18, 2018, 01:44:38 pm »
That looks utterly AMAZING - are there more photos or a trip report somewhere?

Yes it was an amazing ride!!

A slideshow of some images from a talk we did here...  :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Vee_iDEOPE&

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #63 on: December 18, 2018, 01:44:59 pm »
Weather forecast this far out is suggesting it's gonna be wet, but comparatively warm. If the weather forecast doesn't get colder, I'm actually tempted to run the GP 4 seasons. I've got the Top Contact Winter ready if necessary.

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/

Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #64 on: December 18, 2018, 04:18:59 pm »
Amazingly didn't even get to use them despite the weather!
Looking at the mudguard clearance on that Genesis, it's probably a good thing.
If the spikes touch anything on the bike as you're riding, it doesn't last long.

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #65 on: December 20, 2018, 10:55:56 pm »
You've got to fold into 3 loops.

Hold the tyre at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock, bring your hands together, grip both bits with one hand, and bring 12 o'clock away and down to the same point. Slide the left and right loops sideways across each other, and bring the lower loop away and up over the top. Despite what it sounds like, two hands are sufficient.

Just tried this, I think I kinked the bead in the process. Don't suppose there exists (or could exist), a youtube video explaining the process?

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/

Kim

  • 2nd in the world
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #66 on: December 20, 2018, 10:58:20 pm »
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/y6i1Con0gPE&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/y6i1Con0gPE&rel=1</a>
https://youtu.be/y6i1Con0gPE
To ride the Windcheetah, first, you must embrace the cantilever...

Cudzoziemiec

  • Solar powered, tea fuelled cycle-wol
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #67 on: December 21, 2018, 07:22:08 am »
Could be useful to know. That's not how they're folded when they come from the manufacturers though.
The earth is vast and beautiful and contains many miraculous places. (Chekhov)

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
Re: To spike or not to spike
« Reply #68 on: December 27, 2018, 12:15:29 pm »

Just to update. I made it to Leipzig. Did 501km for my festive 500, then hopped a train for the rest. I did it on my GP 4 seasons in the end, but carried the Top Contact winters, just in case. Never needed them. I did have some grip issues comedy off roading near the end, the rear was all over the place. Also has a puncture on the rear, 30km from the end, a flint went through. Quick tube swap, and onwards.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/