FWIW I don't feel a burning need to have a standlight, auto-on off, daytime running lights, or any similar gimcrackery in a dynamo front light. Unfortunately most of the brighter B&M lights (like the IQ-X) come with these things whether you like it or not, and (to my mind) this is bound to decrease reliability. I'd far sooner have the nice housing with just a reliable light (and good optics) within it.
I have recently made an observation about cheap dynamo lights which may be of interest.
In days past, if you wanted more light at speed you could run two 6V lights in series and you would (given a few givens) get about twice the light at speed when using many different generators. However this did come with less light at low speeds. This approach still works with LED lights.
The alternative approach was to use two lights in parallel; however this usually does not result in more light because the current is simply shared between two lights. If LED lights are used, and all the current is passed through the LEDs, pretty much the same thing is true (give or take a bit of efficiency variation with current, which is slight).
However cheap-ish LED type dynamo lights are (usually) designed to use 2.4W @6V (so as to comply with StVZO standards) but do not pass all 0.4A through the LEDs. The LED devices used may have a rating of 1W or less, which means that the current going through them (when warm especially) may only be 0.2A or so; the rest is just wasted. Note also that such lamps are often capable of reaching full brightness at low speed, often when the generator is only producing about 5V or so.
I also note that quite a few hub generators will happily produce a bit more than 0.5A when driving loads which draw current at about 5V or so. This varies a bit but 0.6 or 0.7A is often on the cards. It is also possible to get a rear light that only needs about 30mA or so, which leaves a bit more for the front light(s) too.
The net effect of all this is that if you attach several such LED lights in parallel (I have tried up to three) then you do seem to get more light. [ I also plan to try four lamps in two pairs, both series and parallel. ]
So one scheme is to run the lights as 'normal' most of the time, i.e. with a standard rear light and just one front light, when conditions are mostly such that a 'be seen' light would be adequate. Then, should more light be required (e.g. on an extra-urban night-time ride) then a pair of extra front lights can easily be added (eg on a QD handlebar mount of some kind) and connected by simply by piggybacking on the rear light terminals.
An attraction of this scheme is that your eggs are not expensive eggs and they are not in one basket either; any one lamp could fail and it wouldn't be the end of the world. I don't know how the end result compares (in terms of overall light output) with just one bright light, but I suspect it may not be that far off.
cheers