What have you fettled today?

[T42]

Missed the cable-cutting video.

The things look well-suited to MFTs, especially with a set-up like Millard's. I have a couple of trad woodworking benches with tool trays at the back, and they don't lend themselves to it.  When I make the cut I have to get my body well out to the side to avoid getting caught on the front face-vice. It feels weird, and unsafe.

My bugbear project right now is wall-panelling. Been on it almost a year on & off, and am currently steeling myself to drill exploratory holes into a half-timbered wall whose timbers are buried around 3" deep in plasterboard, plaster, glass fibre and God knows what else - wattle & daub, probably. And cable conduits. Heavy mañana factor at work there.

Here you go  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0I8_9375Xs 

I have home-built flat-topped bench and the home-built MFT - with a dropped section between the two for the sliding mitre saw to sit on (with the cutting bed level with the two benches) - works a treat with some T-track in the flat topped bench to allow a fence to be clamped down aligned with the mitre-saw back fence.    I've also got a home-brewed dust extraction system using 40mm plastic waste pipe and a Henry vac (and now have a small cyclone and canister but have yet to connect them up) - there are ports for flexible hoses connected to the machines.

Rob

I like the bloke's duct-extraction gantry. I just use bungee cords & ceiling hooks.

Re benches, I discovered last year that one of mine has a crown in the middle that I should plane down, but it's a daunting job so I'm just using it for assembly etc. The alternative would be to change the top for an MFT...

[robgul]

Missed the cable-cutting video.

The things look well-suited to MFTs, especially with a set-up like Millard's. I have a couple of trad woodworking benches with tool trays at the back, and they don't lend themselves to it.  When I make the cut I have to get my body well out to the side to avoid getting caught on the front face-vice. It feels weird, and unsafe.

My bugbear project right now is wall-panelling. Been on it almost a year on & off, and am currently steeling myself to drill exploratory holes into a half-timbered wall whose timbers are buried around 3" deep in plasterboard, plaster, glass fibre and God knows what else - wattle & daub, probably. And cable conduits. Heavy mañana factor at work there.

Here you go  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0I8_9375Xs 

I have home-built flat-topped bench and the home-built MFT - with a dropped section between the two for the sliding mitre saw to sit on (with the cutting bed level with the two benches) - works a treat with some T-track in the flat topped bench to allow a fence to be clamped down aligned with the mitre-saw back fence.    I've also got a home-brewed dust extraction system using 40mm plastic waste pipe and a Henry vac (and now have a small cyclone and canister but have yet to connect them up) - there are ports for flexible hoses connected to the machines.

Rob

I like the bloke's duct-extraction gantry. I just use bungee cords & ceiling hooks.

Re benches, I discovered last year that one of mine has a crown in the middle that I should plane down, but it's a daunting job so I'm just using it for assembly etc. The alternative would be to change the top for an MFT...

CNC drilled MFT on ebay in MR MDF or plywood for about £50 - 60 - I had the MDF but on reflection the ply was worth the extra few quid as the dog-holes have become a bit tight - probably as it's in my garage (although that's accessed direct from the house and the boiler is in there so relatively warm)

Rob

[T42]

Finding the right search terms in French is a rat's nest.  So far I'm either getting Festool megabuck products, multimeters or hinges.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Refitted the BB in HK’s Kinesis in another attempt to stop a creak. Later this week, the frame will be refaced.

A couple of cassettes ordered to replace the worn out chain and cassette fitted at the end of March!

[SoreTween]

Found the Tandem Shaped Object had a flat tyre in the week, failed tube. So I toddled off to Parkend for a replacement pair, on the basis the rear is of an unknown age and it had mis-matched valve types.  This leads to:

Front brake adjuster bent to buggery, hammering a screwdriver into the gap was needed to get the cable out.  New one ordered.
Tyres disintegrating, rear popped off upon reinflating.  New pair of Big Apples ordered.
The rims are incredibly cheap, there's no hollow section to them so the spoke nipples poke well into the tube, this undoubtedly led to the tube failure.
I tried adjusting up the enormous slop on the rear hub & found it has a bent axle.

I can see me developing a real hatred of this bike.

[Mrs Pingu]

The Kenwood food processor/kitteh chkn whizzer/piña colada maker (26 yrs old in Sept) is leaving horrible white goo everywhere so I upended it to inspect the feet.
Yeucchh.
Obsolete model so no replacements at the usual suspects.
Ama3on has gereric silicon feet but of the wrong size (or hundreds for $lots)
Eventually to the bay of e, for £notmuch. I expect they'll do, even if Superglue is required.

[Dave_C]

The Kenwood food processor/kitteh chkn whizzer/piña colada maker (26 yrs old in Sept) is leaving horrible white goo everywhere so I upended it to inspect the feet.
Yeucchh.
Obsolete model so no replacements at the usual suspects.
Ama3on has gereric silicon feet but of the wrong size (or hundreds for $lots)
Eventually to the bay of e, for £notmuch. I expect they'll do, even if Superglue is required.

We changed the resistors, capacitor and regular on our aged KW as it was starting to smoke. Works fine again now, and was a cheap fix, there are lots on the web for a few pounds.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

[neilrj]

The Kenwood food processor/kitteh chkn whizzer/piña colada maker (26 yrs old in Sept) is leaving horrible white goo everywhere so I upended it to inspect the feet.
Yeucchh.
Obsolete model so no replacements at the usual suspects.
Ama3on has gereric silicon feet but of the wrong size (or hundreds for $lots)
Eventually to the bay of e, for £notmuch. I expect they'll do, even if Superglue is required.

We changed the resistors, capacitor and regular on our aged KW as it was starting to smoke. Works fine again now, and was a cheap fix, there are lots on the web for a few pounds.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

White goo? that might be gearbox oil from overheating as no cooling from collapsed feet?

These guys have lots of Kenwood fixes:-

https://www.kenwoodchefrestore.co.uk/shop/Kenwood-Chef-Repair-Kit/Kenwood-Chef-Major-Repair-Service-Kits/kenwood-chef-motor-replacement-a901-upgrade-kit-part

Their new 1kW 'digital' motor is the canine sphericals, lots more oomph (and pulse) and no faffy resistors or caps to wrestle with either.

[andytheflyer]

These guys have lots of Kenwood fixes:-

https://www.kenwoodchefrestore.co.uk/shop/Kenwood-Chef-Repair-Kit/Kenwood-Chef-Major-Repair-Service-Kits/kenwood-chef-motor-replacement-a901-upgrade-kit-part

Their new 1kW 'digital' motor is the canine sphericals, lots more oomph (and pulse) and no faffy resistors or caps to wrestle with either.

Thx for that - not seen them before.  I've done the motor fix before, works fine, but hadn't seen those splashguards - will order one.  They don't have the cover for the potato peeler attachment though - no-one does. 

[bhoot]

Hmmm, have 50 year old Kenwood lurking in the kitchen. Time to get it out I think.

[andytheflyer]

Hmmm, have 50 year old Kenwood lurking in the kitchen. Time to get it out I think.

Ours was a wedding present, 43 years ago next month. It's always been on the worktop and gets used several times a week, peeling spuds, mashing spuds, mixing flapjack, making cakes.  In January, it has a hard week every year making 5kg of marmalade!  You can buy second hand attachments, generally very cheaply, off FleaBay.  Not the spud peeler though - they seem to go for silly prices for some reason.

I've refurbed it a couple of times in that period, latterly with the electronics to repair the routine slow-running and no speed control bug.  The kit is about a tenner.  Solder-it-yourself.

[T42]

Investigating why my chain is silent when I'm sitting down & pedalling but noisy when I stand up.  RD looks a bit out of whack... 

[Mrs Pingu]

Re the Kenwood replies;
I can vouch for Kenwood Chef Restore having used them previously for my Chef, they fitted a new motor and gave it a service & new feet at the same time. (I reckon it's as old as I am).

The problem I have currently is on a food processor, not a mixer, and the parts are still non existent. Yes, it's definitely the feet that are perished. (The feet you can get for the Chef are too small for my food processor).

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Replaced a pair of ceramic brake pads on HK’s trike and adjusted the headsets of her trike and Kinesis.

[Ashaman42]

Pedals off and on. Cranks off. Bottom bracket out. Bottom bracket back in. Cranks on.

The bike I replaced the whole drive train on a couple weeks ago developed a once per pedal stroke, only under high/slow load click on Saturday.

A quick ride round the block and it appears sorted but will see. Last time it took a couple weeks to appear...

[Diver300]

I've been doing a back-to-back comparison on whether I prefer swearing at solder blobs on nasty^[1] prototyping boards, or arsing around in CAD.

CAD is winning on burnt fingers and de-rats-nesting, but with postage being what it is, solder blob technology may have substantial advantage in turnaround time...

Ultimately, through converting the former to the latter, I discovered an error in my circuit design, and that it was only working due to an errant solder blob.  Of course, I may have introduced some new ones...

_{[1] The horrid ones where each hole has its own bit of copper and you have to link them together, rather than stripboard.}

CAD wins everytime.

Tho it seems once you get small enough, surface mount circuits seem to be made entirely out of pingfuckits...

Todays effort...



J

About 10 years ago, I had to design in a Li-Ion charging IC. I chose one that was 3 mm square, 16 pads on 0.5 mm centres around the edges, and a thermal pad underneath (L6924 for anyone playing along at home). It's completely impossible to use without a dedicated PCB, and needs a hot air gun to unsolder.

Why did I chose on so small?

It was about the largest one that I could find that was readily available.

Vero board is completely redundant for stuff like that.

The L6924 has now been joined by a tilt sensor, also 3 mm square. Again, larger ones just don't exist.

[The Family Cyclist]

Adjusted the disc brake in friends bike which I had fitted a new wheel to on weekend after his old one had a free hub seize.

Cleaned the filter on the washing machine as was so blocked up couldn't drain properly and displayed an error message

All good me thinks. Message mate to say your bikes done and he replies that he is very sorry for the rear derailleur on the bike I've lent him while fixing his one has come off. Hopefully it's just the hanger or the bolt on the derailleur but I did actually check them not long ago and seemed fine

[rafletcher]

Yesterday I spent a mainly pleasant 3 1/2 hours removing the black vinyl wrap the previous owner had had applied to the chrome trim and grille of my car. My, but the wooden stool is hard on the nether regions for extended periods of time!

[Deano]

Cleaned and re-fitted my front mech with copious amounts of carbon assembly paste which will hopefully stop it slipping.

Also re-built my rear wheel which I'd made a shit job of in the first place.

[Dave_C]

Cleaned and re-fitted my front mech with copious amounts of carbon assembly paste which will hopefully stop it slipping.

Also re-built my rear wheel which I'd made a shit job of in the first place.

Carbon assembly paste? What is that for? Never heard it. Rebuilt a few wheels as second time after a crap first job too. Know how you feel.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

[Deano]

Oh, you need something to help grip on carbon without over-torquing it. New to me too, really.

[Dave_C]

Ah, I popped a piece of helicopter tape on the seat tube where the front mech clamped on. Appears to have held ok over the last 15 months.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

[Deano]

That's plan B

[Deano]

Since that all seems to work, I serviced the front hub on my Surly.

My first mistake was doing it out on the decking, but I didn't lose any bearings when the inevitable happened.

My second mistake was storing the tube of grease next to the tube of carbon assembly paste.

My third mistake... Well, you can guess the rest, but it flushed out ok, and it's running smoothly now.

[Dave_C]

(near) Final work on my resprayed Dawes Galaxy. Fettled the mudguards, removed them (peeled the blue film off) then fitted them back on.
Fitted the brakes, the front mech and the cables to the mechs. The front didn't work when tried so I had to faff the feckin cable out of the Sora R3000 STI, a balls ache.
Then wheels fitted, chain on and test ridden. Now I just need to be happy with the STI placement as the bartape is Brooks so it needs to be right or it'll be expensive.
Tomorrow, bartape and fettle the chrome mudguards to stop them rattling from somewhere.

I bought some new decals also, online. I chap in Oxford will do any text in any font. So instead of Dawes Super Galaxy, I have Dave's Super Galaxy in the same font.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk