The story of my little trip to Holland by Brompton ( pictures at the bottom)
Day oneThe predicted " Moderate to rough" seas felt very much at the "rough" end from my cabin, and a pretty sleepless night was had. Not seasickness, just all of the banging, dipping, swelling, braking and shaking that gave no peace. At one point I even thought of using the top bunk to see if it made a difference! After generous buffet breakfast and endless cups of coffee I quickly packed and got to my bike. Whilst waiting to disembark I had a good chat to an Irish guy who was heading for Germany on a very fully laden tourer. Quickly through passport control, and with a little diversion in Hoek itself to get some cash, I got back to my GPS route, which incidentally I got from this site
Fietsrouteplanner Fietsersbond, Fietsplatform en NBTC - knooppuntennetwerk en Landelijke Fietsroutes where they are all GPS routes for cyclepaths, can be downloaded, and proved to be absolutely accurate.
I headed down my first Dutch cyclepath and into the dunes and straight into the wind. The weather had forecast 30kmh headwinds all day, and this certainly felt like that! After passing the Irish Guy again, and exchanging a few colourful words about the wind, I headed into Scheveningen. The GPS track made easy work of a route through back streets and paths and I soon popped out into the dunes on the other side and back into wind so strong I could only just about manage double figure speeds. Of course, it then started to rain, but thankfully it was only a short downpour and I then made slow but steady progress to Noordwijk through stunning dunes, along quiet paths and sleepy seaside towns like Katwijk. After riding the length of the seafront at Noordwijk at less than 5 mph and sheltering a couple of times from little blasts of rain, I sat on a bench and decided I couldnt keep doing this all day. I planned to take a detour inland, using my phone for navigation , and catch a train at Voorhout to Haarlem and repick up my route from there. I felt a bit bad about dodging out , but the wind was just too strong. About 2 miles later I passed under the N206 main road and spotted a cyclepath sign " Haarlem 22" so changed my plan. The wind was less strong here inland and there were trees and buildings , so more shelter. What followed was a fantastic ride through pretty little villages and verdant countryside on very quiet lanes and beautiful cyclepaths until I picked up fietsknoopunt 76, from there I followed this excellent system back to my original route. Each point is signed to the next point , so with a map of the points it follow the numbers, 76 - 72 - 82 - 35 - 20 - 34 I then picked up my original route which took me through the national park, with hills and wild deer, and no people! a quick blast through the streets and schoolchildren leaving school, all on bikes, I got to the ferry across the Nordzeekanaal. The Gps route led me nicely through Beverwijk to Heeskerk and the 13th century castle that was the hostel and my accomdation for the night. A welcomed shower ( to get the sand off!) and a big meal of pasta, more pasta, and salad I went for a walk into the town then headed for bed. Despite the wind a great days cycling. I was massively imp[ressed by the infrastructure, and the way in which bikes are so totally integrated into the transport system and indeed get preferential treatment. Superb
Day twoAfter another generous breakfast and lots of coffee I got moving and after retrieving my bike from the Hostel lock up amid two hundred schoolchildren , who were arriving at the hostel ( was I glad I was going!) I headed directly out of Heemskeerk and was soon on quiet country lanes. After a brief shower ( the last rain I would see all day!) and a hide under a tree I again revelled in the superb paths and quiet and picturesque villages. The Brompton was performing faultlessly. It was comfortable,great fun to ride, although maybe not as quick as a "proper bike" but then I wasn't in a great rush.
After coming out of a village I hit a t junction, the GPS track said straight on, but straight on was a canal! with the paths only going left or right. I took the left path, but stopped and looked again as the GPS tracks had been faultless to this point. On the far bank I noticed a small flat deck ferry, so went back to the t junction. half hidden behind a fence and some hedge was a blue machine with a rotary handle. I couldnt read the signs but it was obvious it was a self powered ferry. 5 minutes of hard cranking brought the ferry to the bank I was on, another 5 minutes got me to the other side.
From there some lovely cyclepaths, a ferry ( powered and driven by a ferryman this time) a cafe and a bit of a tailwind took me to Edam.
A beautiful little town, with only a couple of touristy shops, but lots of lovely small house lining a canal through the centre. I stopped by the canal for a coffee and caught up on some texts from home.
What followed can only be described as the best few hours cycling I have ever done, I retraced my tracks fow a mile until a left turn. This was an arrow straight path, which became a road a bit further up, which didnt have a bend or corner for over 8 miles. Alongside the quiet road were lots of really nice houses, all behind a small canal, lots with boats, lots with very well tended garden , but all very well kept and smart. Progress was made quite quickly here until the turn took me along another long straight , maybe four or five miles long ( they like straight roads here obviously!) to another ferry and another wide and superbly surfaced canal side path. This I followed until another ferry took me back across the canal and dropped me right on a cyclepath that would take me to Zeeburg.
The path followed a small canal, with water lilys and heron on my side and the back of an attractive chalet park, all very well kept and tidy, with old men fishing, or messing with boats. After a mile or so a bend in the path put me next to the main road, and the gates of the chalet park, which evidently was called Kweek Lust. I had to take a photo!
Some big road bridges with excellent paths at the side followed until I was on a wide and well used cyclepath/ footpath by a major canal , with really big barges masking there way up and down. As i got further away from Zeeburg the number of people using the track got less until I was again cycling almost by myself.
Another big bridge , with a two lane cyclepath so excellent I thought I should take some pictures and send them to the Humber bridge board to shame them!
A turn onto quiet lanes took me through Muiden ( where I only saw the castle on riding away ) and Muiderberg another neat and tidy little village, to Naarden, and the Spanish Star fort.
Although endowed with massive battlements, it was difficult to get an idea of the star, just because of the scale, so I headed into the town and had a ride round. It was quite busy, obviously a tourist trap with day trippers, so I found coffee and contemplated my next move.
I did have a place booked at the Stayok hostel in Volenpark, Amsterdam, but to be honest I didnt fancy another night in a hostel, and my average speed so far would have left me little time to see Gouda the next day, and get back to Hoek on time to get the ferry.
I looked up as hotel in Gouda I'd seen the website for previously, gave them a call and got my room reserved. With any time pressures now taken away I headed into Bussum to the station, but first spent a little time buying a snack or two from and excellent bakery! On arrival at the station I bought my ticket,attached the shoulder straps to my S bag and handlebarbag, folded the Brommie and waited the five minutes until the train to Utrecht arrived. 45 minutes and one change of trains I arrived in Gouda. Again using my phone for navigation I headed for the hotel, where i was warmly greeted, a locked garage opened and secured for the Brommie and a shower and change to normal clothing had.
Soup and Pizza al fresco in the main square, overlooking the town hall which is just one of the most stunning buildings Ive ever seen, left me revived and happy so I had an hours wander round the town then back to the hotel and bed
High points
The coffee
the superb cyclepaths
The riding
The town hall at Gouda
Last dayAfter yet another generous breakfast ( what is it with the sprinkles on bread though?) I headed for the train. I had to be in Hoek for midday ish which didnt leave me lots of time. I could have ridden the whole 38 miles from Gouda but at the average speeds I had been achieving I would have felt the time pressure, so opted to go part way by train. I was on holiday after all!.
Easy train to Den Haag centraal, then a simple connection to Delft really showed the worth of using a Brompton for touring. Arriving at 10.00am in Delft I had a couple of hours to ride twenty miles so could afford to take it easy and just enjoy it. And enjoy ot I did. A lovely picturesque and pretty run out of Delft then across country through lots of greenhouses, the riding qas very flat and very quiet, the sun shone, there was little wind and I really didnt want this to end! Unfortunately , all too soon I was by the river and heading towards the ferry, arriving early, which gave me time for more excellent coffee! Whilst waiting round bored for the check in gates to open , I rode my bike up onto the station platform ( this is right next to the terminal building) and got stopped by a reporter and cameraman making a film for a Dutch railway museum, and gave an on camera interview about my trip, the use of the ferry and the use of the trains, all of which I was quite enthusiastically positive about. They even filmed me riding away on the Brommie to get an " action shot"!!! The ferry trip home was great, I paid a bit extra for a cabin so I could get cleaned up and have a snooze, and seven hours later, arrived at Harwich just as the sun was setting. A great day and a great few days cycling. I cant wait to go back and do more, I loved it.
PhotographsBefore going I tried the Brommie with all of the intended luggage. It was good
About 10 minutes after leaving the ferry I saw my first windmill
A few minutes later I saw my first proper windmill
I saw some other Cyclists in the dunes
Umm yes it was very very very windy, weather report said 30kmh. headwind
I got here and rode at 4.5mph up the front
I then got here, by a
circutuitous longer sheltered route away from the coast
I crossed the NordzeeKanaal on the ferry
and stayed here. Slot Assunberg the Stayok Hostel
On day two I saw another windmill (or two)
and used a self powered cranked ferry
And rode on lots of cyclepaths like this
and saw lots of lovely little villages like this
Until I got to Edam
Where I parked like a BMW driver
and drank coffee next to the canal
I then rode this path/road which was completely straight for over 8 miles
I saw a holiday cabin camp call Kweek Lust ( well it was near Amsterdam!!)
And passed a bloomin big castle
And got to the Star Fort at Naarden. The ramparts looked like this
It had a lovely church, where they had a photo exhibition on
I then caught the train from Bussum
to this hotel in Gouda
Then ate pizza in front of the town hall, which has to be one of the most photogenic buildings ever
On day three I caught the train to Delft. There were bikes parked outside the station. everywhere
The route out of Delft was really picturesque
And some of it couldnt have been anywhere else
It was very flat. This was the biggest hill all day
But riding up and down this bridge gave me a challenge
A bit later I saw a horsey mini me
And got to Hook of Holland and my ferry, which was quite big.
I then came home and was sad, because I'd had a great time and loved every minute of it. The cycle path network is superb and the integration of the bike into everything is fantastic. I want to go back and do it all over again, but for longer.
