Fitting Marathon Pluses - what's the secret?

[Tiger]

Firstly, you gotta look like this:

How does growing a silly goatee help with putting tyres on?

[Valiant]

My Speedlevers are bordering on 3 years old and still working fine. The bastid combo was GP3000s and Gipiemme Tecno T30s wheels. Everytime I got a puncture meant a new steel lever. They use to bend more than a camp gay thing.

[Regulator]

I must admit I don't really have a problem getting Marathon Pluses on...

...getting them off is another matter, as Notsototalnewbie will testify.  She and I spent about 20 minutes once trying to get one off after a puncture.  We broke two plastic tyre levers.  I now have levers that have a metal core.

Sweetheart...I'm fairly sure they were Conti Sport Contacts, were they not? I think this because as we struggled manfully, I made sure to make a note of the name.

That was such a fun end to a first date  The Chelsea supporters were really helpful, too...

You are indeed correct sweetness.  They were Conti Sport Contacts.... they are now plant support bands.

[Biggsy]

Nightmare of a job this evening fitting a 700x28 M+ to an A719 rim - worse than 700x38 on MA2 which I managed previously without busting anything.

The bead seems too large at first, but then much too small and incredibly tight when you get to last bit.

I eventually got the tyre fitted using a re-useable cable tie and a thin Specialized tyre lever, but not before snapping a more ordinary lever and putting numerous holes in three inner tubes as I couldn't help pinching them with the lever.  Problem solved in the end by using a tube one or two sizes "too small" to completely tuck it in out of the way.

The cable tie really helps a lot - thanks to Craig et al for that top tip.  Now I know what to do and have the right levers, it wouldn't be too much hassle by the roadside.

[border-rider]

I found that getting them on the second time was an awful lot easier

[mattc]

These are the 700 x 25 version - the casing is so stiff and springy that I can't even get it started on the rim.  Either the other side slips over the edge or it pops straight out.  It actually seems to be a really loose fit, but compressing it sideways to try and get the bead into the rim is near-impossible.

UPDATE:
I've just refitted a 700x25 after its summer break. Possibly the 3rd fitting for this tyre. Absolute piece of pi55.

Only tyre on this rim that has not needed levers, and none of the 'loose fit' problem.
(Mavic Open-PRO I think).

[Chris S]

Yes, absolutely. Third winter for my Audax bike too - fitted them last weekend and it was easy peasy.

[tonyh]

VAR tyre levers. I know they've been mentioned on this thread already, and on similar previous ones, but I'm surprised they are not mentioned more often. They do solve the problem when it's a particularly tough one.

[Biggsy]

The tightness of a tyre fit depends as much on the rim as the tyre.  They both can vary in diameter from what they are supposed to be.  The nightmare combination of course is an undersized tyre and an oversized rim.  Dimensions vary from model to model and sample to sample - explaining the different experiences of different people.

A cable tie and Specialized Pry Babies levers are what I recommend for M+ when it is a tight fit.  When it comes to the difficult last bit, be patient and insert only one or two cm of bead at a time.  As usual with difficult things, it's solved by technique rather than strength.  You don't actually need a strong tyre lever, just one that you can get under a tight bead easily.

[robgul]

The tightness of a tyre fit depends as much on the rim as the tyre.  They both can vary in diameter from what they are supposed to be.  The nightmare combination of course is an undersized tyre and an oversized rim.  Dimensions vary from model to model and sample to sample - explaining the different experiences of different people.

A cable tie and Specialized Pry Babies levers are what I recommend for M+ when it is a tight fit.  When it comes to the difficult last bit, be patient and insert only one or two cm of bead at a time.  As usual with difficult things, it's solved by technique rather than strength.  You don't actually need a strong tyre lever, just one that you can get under a tight bead easily.

.... a nylon toe-clip strap is part of my tyre fitting kit ... same principle as the cable tie but easier to work with - and less chance of cutting the tyre casing

Rob

[pcolbeck]

I find the problem with Marathons is not getting them on but getting them to seat evenly. It took me about 10 attempts to not have the tyre look like a 50p piece when inflated.

[Biggsy]

.... a nylon toe-clip strap is part of my tyre fitting kit ... same principle as the cable tie but easier to work with - and less chance of cutting the tyre casing

I can believe a toe strap does a good job, but there didn't seem any chance of cutting the casing with a cable tie when I used one.  It's not that delicate.

[Deano]

.... a nylon toe-clip strap is part of my tyre fitting kit ... same principle as the cable tie but easier to work with - and less chance of cutting the tyre casing

I can believe a toe strap does a good job, but there didn't seem any chance of cutting the casing with a cable tie when I used one.  It's not that delicate.

Rob could mean when cutting off the cable tie afterwards...?

A toe strap is also reusable.  It seems a bit wasteful to chuck away a couple of cable ties like this.

[Jaded]

Half an hour to put a Marathon on my lads 26" wheel.

Three zip ties, but no wastage as he can undo them without cutting them. We have still got to do the back wheel.

[robgul]

.... a nylon toe-clip strap is part of my tyre fitting kit ... same principle as the cable tie but easier to work with - and less chance of cutting the tyre casing

I can believe a toe strap does a good job, but there didn't seem any chance of cutting the casing with a cable tie when I used one.  It's not that delicate.

Rob could mean when cutting off the cable tie afterwards...?

A toe strap is also reusable.  It seems a bit wasteful to chuck away a couple of cable ties like this.

Actually I meant both .... a narrow cable tie exerts a lot of force on the tyre rubber ... although the cost is also an issue (esp if you buy cable ties at Maplin's prices )

Rob

[robgul]

I'm beginning to worry about these tyres ... a cycling pal gave me a pair  (700 x 32 I think) a few weeks ago - he said he didn't like them after about 100 miles ... perhaps he knows something I don't. 

I was going to fit them to my Galaxy for the winter (A719 rims) ... perhaps I'll rethink and put them on my seldom used trike instead.

Rob

[Biggsy]

A cable tie won't cut the tyre, and there are such things as re-useable ones.  These are just like normal cable ties, but with a little release lever.  You'll need quite a large wide one to get it tight.  Or use a toe strap instead if that works.

Once you've learnt how to fit the tyres, the only reason not to like them is that they are heavy and relatively slow.  You have to balance that against the exceptional amount of puncture resistance.

[clarion]

Cable ties can have sharp edges.  I've seen lots of times where a cable insulation's gone through cause some fool's done it too tight.  Toestraps are better.

[Biggsy]

A cable tie can be a lot tighter around a cable than you will ever get it around an uninflated tyre on a rim.  Becuase the tyre is uninflated, the cable tie can't press that hard against it, so it won't cut it.

I'm recommending a cable tie because I know it works even for an extreme case.  I didn't think of trying a toe strap on mine, so I don't know that they work just as well for extreme cases.  Perhaps they work even better if they grip better.

Cable ties can have sharp edges.  I've seen lots of times where a cable insulation's gone through cause some fool's done it too tight.

The edge of the cable tie could eventually wear away at cable insulation, but I've never managed to make one go through insulation straight away.

[robgul]

UPDATE - Fitted the 700 x 32 Marathon Plus tyres to my Galaxy - no problem, not quite "fingers only" but very nearly.

Rob

[DrMekon]

I find the problem with Marathons is not getting them on but getting them to seat evenly. It took me about 10 attempts to not have the tyre look like a 50p piece when inflated.

I thought it was just me. First time I did it, it felt like I was riding a clown's bike. Is there an easy fix? I just spent ages buggering about de/inflating and tweaking with lever. Miserable.

[pcolbeck]

I just did the same as you. Kept letting them down fiddling then re-inflating. Thank god for track pumps.

[Biggsy]

These things might help (if you are lucky):

Lube (pref chalk or talc) on the beads, over-inflation before re-inflation, different orientation.

[robgul]

These things might help (if you are lucky):

Lube (pref chalk or talc) on the beads, over-inflation before re-inflation, different orientation.

Orientation is specified on the tyre wall - although that's pretty academic for most bike tyres (cue : discussion on tyre direction ) 

.... and yes the over-inflate trick works - do that, let down, poke the valve bit around to get well inside the bead, inflate again to the right value - then do up the valve retainer thing.

Rob

[Biggsy]

I don't mean fit it back-to-front (although you could safely).  I mean fit it so a different part of the tyre lines up with the same part of the rim.  Rotate the tyre a bit, in other words.

It may be that the rim and/or tyre is slightly out of round, so a different alignment might help with any error.

orientation definition Dictionary.com

Some tyres you can never get near perfectly round - and you just have to accept it.  It would have to be pretty bad to feel it bumping up and down as you ride.  You won't notice a small amount of error (unless you imagine it).

A bump at the valve indicates trapping.  Push valve well into the tyre before fitting the beads at that point.