Monday 26th OctoberMy landlady in Coldingham was quite concerned that I didn't want a full cooked breakfast, and insisted on sending me off with sandwiches, crisps, tunnocks tea cakes and juice - which was very kind of her, especially as the breakfast was still a generous plate-full.
Saturday was the only day I had rain, but today I had sunshine - chilly air, but welcome. A long (9km) but steady (150m gained) climb on a lovely quiet lane started the day. The wind farm at the summit gradually getting closer, but visible for much of the way - apart from a short section of pine scented woodland.
HuxtonAfter a brief pause at what felt like the top (photo above) the route joined a quiet A-road, which was false-flat rather to the real top, with open moorland and then the wind farm finally arrived.
Penmanshiel Wind Farm
Penmanshiel Wind FarmThe road then headed down for 5km of easy, fast, smile inducing rolling with an opening view of the coast and Torness power station.
Torness PointI missed the turn off the main road while being overtaken, but caught it before the climb back become too painful. I spotted a bike following, so took it easy. Then the road dived steeply down with twists, so I took it even easier. This finished at, more or less, sea level with a choice of ford or bridge - I took the bridge and the tandem following me took the ford. On the other side we paused to say hello and enquire after each-others' routes. They came from Chichester (so near me) and had spent a bit over a week riding up from London. They set off before me, but we met again soon after and rode together chatting for a while. After short stretch of connecting lanes and routes we joined a cycle path beside the A1, and on a fairly level road they soon pulled away.
I rode past the nuclear power station, referring the scenery back to Saturday's ride; and then onto another coastal nature-reserve style leg near Barnes Ness - although with added cement works.
Barnes NessThe route then went through Dunbar, John Muir's birthplace, before joining a bit of a stretch of road and shared-use path beside the road riding. These were busier roads (though quite ridable) with high hedge blocking any view, so was probably the least interesting part of the ride. Almost at the end of this I had my only properly scary moment of the ride, when a sharp left turn with a wall obscuring the view of the road I was joining turned me into a narrow road with an immediate single-lane under a bridge and a car occupying the middle of the road. We both stopped with room to spare, but I'm glad I didn't have others following close behind.
From DunbarThe payback came on turning inland, on a very small road along the side of a valley. With autumn colours in the trees and a view over the valley this was a joy to ride - and I had the road to myself for at least 4km and it remained quiet and lanesy for another 4km. I paused by Hailes Castle to enjoy half of my enormous sandwich in the quiet and the sun.
Hailes CastleThere was a little town riding through Haddington, where schools seemed to be finishing although it felt early for this, and then onto an old railway track, with dirt and autumn leaves under wheel and a Buzzard in the sky. This, naturally, had a very gentle gradient up and then down, making for an enjoyable run down to where the line would have joined the line which still exists at Longniddry - which is about 50m after the turn off.
Haddington - Longniddry TrackThen there was another coastal stretch with an off-road path, a pair of harbours at Cockenize, and directions offered rather than asked for by one old man - helpful all the same.
CockenzieAnother road stretch through Prestonpans, and then onto a long curving track through the last of the wild places with a view across the water towards Leith, with clouds and the sun being dramatic for me. This day didn't feel like it had so much obviously photogenic scenery and more road riding, but it did have some lovely vistas that will be remembered even if they don't photograph well (by me).
Across The Water From PrestonpansInto Musselburgh the roads got busy and seemed to wind through housing estates more than was was possible without recrossing my tracks. It is hard to avoid the outskirts of a city when aiming for the centre, but they don't make for the most scenic riding. Sticking to cycle paths in an unfamiliar place probably exacerbates the winding, but does mean not navigating while in a flow of traffic - and of course these routes will primarily serve the everyday cyclist, not the tourist, so run through housing estates. In any case, the route eventually ran through open areas, round the foot of Arthur's Seat, uphill through the Innocent Railway Tunnel (an impressive experience), then into more central roads, a park and up a stiff climb to The Mound. Down then up again to Princes Street, where the traffic was moving so slowly I got off and walked to get to Princes Street Gardens for a couple of final photos to show I got there.
Scott Monument, Edinburgh
My Bike in Princes Street Gardens, EdinburghThe I pushed down to Waverley station. I'd have liked to have explored a bit more, but the left luggage was expensive (though staffed by a friendly cyclo-tourist) and my bike lock better suited to quiet stops in the country than a city station. So, I locked up for a couple of hours during rush hour and went for a shower; wrote post-cards to catch the 6:30 post (and so arrive home before me), a few touristy gifts and some food. Then I reclaimed my bike and wrote up the day's ride in the waiting room.
At 11pm it was time to board the sleeper back to London. I've been on European sleepers as an adult, but the last time I took one to or from Scotland the family car was on board too and I was young enough to imagine that the route went via Bahrain (where my Dad had worked for some months). The buffet car seas were busy by the time I got there, so I got some food and headed back to my (single occupant) berth. Then, I changed into my pyjamas and drank a couple of glasses of wine, watching the nighttime scenery glide by the window and remembering a great four days of riding and scenery.
Day 4 ride: 89km with 1100m of ascent in 7 hours 29 minutes.
Tuesday 27th OctoberThe train arrived ahead of time, I loaded up and rode to St. Pancras. After some hanging about, on seats not really designed for extended use, for a bike friendly train I headed home with a couple of editions of
The Bike Show for company. A quick ride from the station and I was back with the family in time for lunch.
There were no injuries. I could tell I'd had more exercise than usual, but nothing annoying. The frozen shoulder I'd been suffering from when I left hadn't been aggravated by my riding position and if anything was better than before. On unpacking I found only a few unused items: toolkit and spares, pump, first aid kit, emergency toilet roll, warm hat, neoprene overshoes, one short sleeve cycling top, one ordinary t-shirt and a mini tripod. On closer inspection one spoke on the rear wheel had gone, but I suspect this happened on the bike rack at Edinburgh. Otherwise the bike, although undoubtably heavier than a road tourer, was comfortable and felt like the right choice.
All in all, a great little tour. Just easy enough that it was enjoyable, just long enough that I was taking it easy and enjoying it but also felt like I'd gone somewhere. Just far enough from home to be different, but close enough that travel wasn't stressful. Some marvellous variety between industry, towns, open seascapes and quiet lanes. Each day had brought wonderful moments of solitude to enjoy being in beautiful places. Each place I stayed worked out well and I'd recommend all of them (Travelodge showers notwithstanding). I'm now curious about the section of route 1 that I didn't take from Berwick, and how it carries on north from Edinburgh.