Steel - is it real?

[Stuart Anderson]

Not had a steel bicycle for over 25 years and don't suppose I ever gave this a second thought... But rusting. Is it worth the worry? The Internet being what it is, there's plenty of doom and gloom but I'm aware bad news tends to travel faster and further.

For no other reason I fancy a change/n+1 and have my eye on the Spa Elan 725 mk2 (when they come back in stock).

It'll be used for Audax and very regular commuting come rain or shine. Am I/it going to die!?

Thanks, Stuart.

[Wowbagger]

I think steel is the best all-round material for frames. And no, rust is most unlikely to be a problem. My steel-framed Thorn has been a good friend for almost 18 years and I've done over 41,000 miles on it. Easily good for another 41,000 but I'm not likely to live anywhere near long enough to make much of a dent in that.

[mrcharly-YHT]

Not had a steel bicycle for over 25 years and don't suppose I ever gave this a second thought... But rusting. Is it worth the worry? The Internet being what it is, there's plenty of doom and gloom but I'm aware bad news tends to travel faster and further.

For no other reason I fancy a change/n+1 and have my eye on the Spa Elan 725 mk2 (when they come back in stock).

It'll be used for Audax and very regular commuting come rain or shine. Am I/it going to die!?

Thanks, Stuart.

I have a steel genesis in 725. It's been my main bike for years, neglected and not cleaned enough. Paint job is carp and there are lots of spots touched up with hammerite (reason 1 of why black is a good colour for frames).

The rust problem is overstated, I expect steel to outlast aluminium or carbon. Aluminum also corrodes, particularly from road salt. Carbon is susceptible to abrasion and crush damage.

The downside is that steel is heavy and not as 'lively' as carbon.

[Hot Flatus]

As above. If you want something exciting and sporty, steel is not it. Aluminium is a good compromise between worry-free nature of steel and snappy ride qualities. Its cheap, and although it has a finite life you are unlikely to arrive at that point. Carbon can be, by some margin, the most exciting to ride, but it is expensive and far more easy to damage.

There's a reason why the old Ribble 7005 audax frames were so popular.

[trundle]

Not had a steel bicycle for over 25 years and don't suppose I ever gave this a second thought... But rusting. Is it worth the worry? The Internet being what it is, there's plenty of doom and gloom but I'm aware bad news tends to travel faster and further.

For no other reason I fancy a change/n+1 and have my eye on the Spa Elan 725 mk2 (when they come back in stock).

It'll be used for Audax and very regular commuting come rain or shine. Am I/it going to die!?

Thanks, Stuart.

I've got a mk1 725 Elan, and I expect it to give me at least 20 years cycling without worrying about rust problems. Component obsolescence will limit or stop play long before frame rust does, or I'll lose interest and sell it for something else - possibly with a battery if I become too feeble to cycle as long as I want under my own power.

With normal ownership, frame rust is not going to stop play. There are loads of decades old retro steel racing frames for sale on ebay.

Even tough/abusive ownership takes a while to rust an average steel frame - my 20 year old Dawes Galaxy is nothing fancy, but even rust didn't finish that: A weak spot at the seat stay did... made worse by carrying a heavy single pannier. It spent lots of time living outside. Some years not moving at all. Ridden in all conditions, road floods, turbo trainer sweat etc etc. and frame rust didn't kill it.

Your average N+1 bike probably lives a very cosseted life, so frame rust isn't going to limit its life IMHO

[Stuart Anderson]

Thanks all. Already have steeds in carbon and aluminium and appreciate the input.

Reassured that I was just over-thinking it.

Need Spa to get some frame stock.

Thanks, Stuart

[Jethro]

For many years I only ever rode steel framed bikes and tried them all from 531 to 953 and everything inbetween.

I then discovered Titanium and now never ride anything else.

[sam]

My first ever bike was steal (an honest typo), as was the one I climbed aboard when reborn into the congregation (that would be this one). After that I tended to aluminium and troublesome ti, which has captured my heart for good, alas.



The last time I tried steel: https://jollygoodthen-75205.medium.com/woodrup-a19a06d2904e

[Afasoas]

Having ridden Steel, Ti, Alu and Carbon bikes, I think we, maybe, pay too much attention to frame materials.
I've had steel bikes corrode quite nastily - but they were already old, second hand to me and not necessarily that well treated.
My abused, ~30 year old straight gauge chromoly garage-stored hybrid is showing no signs of corrosion yet. And in the last ten years, I'm sorry to say, I've only properly cleaned it once.

[rogerzilla]

Rust is rarely structural unless it's something very thin like 753.  Not many of those left, as the chsinstays rot out.

[Ian H]

My 'best' bike (i.e. the most fun to ride) is a stainless-steel Hallett.  It's lighter than either of my Ti bikes - not that I have ever chosen components by weight.  Most of the 'feel' of a frame is down to build quality and design.  The actual material has little to do with it.

[zigzag]

spa cycles say that they coat/paint their frames using epd technique (both inside and outside i suppose), so that should make them less susceptible to rust than the average '80ies steel racer

[toontra]

The frames I've seen (and bought on ebay  ) that were destroyed by rust was due to water somehow getting inside (down the seatpost tube?) and collecting in the bottom bracket shell and chainstays, rusting from the inside out.  Presumably they'd been left outside for extended periods.

I now treat all my steel frames with the waxy spray before building them up.  No problems then.

[Paul H]

If the Spa Elan is the right bike for you, the difference in choosing the steel over the Ti will be around a 300g weight penalty and paint to scratch. There would be something wrong with their tubing selection if there was much difference in feel. 
Steel is still the preferred material for many small volume producers because it lends itself to short production runs and customisation.  The rest, at least between the metals, often comes from comparing dissimilar bikes. 

[Paul H]

spa cycles say that they coat/paint their frames using epd technique (both inside and outside i suppose)

I'd never heard of ED coating until a few years ago, now pretty much every steel frame from Asia has it.  It's a coating under the paint, so thin it can be used on steel steerers.

[yoav]

Rust is rarely structural unless it's something very thin like 753.  Not many of those left, as the chsinstays rot out.

I have a 27 year old 653 framed bike. This (well obsolete) tube set was a mixture of 531 tubes and 753 stays. It is still going strong with no sign of corrosion, even though it is now my commuting/shopping bike.

[paton]

For rust proofing Raleigh used to use a Spra-Bonderized process
https://www.icenicam.org.uk/library/Raleigh/Cycles_catalogue_1955.pdf
and dip the frames to paint them.

Five Land Bikes use
CATAPHORETIC E-COAT PRE-TREATMENT ON STEEL PARTS
https://www.fivelandbikes.com/services
We offer an E-coat pre treatment on all our steel parts ensuring they remain rust free for years. The parts a dipped to neutralise rust before a thin layer of paint is electrically applied inside and out.

https://www.euroqualitycoatings.co.uk/
https://www.euroqualitycoatings.co.uk/powder-coating-2/pretreatment/
https://www.euroqualitycoatings.co.uk/eqc-and-brompton-bicycles/

BTR fab
https://www.facebook.com/BTR.Fabrications/
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=746638220836475&set=a.558785129621786
Ambersil Tool Guard

Pegoretti
say
https://dariopegoretti.com/pegoretti-tech-notes
PRODUCT CARE

We recommend the use of either JP Weigle Frame Saver, CRC Protettivo per Nautica or a similar product with any steel frame. Frame Saver is a proven rust preventative that is applied to the inside of the tubes and eliminates the possibility of the frame rusting from the inside out. It is essential in areas with high humidity and/or a corrosive environment and highly recommended anywhere. Frame Saver is available at better bike shops everywhere.

It’s always a good idea to periodically inspect your frame inside and out for any damage or corrosion. Keeping your frame clean, especially around the cable stops and bottom bracket cable guide, will ensure that you spot any problem before it becomes serious. These areas can collect moisture and corrosives such as perspiration and sports drinks which can damage paint and if not corrected, eat into the metal.

In addition to keeping your frame clean, a coat of automotive wax applied regularly will reduce the possibility of damage from corrosion and ensure a long life for your frame. You should also periodically remove the seatpost from the frame and examine the inside of the seat tube for rust as well as lubricating the post with either a carbon paste (for carbon seatposts) or grease or oil for aluminum or steel seatposts. Lubricating the seatpost will ensure that it doesn’t gall with the seat tube becoming difficult if not impossible to remove safely. Periodic routine maintenance and inspection by an authorized Pegoretti dealer is advisable, especially if the frame has been involved in a crash or experienced potential damage.

Tubes can rust through, but can be repaired

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlJCzbARIeY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCUKKxvf7Zg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE8zDbvedcY

[mrcharly-YHT]

Genesis say
 

All of our frames are ED Black coated so are protected from rust.

They weren't coated when I bought my CDF, and the paintwork is very poor. Flaked off in large areas.

I have a mercian that is more than 20years older than the genesis and the only paint damage is due to impact of stones or chain.

[paton]

Steel can be recycled, and is recycled.

https://www.reynoldstechnology.biz/company-butted-steel-tubing/our-environmental-impact-study/

[Morat]

I love my steel bike. It has carbon forks, an 853 frame and 30mm tyres. Comfy, very good fun on descents and if it is slowing me down at all, it won't be slowing me down as much as my belly. I'm sure racing snakes get good value from carbon frames but if you're after a comfortable and reliable bike that will still zip along with the rest then I can see no downside in steel.

[Regulator]

I have steel and titanium steeds.  I think a carbon bike would crumble if I even looked at it...

[Hot Flatus]

I have steel and titanium steeds.  I think a carbon bike would crumble if I even looked at it...

If someone gave you a framer on the top tube, yes.

I won't be offering you one anytime soon 

[Hot Flatus]

I love my steel bike. It has carbon forks, an 853 frame and 30mm tyres. Comfy, very good fun on descents and if it is slowing me down at all, it won't be slowing me down as much as my belly. I'm sure racing snakes get good value from carbon frames but if you're after a comfortable and reliable bike that will still zip along with the rest then I can see no downside in steel.

...is exactly right. Its horses for courses. I still think if you are slim, supple, fit, and like to attack the roads carbon (and then aluminium) would  give a bigger smile.

I've taken to riding in towpaths and tracks with 40mm tyres recently. In those circumstances it doesn't matter what I ride

[Lightning Phil]

You just need to keep an eye on the frame. Doesn’t mean checking it every single ride. But just keep an eye on any paint chips or flaking and deal with it sooner rather than later.  I’ve just had my steel recumbent frame redone with a powder coat and lacquer.  Frame good as new. 

[fd3]

I still do my daily commute on the Pompino, which is steel and >20 years old.  But that's nothing to the bike we have in the outhouse which is my wife's grandfather's bike, which he had before he got married.  So, over 80  years old, steel, no rust.
I don't think rust is the issue you need to worry about.