It does great food though. Huffers, which seem to be a mid-Essex speciality. There are a few pubs around great Leighs which advertise them.
Simon Heffer dresses like a gentleman farmer - tweeds, brogues, cords. He's a red-hair, red faced bad-tempered looking git. He's actually about 6 years younger than I am: I remember him at school when I was in the upper sixth and he was an annoying tick of a first year. He hasn't changed, other than in size and shape.