OK - I have now finished all my research, test purchases and experiments and think I have got the answer I was looking for - a phone-based setup which is far better than the Garmin 1000, Garmin 1030 and Wahoo Element (however they spell it), which I have previously purchased, tried out and returned.
This project has rather been overtaken by events and I'm hardly able to ride at all at the moment, so the one thing I have not done is test my setup on long rides, nor in the rain, but I've done a few short rides and expect it will work well.
HardwareI am using a ruggedised, waterproof android phone with a 4-inch screen.

It has with a garmin mount stuck on the back so that I can mount it exactly where I used to mount my Garmin.

The phone is a Cubot Kingkong Mini.
https://www.expertreviews.co.uk/mobile-phones/1411672/cubot-kingkong-mini-reviewDespite the daft name, this is a pretty good, robust and waterproof phone which should be up to living on handlebars. It is almost exactly the same size as a Garmin 1030, but with bigger, and much better, screen. It's also not very expensive - mine cost $93 (£74) from AliExpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000203850799.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.393a4c4dIR5Jgk I see it's gone up slightly since I bought it.
Add a data card, case and stick-on garmin mount and the hardware cost was about £100.
I don't use this as a phone. It is just a cycling computer.
The main downside vs a dedicated GPS is battery life. I think I'll get about 6 hours of life in normal usage (not tested yet), which would be in aeroplane mode apart from bluetooth to get data from heart rate and power meters and with the screen on a low brightness setting.
For most of my rides - commuting and short training rides - that isn't an issue, but if I am going over 100km, I will need to carry a power bank. That is not a massive problem, as I have always had to do that for rides over 300km anyway.
I could extend battery life by turning the screen off and using voice directions. I could imagine doing this on long, straight, main road sections, but I wouldn't normally do it as one of my main requirements is to be able to see some data fields as I ride., and I prefer navigation by seeing a line on a map than voice prompts
SoftwareFinding the right app took far longer. I did a lot of searching, read lots of reviews (mostly written by people who had different criteria to me or, in the case of cycling magazines, had not used the app but had copy to write) and tried several options. Most of them are not expensive so I paid for a few of them to do proper testing. The main cost is not £ but the time it takes to learn how they work.
There isn't one perfect app but the two best ones that, between them, cover everything I need, are RideWithGPS and Cyclemeter [EDIT and BikeComputer]
I'm not doing in-depth reviews but here are some thoughts on these two and the others that I actually tried out.
1. RideWithGPS
https://ridewithgps.com/appI've actually been paying for this for the past year since my Garmin let me down on a 400km and I needed to set up another navigation method, but not using it. It is the best all-round app with pretty much everything I need, apart from one thing - a lap button. I only need this when I am interval training so, for other rides, it seems to be the best option. Key thing is that, with the paid version, it has offline maps.
Cost is $5.99 per month, or if you don't need offline maps, free. Potentially one could pay to use it over the summer for longer rides and using the free version in the winter.
2. Cyclemeter
https://abvio.com/cyclemeter/This is a really clean, intuitive interface. It is the only app that I have found that has a lap button, so it is what I use for doing intervals in Richmond Park. I would probably also use it for TTs, if I do them again. You get a large number of screens but there are two that I would use: One has a map plus 6 data fields and the other has 12 data fields - more than I would ever want - with no map. There are loads of other options including graphs and charts of all the metrics, but I can only ever imagine looking at an altitude chart, not the rest.
The only flaw with this is that it does not have offline maps. I emailed their support to enquire and they said it was on the horizon but not being worked on just yet.
Cost is £10 per year for the Elite version.
3. OSMAnd+
https://osmand.net/I have been using this for a few years. It has great maps, good navigation and can do ride logging but doesn't do cycling things like power. I'll still keep it for the maps. Because I know how it works, there is not any learning curve.
Cost is £5.99, one-time purchase
4. BikeComputer Pro
http://bikecomputer.roproducts.de/I thought this would be better than RideWithGPS as it would give me everything that RWGPS does but with more data fields for a tiny one-time cost. But it is not as intuitive and I found a flaw when I tested it:
a. While it is great for navigating in most directions (ie north, east or west) but, if you want to go south, you have only a tiny bit of map in front of you, as the data fields hide the screen! You can minimise the data fields, but that was one of my criteria. EDIT - I discovered this can be changed in the settings which may make it a viable option.
NB, not to be confused with Bike Computer, which is completely different and doesn't do navigation.
Cost is £5.49, one-time purchase
5. Orux Maps
https://www.oruxmaps.com/cs/en/This is a great application which potentially does everything (apart from lap button). But it is too complicated and non-intuitive to be useful to normal people. I tried a month or so back; I spent about two hours on it, but I wasn't getting anywhere. But, not having found the perfect option, I had another go last night and spent another hour and a half on it. I still wasn't getting anywhere - in over 3 hours, I wasn't able to do what I could do on Cyclemeter or RWGPS in a few seconds, or a few minutes on BikeComputer - which was customise the home screen.
Eventually I found this critique, which made me realise it wasn't me being slow, it is just a usability disaster:
https://oruxmaps.forumotion.com/t2514-some-usability-observations. I think it is still good for mapping, just not practical to set it up as a cycling computer, and I already have OSMAnd for mapping.
Cost is £3.39, one-time purchase
6. Strava
This was one of the first I tried as I thought they would have this nailed, but was surprised how little functionality their app has. I can only assume that, because they partner with Garmin, Wahoo, etc, they have agreed not to eat their lunch!