Proofing waterproofs??

[Morrisette]

I am a touch confused (nothing new there).

When I buy a new set of waterproof trousers to replace my USELESS Endura ones*, do I have to put some waterproofing stuff on them? Wax or something? I've seen mentions of this on the forums. Should they not be waterproof already after all it says 'waterproof' on the label?! I've ordered some Montane Velo ones, after yet another soaking from the Great British Summer.

*the uselessness of waterproof trousers is a bit of a don't-get-me-started topic, but basically every pair I have bought has started leaking through the knee area after about 10 or 12 uses. Not the seams, the actual fabric on the knees. It seems to me that cycling-specific waterproofs should have strengthened fabric on the knee area as it is constantly moving and rubbing against other clothing - the Endura ones for example have really thin fabric on the knees that rubs though/breaks up and then starts to leak. And they are not especially cheap - I would not expect a bargain-basement pair of trousers from Primark to fall to bits after wearing them for ten half-hours, and these were 50 quid!

[Biggsy]

Waterproof products usually are supplied in a waterproof state already, and should need nothing added for some time, if ever.

There are various products that you can add to supposedly enhance the waterproof quality of things.  You need to check exactly what fabrics they're intended for.

[Butterfly]

You shouldn't have to waterproof them to start with. You do have to be careful laundering waterproofs, as some require tumble drying to re-activate the proof (e.g. Bikesters) and some lose their proof with dring. Fabric softener generally removes the waterproofing as well. Some should only use soap flakes and others non-bio  .

[Morrisette]

Ah right, I'm guessing from this that they are questionable? Generally I don't wash waterproofs...they aren't next to my skin and they are getting wet anyway right???

I've not done any audaxes in them or anything - maximum 15 miles mostly. And I don't sweat - I'm a laydeeee.

[Andrew Br]

Most waterproof fabrics are have the waterproofing layer bonded to the inside of the fabric so it won't easily wash off. On the outside of the fabric there is usually a non-wetting agent and it is this that washes off.
You can tell if this layer is still active by dropping some water on. If it soaks in*, the layer is gone. If discrete drops form, then it's still working.
There are wash-in and spray on additives to reactivate the surface. I've used both but I now stick with the spray on since they seem more effective.
These days I hand-wash my waterproof gear in Nikwax and, after a thorough rinsing, I spray it with the surface treatment then leave it to dry.
If you wash the jacket/trousers etc in the machine, it's important to run the machine through one or two empty cycles without detergent (hot is good as well). You need to remove the traces of the conventional detergents otherwise they will take off the non-wetting coating.

If your knees are getting wet in your trousers then there could be several reasons for this:-

• pressure is exceeding the "withstand" pressure of the coating forcing water through
• the coating is damaged

• it's not water getting in, it's sweat condensing on the inside of the fabric because it can't transmit through the membrane fast enough

*All other things being equal though, the water shouldn't go through to the inside of the fabric.

[Biggsy]

"Breathable and waterproof" is a difficult combination.  This may not always be the case, but generally I expect cheap non-breathable waterproofs to use fabric that really is waterproof, and so-called breathable waterproofs to not really be waterproof and not really be breathable in typical cycling use.

Waterproof, trousers and cycling is another difficult (sweaty) combination.  Rainlegs is an interesting alternative that keeps the rain off where you most need it to, whilst allowing ventilation elsewhere.  The downside is that they make you look like some sort of bondage freak.

[Greenbank]

I wash my Gore Alp-X Paclite jacket in Nikwax Tech Wash and then reproof it with Nikwax TX-Direct.

Usually do this about every 3 months or so (when the beading action starts to falter) and it brings it back to good as new. I also throw in some of my other cycling stuff such as the Montane Featherlite jacket, Endura leg/knee warmers and skull cap, plus some of my gloves. Works a treat.

Like others say, nothing is both breathable and waterproof, but I believe you get what you pay for. I love my Gore Alp-X jacket, it's kept my torso mainly dry for long rides in the rain (i.e. Bryan Chapman or last year's Dean) whilst not making me boil in the bag when the sun comes out (I wore it for the whole of both of those events, none of this on/off/on/off malarkey). The £40 Altura jacket I've got is utterly hideous, nicely waterproof but not breathable in the slightest.

Legs are a different matter, no point waterproofing them, better to use layers to keep them warm when they get wet (although by using TX-Direct it helps keep some of the water off for a while). I had Skins tights on underneath shorts and legwarmers. Soaked through but not a hint of cold.

[valkyrie]

Just accept that your legs will get wet and don't worry about waterproof trousers. As long as you're cycling your legs normally stay warm enough anyway.