Probably very basic question regarding gears

[Jon]

I just spent the last 2 hours following a guide to get gears working smoothly.

The back ones are a dream - but the front ones were the opposite.

I've got '105' levers and I wondered how many clicks I should be expecting (to jump between my two front chainrings) - I assumed (coming from an mtb) that I would have 2 settings - a click between the 2. I actually had 4 settings (3 clicks)
And now seem to have 3 (2 clicks) following my tinkering.

Anyone have any ideas please?

Also I don't have a twisty adjuster on my front derailleur - is that normal?!

And - final question - on the H/L adjustment screws how do I know which is which - and which direction moves each one each way.

Any help would be appreciated!

[drossall]

I'm no expert on 105, but here goes.

H/L adjusters - often, these are marked H and L of course. Presumably not in your case. I usually just peer inside the derailleur and hope to see which is against the stop. Or, put it in top or bottom. One screw will be hard to move - that's the one that does the end where the gear currently is, because it's against the stop, whereas the other is currently floating free. Or, in that position, try moving both screws and see which one causes the derailleur to move. Or if desperate Google the manual.

Yes, if I remember rightly, my Shimano shifters have more than two positions. Some ability to trim is needed, as the chain is in a different position when it runs to the inner versus the outer sprocket. Campag always had far more trim, which made tourists (with their wider gear ranges) often prefer it.

I've got adjusters where the cables leave the shifters. There's usually at least one in the system somewhere.

It may help to know which 105 you have  - at least how many sprockets on the cassette.

[Torslanda]

If you have fewer clicks than you started with then your base cable tension setting is too high. If you have no adjuster for cable tension it will be almost impossible to index the shifter properly, I'd suggest an inline adjuster like this.

To explain 'trimming' the front mech. The 'low' stop screw needs to be adjusted until the inner cage of the mech just clears the chain when running small/big (bootom gear). This should mean the chain rubs the tail of  the front mech outer plate when running small/small. The first click of the shifter must stop the chain from rubbing the outer, the second click should lift the chain from the inner ring to the outer

[Morat]

I have 11sp 105 on my Kona and I could swear the left levers are actually for a triple chainset. I don't mind, it's not hard to remember which chain ring I'm using but if I DO click the little lever too many times I have to remember it'll be a whole big lever swing to get back up to top.

[trekker12]

Also I don't have a twisty adjuster on my front derailleur - is that normal?!

Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be unusual. Mrs Trekkers Giant doesn't have one. When I built it I spent far too long trying to tension the cable by pulling with a pair of pliers, which does little more than damage the cable.

I subsequently put an inline cable tensioner into the cable holder on the down tube.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-inline-adjuster-gear-cable/rp-prod138599?gs=1&gclid=CKHbzqTO_M0CFeUy0wodSUgOuA&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Jon]

Thanks folks. I actually did have an adjuster at the lever end. All sorted now and seems to be performing beautifully. For now!

[freeflow]

The Shimano docs for setting up front and rear derailleur are actually very good. If they didn't come with the bike they are well worth downloading.