Author Topic: AndrewC's Flemish Frolic (Read 3111 times)

andrewc · « **on:** 30 August, 2014, 09:02:22 am »

On the train to Dover via Euston. Afternoon ferry to Dunkirk then onto the campsite at Gravelines. Over the border on Sunday & head to Ypres. The plan is to follow LF6 to Maastricht & then decide where to go next.
A shortage of campsites on this route, meaning some long days. I've packed a bivi bag in case I have to resort to Audax tactics

Canardly · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 August, 2014, 08:02:12 pm »

What is your opinion of the site at Gravelines, it gets very mixed reviews?

andrewc · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 August, 2014, 08:29:16 pm »

Relaxed journey & crossing. Last time I used the site at Gravelines it was very quiet (3rd week in Sept)
This time they've given me a pitch surrounded by bungalows & with a sodding disco over the hedge. !
Reception staff friendly, bar & shop on site, Unisex shower & toilet block with the pissoirs in full public view, & they maintain the charming Gallic tradition of "Bring your own bog roll"
It's not a place I'd go for a break, but as the first or last day of a trip it's tolerable.

andrewc · « **Reply #3 on:** 31 August, 2014, 07:07:48 pm »

On the road for 09:45 which is early for me! Got slightly lost leaving Gravelines then found the main road & took the turn off Rue d'Industrie, which despite its name is a quiet road the follows the River Aa inland through fields & marshes.

Picked up LF1, the North Sea Cycle route which took me to Watten. The only hill for miles & the road goes over it.

Through xxxxx where they were having a potato festival, town square heaving with people & cafés doing a roaring trade, too busy in fact so I had cheese & sausage at the side of the road!
Over the border & passed the Nine Elms cemetery, then the LF6 & it starts to get hillier. A Hommelbier at a bar outside Poperinge then more twisty back roads to Ypres.
I was the only small tent on the campsite last year, this time it's a lot busier.

Tent up & I'm cooking rice for tea. Tomorrow will be exploring Ypres, I only rushed through last time.

Weather warm & dry, big cloudscapes.

Canardly · « **Reply #4 on:** 31 August, 2014, 07:14:48 pm »

Local colloquial request for a draft (pils) bier is 'een pintje alstublieft'.

Regulator · « **Reply #5 on:** 01 September, 2014, 07:34:34 am »

Quote from: andrewc on 31 August, 2014, 07:07:48 pm

On the road for 09:45 which is early for me! Got slightly lost leaving Gravelines then found the main road & took the turn off Rue d'Industrie, which despite its name is a quiet road the follows the River Aa inland through fields & marshes.

Picked up LF1, the North Sea Cycle route which took me to Watten. The only hill for miles & the road goes over it.

Through xxxxx where they were having a potato festival, town square heaving with people & cafés doing a roaring trade, too busy in fact so I had cheese & sausage at the side of the road!
Over the border & passed the Nine Elms cemetery, then the LF6 & it starts to get hillier. A Hommelbier at a bar outside Poperinge then more twisty back roads to Ypres.
I was the only small tent on the campsite last year, this time it's a lot busier.

Tent up & I'm cooking rice for tea. Tomorrow will be exploring Ypres, I only rushed through last time.

Weather warm & dry, big cloudscapes.

If you haven't done it before, make time for the Last Post ceremony.

I'm jealous - I love the Ypres area...

andrewc · « **Reply #6 on:** 01 September, 2014, 08:22:17 am »

Last time I was here I rode into town just in time for the ceremony. I could hear it from the campsite last night. I'll probably go tonight after a wander around town & the Flanders Field museum.

Cool still night, tent is wet with condensation & there is a bit of morning mist.

andrewc · « **Reply #7 on:** 01 September, 2014, 07:40:11 pm »

A lazy morning reading ("Postwar" by Tony Judt) then wandered into town. A bowl of stew & chips with a bier in one of the places on the Grote Markt then a sobering tour through the "In Flanders Field" museum

A quick shop, back to the campsite for a lie down. Cooked then went back along the ramparts to the Menin Gate for the Last Post ceremony. Dead on 8 someone's phone rang....!

Canardly · « **Reply #8 on:** 01 September, 2014, 08:03:17 pm »

Keep an eye out for the demarkation stones by the side of the road on the Menin road and you will see how close the axis powers were to getting into the centre of 'Ypres'. Ieper.

Ivo · « **Reply #9 on:** 02 September, 2014, 07:18:17 am »

Just give a shout when you're reaching Maastricht. I live there and know my way around.

andrewc · « **Reply #10 on:** 02 September, 2014, 08:32:23 am »

Cheers Ivo. A very warm night, I had to get out of the sleeping bag & just had the liner on me. Today is grey & overcast. Just about to leave for Ronse.
The Ypres campsite is OK, but it's not quiet, it's within earshot of some heavy industry & busy roads. Luckily it all calms down at night. Facilities OK, costs reasonable €4

andrewc · « **Reply #11 on:** 02 September, 2014, 08:54:49 pm »

Well that was long, hot & sweaty. About 90k I reckon.
Warm & misty in the morning, low grey clouds.
Out of Ypres past a rather smelly lake, then onto quiet cycle lanes & back roads. The route goes past several military cemeteries including Chester Farm & York Dump,
The route then follows an abandoned canal with a cobbled towpath that had the bike rattling.

Just short of Kruiseke I felt the rear tyre go squidgy. I pushed into the village & fixed it in a bus shelter. I also bought a loaf of warm, sliced brown bread from a roadside vending machine! No wonder so many small shops are empty.

Into Wervik & the route was blocked by roadworks, I eventually picked it up and carried on along the banks of the river Leie.

The path along the river takes you past Menen, Wevelgem & through Kortrijk. It's flat & fast & very popular with cyclists!

At Kortrijk you leave the river then follow the Bossuit - Kortrijk canal, weather was now warm & sunny, lunch was bread & honey at the waterside. There's lots of tranquil water, but you go past lots of industry as well.

Near Ruien you see some lovely hills, yes, you guessed it !

I walked part of the way to the top & then got lost in a maze of twisty forest trails, all alike. It was 18;00 so I dropped to the main road and followed it to Ronse where I did some shopping. Out of Ronse to De Fiertel, a Belgian YHA that advertises camping, but no! Only pre booked groups :-(
I wave my YHA card & check in. There's a US couple in the place & that's it. Members kitchen is closed & evening meals also have to be pre booked. I cook pasta, mushrooms & eggs on my Trangia outside. The warden tells me to help myself from the bar & pay in the morning. That's dangerous !
Showered & clothes washed, hang them on the balcony.

I bought another litre of bloody buttermilk as well! Apparently the Belgians only drink UHT. This stuff isn't as bad as the stuff yesterday.

Tomorrow's planned route is 109 Km to a place called Hamme Mille South of Leuven, I'm not sure if I'll make it. This is a nice route , but the campsites are too far apart.

andrewc · « **Reply #12 on:** 02 September, 2014, 09:15:23 pm »

I'm also being bitten to pieces :-(
Must get OCD with the nasty chemicals!

Ivo · « **Reply #13 on:** 03 September, 2014, 06:52:45 am »

Continuing east you can pick up the last leg of one of my 200 audaxes: http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=drtvuplxnwmlemgb

andrewc · « **Reply #14 on:** 03 September, 2014, 08:22:36 pm »

Only about 70Km today, I'm planning routes my legs aren't up to! A cool overcast morning which became very warm & sunny about noon.
Breakfast at the hostel then paid & away. Climbing immediately on tiny lanes passing prosperous looking farms & houses. Very pretty countryside, lots of horses & cattle, I forgot to fill one of my bottles & suffer because of this. Vending machines sell beer, but I opt for Fanta today.
It's a very twisty route, which makes you ride a long way without covering much linear distance. Just before Leerbeek the route crosses the N28, I have a beer in a very "local" bar then decide to cut out 25 Km of minor road by following the N28 for 12km . This dumps me in Halle from where I ride to Hulzingen, there is a YHA marked on the map but apparently it's gone. I'm given directions to Camping Oasis, this is a bit run down & is all static caravans, but 8€ I'm not complaining too much. Pasta & sausage with lots of rehydrating tea.

andrewc · « **Reply #15 on:** 03 September, 2014, 08:29:23 pm »

Random observations: Flanders appears very prosperous, both Ypres & Kortrijk had impressive running tracks attached to local sports centres. General infrastructure appears in good nick, some of the country roads are bad, but I'm riding the least trafficked ones!
Lots of new houses going up, individually designed & a decent size (am I riding through the local stockbroker belt ?). Small stores & bars seem to be having a bad time though, lots closed.

Canardly · « **Reply #16 on:** 03 September, 2014, 08:35:38 pm »

The houses are pretty fantastic generally. Most are built as one offs being 'Sleutel in de slot' i.e. key in the door for a fixed price, obviously for varying budgets. The house we rented was owned by a policeman. Incidentally you could get train assist in Halle, I dont think the fares are too spendy. 8 Euros for the bike. If you are under 26 its 6 euros anywhere in Belgium!

http://www.belgianrail.be/en/Default.aspx

andrewc · « **Reply #17 on:** 03 September, 2014, 08:53:24 pm »

Yes, it's an option. Last trip I got a train from Tongeren to Bruges for about €30. Maybe later in the trip when I want to get back to the coast.

Ivo · « **Reply #18 on:** 03 September, 2014, 09:39:48 pm »

Andrew, you expect to be in Maastricht somwhwere on friday?
That would be excellent planning since the yearly Bruis festival is on this weekend http://www.bruismaastricht.nl/

andrewc · « **Reply #19 on:** 04 September, 2014, 08:32:05 pm »

A very short day, only about 40Km. I faffed about with breakfast then found a rear wheel puncture & had to fix that & boot the tyre.

Warm & sunny from the start & the route goes through some lovely wooded areas south of Brussels.

I stopped for lunch at Hoeilaart, Cafe Nero. I ordered Ham something with frites. They brought me a massive ham hock with a bucket of mustard sauce, it was half the size of my head! Even with several beers to wash it down I couldn't finish it. €20

I trundled on to the campsite at Au Val Tourinnes, the best site yet, next to a lake with loads of geese , dragonflies to eat the Mozzies & an owl hooting!
The lady says there is nowhere to camp between here & Maastrict though, so tomorrow could be the hostel at Tongeren.

Ivo · « **Reply #20 on:** 04 September, 2014, 09:29:58 pm »

From Tongeren to Maastricht you can follow in interesting old road. First exit town via a Ravel, a converted railroad to Mal and Slins (Wallonia). Then along the Jeker valley towards Maastricht. Plenty of small roads parallel to the main road. Once you cross the Albert Kanaal move to the east bank of the Jeker for a more quiet way of entering town.

andrewc · « **Reply #21 on:** 05 September, 2014, 09:50:38 pm »

Another gorgeous sunny day & about 80Km. I'd let Openfietmap plot a route from the campsite back to LF6 , mistake! A steep climb over cobbles turned into an exposed & rutted farm track crossing some uplands. In the good weather it was OK on 1.5" Paselas, but in the wet it would been a nightmare.
Back to the main route for some minor roads. At Bierbeek I abandon LF6 for a bit & take the road to Hoegaarden. A couple of EgoTrippels outside a bar while I eat bread, gruyere & a tub of cherry tomatoes. Back on the bike I climb gently to the uplands south of Sint Truiden which are covered with Apple & pear orchards. Trees are full of fruit & I'm quite tempted to help myself!
At about 18:00 I cross the main road with a sign saying Tongeren 5Km so blast down that & check into the YHA. Beer & mosselen frites.

Not sure what to do tomorrow!
Finish the circle & follow the route back to the coast I did 2 years ago, which would probably mean heading along the Willemswart towards Bree.
Cross the border towards Aachen. I've never been to Germany. Don't speak a word of the language & have no maps!

Ivo · « **Reply #22 on:** 05 September, 2014, 09:58:06 pm »

Aachen is a hell-hole for cyclists. Bad drivers, awful cyclepaths and ghostriding cyclists. I'd suggest crossing the Maas near Visé, then going up to the Val Dieu monastry. Then follow the route of my 200k Vennbahn audax http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=lxuqxhnjlsvqcgzm . As an alternative you could take the bikepath at the right hand side of the Wesertalsperre to Monschau (very touristic and scenic) and pick retrace to the Vennbahn from there. You could even follow the reverse of the route I took as a clubride to Luxemburg using some very scenic tracks. Return to the coast from various railwaystations (Arlon being a good one):
http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=xmhhxqkmmeaskvqh

andrewc · « **Reply #23 on:** 06 September, 2014, 09:10:38 pm »

I've done a lot of swearing today, most of it aimed a
t myself.
Leaving Tongeren I made the classic navigation mistake of following the LF6 signs..... In the wrong direction.... After about 45 mins of this I realised the mistake & got onto the N79 which took me past Tongeren to the turn off for Sluizen where I picked up the route again.
As I crossed the canal at Kanne I became aware of another tear wheel puncture.
I had lunch at a cafe first, then set about fixing it. Caused by a bit of wire this time.
I couldn't get the tyre to sit straight in the rim, took about 4 goes! My pump is falling to bits, now the fold out plastic foot piece snapped!

I put everything back on the bike , rode off & realised it still wasn't right. Not enough air in the tube.

Head down & along the canal. I decided not to go to Thorn & aimed for a campsite I'd stayed at before near Bocholt.
At Bree I stopped to shop & found that I hadn't done up the rear quick release properly.....

The campsite is called Goolderheid, it's a sort of Troll themed holiday park. No staff at reception so I just find a spot & pitch. Last time there was no one in the morining so I couldn't pay :-(

It's very autumnal here, leaves are turning @ at times I'm riding through beech mast, acorns & conkers.
At the canalside earlier I saw a raptor with a crow in its talons, being mobbed by a large flock of other crows. It dived into the canal where after a brief struggle the crow got away. The raptor flew off, still being pursued by angry corvidae.

andrewc · « **Reply #24 on:** 07 September, 2014, 09:09:10 pm »

And yet another lovely autumn day!
The lady at the Troll campsite seemed surprised to see me & charged me €7 for the previous night. I rode back to Bocholt to buy some bread & rolls.
The rest of the day was spent pedalling 3 different types of landscape. Canal side cycle paths, fast , straight & frequently shared with gangs of Sunday roadies. Paths through fields & pine forests, lovely quiet & cool. Trails through suburban housing linking the previous 2.

I had lunch at a Fietscafe, then a bèer at another one later in the day. I arrived at the large Ballse Hij campsite at 7, just as the checkin was closing. €10, decent facilities though their shop had sold out of beer!