Author Topic: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build  (Read 1429 times)

Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« on: 25 August, 2019, 07:37:45 pm »
Hello all

I've been reading this forum for a while now (few years) and found so much useful / practical / real world  info, thank you for that

Couldn't find explicit answers to  those questions elswhere and I would appriciate to hear opinions and insights coz im pretty green compared to folk here....

So...
It would be the one and only bike, I don't race and most likely never will. Longest single day ride was 400-ish km, weekend ride about 780, so I dont really want to have a tank capable of carrying 200kg since I wont be doing any kitchen sink touring.... Audaxish or not too much bent over roadish geo would do.

Frame will be Ti, most likely custom and builder has been decided, straight or  slightly sloped TT is fine, I MIGHT add di2 option (but wont use it atm, more on that later) since it adds little to the build price and the inevetable re-invention of tripple is just few short years ahead... di3 and few other standards for sure

It has to fit 32mm tyres for winter and ofc guards... I would be ok with 28s for summer but in winter I'll run those
https://www.cykelkraft.no/dubbdack-622-32-28-nokian-240-dubb
On current bike I'm on 32mm gp5000 and like them... So those can stay as fair weather tyres

32/36 wheels, silver spokes, brass nipples, laced to front dyno hub... Lets say SON for now... If discs, rear would be Shimano FH-RS770 and gray hard-ano archetypes.

And now the dilemas...
I wanted to get rim brakes for this bike(VO Gran Cru's) but I will most likely end up with discs because winter conditions here are long +  in combination with salty granite grinding paste I belive those brakes would have quite an appetite on the rims

On my current bike I have cable discs (bb5... Thebad ones... I know), and they are more/less fine, tryed bb7... Quite nice ... Also tryed hydro and really like stopping power, however...  Hydraulic (IMHO) has some issues + industry driven marketing rape that really puts me off... Ofc that won't stop me from using them if they turn out to be best option
So...
1. Is there ANY hydro system (road or mtb) that lets you set  pad clerance and then auto adjustment keeps that clerance? I dont see a point of perma (lets say 1mm) clerance and then listen to  zing zing from sand/mud/road crap

2. Is pad clerance the same on road and mtb calipers? I think you can use mtb hydros with STIs provided you have required mounts and thats no problem with custom

3. Has the problem with pulling the brake with wheel removed been sorted out?  After some  15hrs in I can't really say I'm focused and can easy imagine scenario with accidentally pulling/hitting or w/e on a brake when  changing tube.... And how to resolve that problem with current systems? On the roadside, with no bleeding involved.

 Forks

I would like to avoid alu-carbon options coz imho there is unecessary potential failure point from joining dissimilar materials when compared to gains.

Decent light weight carbon options are either race orientated with no mounts and clerance or cost too much... Or both...

Something like this would be nice

http://www.rideaera.com/all-road-dynamo-fork/

https://cinq.de/de/carbon-gabeln/393/cinq-touring-fork?c=137#

Whiskey has some options also... Also pricy

Dyno routing is nice but not essential since I can make fender stays from seamless 5mm stainless pipe, 1mm wall thickness and then route coax trough it to the fender itself and then along the ridge (or if aluminium inside the bent edge) to the light. Already made one and it works like a charm, gilles berthoud style with flat part over guard... Dont have pics of it and no computer atm  but can prolly make a sketch if anyone interested

And that leads us to good old steel forks...

4. Whats on the offer stock/mass produced these days, 12mm TA, disc brakes, ? Flat or post mount matters little (or? )

5. If going custom fork too... Which tubes? 853? or 953 stainless? Columbus or some other equivalent? I think it doesn't make much difference. Personaly would prefer stainless but its not deal breaker.

Unicrown  has less joints, but in the end I think it matters little, unless they are better in dealing with forces from discs because of welds instead of braze

Upside is that mounts are not an issue, SON dropouts become possible... Nice option.

6. Whats the weight on them? Is sub 1kg possible? Or around that figure? Current bike has steel disc fork and I think its close to 1.3...but never bothered to weight it....could easy be more then modern carbon frameset xD

7. Any idea on price?

chainset and gearing

Was thinking R8000 ultegra since it can provide decent low gearing (And I'll need lower gears for winter)  with DA9000 cranks since most other new/modern cranks look horrible... Atleast to me... And it only gets worse when you hang them on Ti frame

Im aware that tripple would be prolly best solution for my needs but I have VERY little experience with setting it up, if there is electronic tripple front mech it would be no brainer...

(and here things get complicated)

Its not been long since I relocated... And where i come from there is no granite (just limestone) ... So now for the very first time I see what that grinding paste + chips  do to tyres, rotors, pads... Can only imagine rims...

Call me crazy or an idiot but I started to think about rear drum brake. Also... Absolutely no experience with those so if anyone who has some insight could enlighten me... Pretty please >.>

I saw the SA 70mm drum brake... Its only up to 9spd, and that is managable, Im much more interested in how well it works...  I dont expect it to brake like hydro disc... But some comparison with rim brake or my bb5 would be nice.

It's possible (atleast should be) to pair them with cable disc so I could run bb7 or spyre as front

The idea of weather proof silent brake that lasts a  long time is very appealing, even if it would be used as slow-down brake most of the time

Then gearing would have to be different...

So how stupid would it be to equip a 'new' bike with 9spd Dura-Ace 7700 triple sti's, rear drum, front cable disc brake, there are decent options of cranks and 9spd casettes so that is not an issue....essentialy putting 15year old stuff on new bike....
Dura-Ace, hub dynamo, tripple and drum brake on the same bike sounds sick, missing only aero spokes

Sincere thanks to those who managed to get through walls of text and if you are not drained enough by now any suggestion, opinion or insight is very much appreciated


LMT

Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #1 on: 25 August, 2019, 08:27:22 pm »
You really need to make your own decision and stick with it, the above...well. :facepalm:

What I would say is that Hydros do self adjust and resetting the wheel in the dropout is no big thing - in fact if you run a through axle there is no need to adjust AFAIK. If you have dropouts it takes 1 minute to reset the caliper by undoing the mounting bolts, squeezing the brake lever and then re-tightening.

Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #2 on: 25 August, 2019, 08:56:17 pm »
I’ve not heard of anyone with hydros complain about them rubbing. If your rotors are flat the standard clearance should be fine.

The clearance is set by the shape of the piston seals. Making it adjustable would be a whole new approach.

If you squeeze with the wheel off just use a plastic tyre lever to push the pistons back in. No bleeding required.

Cheap monocoque carbon forks with shedloads of clearance and mudguard eyelets exist. I have one of these:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32810447913.html

(Well, I have the whole frameset)

jiberjaber

  • ... Fancy Pants \o/ ...
  • ACME S&M^2
Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #3 on: 25 August, 2019, 10:51:58 pm »
Note Aera / Laverack won't sell you their dynamo fork separately - you'd need to buy it with one of their frames.
Regards,

Joergen

bludger

  • Randonneur and bargain hunter
Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #4 on: 25 August, 2019, 11:49:25 pm »
Quote
Was thinking R8000 ultegra since it can provide decent low gearing (And I'll need lower gears for winter)  with DA9000 cranks since most other new/modern cranks look horrible... Atleast to me... And it only gets worse when you hang them on Ti frame

You may be interested in the new Shimano GRX system - they say 'dedicated gravel' but that just translates into low gearing as far as I'm concerned though the clutch mech is also a nice touch. https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/information/news/shimano-grx--the-world-s-first-dedicated-gravel-component-group.html
YACF touring/audax bargain basement:
https://bit.ly/2Xg8pRD



Ban cars.

Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #5 on: 26 August, 2019, 06:21:01 am »
I’ve not heard of anyone with hydros complain about them rubbing. If your rotors are flat the standard clearance should be fine.

The clearance is set by the shape of the piston seals. Making it adjustable would be a whole new approach.

If you squeeze with the wheel off just use a plastic tyre lever to push the pistons back in. No bleeding required.

Cheap monocoque carbon forks with shedloads of clearance and mudguard eyelets exist. I have one of these:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32810447913.html

(Well, I have the whole frameset)

Well being able to take them apart is nice info.

Didnt happen to me, but friends removed mtb from car roof-rack, one of them squized front brake w/o wheel and spacer and they couldnt push them back, so thats the best info i have

Tripster v2 fork also ticks most boxes and has more less sensible price but didnt want to list 10+options since post was too long already
Im certanly  interested in 1st hand experiences with chi-carbon , be it forks or rims

@bludger

I saw that groupset and aside from lower gearing 2nd pair of brakes on hydro systems is prolly nice addition  for folks using aerobars... 1st groupset that offers it, atleast to my knowledge

Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #6 on: 26 August, 2019, 09:55:37 am »
I have limited knowledge of most of these things, but fwiw...

I did have avid hydro brakes (mtb) that were a right faff and frequently rubbed. Their Shimano replacements are much better.

When I’ve been looking at new frames, I think lightweight + steel + disc brake is a “choose two” kind of thing, in order to avoid flex under braking loads.

Re: Yet another undecisive person begging for help with build
« Reply #7 on: 28 August, 2019, 09:53:26 pm »
I would have thought that cheap steel disc forks should still be about 1kg (I think the Surly ones are that sort of weight). Mine weighs 1.4kg but it has 34mm blades and is 440mm axle-crown and was relatively cheap (and it was made for doing stunts in a bikepark, not riding on/off road like sensible people do)