Author Topic: Removing stuck FSA chainset? (Read 1154 times)

andyoxon · « **on:** 11 May, 2024, 09:10:00 pm »

Any ideas how to remove the drive side crank/chainrings of this FSA Gossamer chainset. NDS crank is removed but the axle (arm) doesn't knock out; so appears to be stuck. Carry on with hard wood block and heavy hammer? What types of BB bracket is the one installed?

CdF4 by a oxon, on Flickr

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #1 on:** 11 May, 2024, 09:55:12 pm »

spray with wd40, hit with hammer, put fsa chainset in bin where it belongs

MattH · « **Reply #2 on:** 12 May, 2024, 08:18:50 am »

Is it not the same as the Shimano Octalink, where you just need a square taper tool with a wider bit to push against the bottom bracket axle? Shimano's tool is to use a "top hat" adapter that slips into the threaded part of the that, with the "brim" just wide enough to sit on the outer edge without fouling the crank arm.

One of my tools has that built in - looks like a normal square taper puller, but on closer examination the part that pushes against the axle has a narrow section that drops into the threaded area of the axle, then a step wider, whose shoulder presses on the axle. Others have a swappable tip so you can put a standard or an octalink on.

Google for Octalink crank tool to see some options. I literally did this yesterday on an old 105 chainset, which looks like this when on the bike (random image off the net, not mine) - the tool presses on the really thin exposed circle of the axle, less than 1mm all around.

andyoxon · « **Reply #3 on:** 12 May, 2024, 08:27:38 am »

Thx both. AFAIA the FSA NDS crank which I removed is self-extracting, and with it off, the axle arm and DS crank rings should literally just press out. it doesn't of course. I'm wary of hitting too hard, & was wondering if the bottom bracket is bonded to the axle, whether force in hitting the axle end transmit to the bottom bracket threads in some way.

Any ideas on removing that BB (pressfit?) when the time comes?

MattH · « **Reply #4 on:** 12 May, 2024, 08:32:39 am »

Ah, sorry, wrong end of stick then. The pic you showed looked like octalink, I'd assumed the same both sides.

I'd probably do what Flatus suggested then if it was mine.

andyoxon · « **Reply #5 on:** 12 May, 2024, 09:51:11 am »

I have taken off the black plastic BB ring around the arm, and with frame horizontal at least the wd-40 'bubbles in'. Tried hitting again a few times again - doesn't budge. Will just leave it 'soaking' I guess.

ETA. I may need to bring the frame into the kitchen (to avoid irritating the neighbours), put earplugs in, and bash the axle until somthing happens...

rr · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 May, 2024, 11:42:32 am »

Use a specific penetrating oil rather than WD40. Find a way to support the bottom bracket on other side so the hammer blows go to the moving the axle rather than flexing the frame.
This part should be removable by hand or with a light blow or two so the bearings and chain set are toast. Can you get a wedge, ball joint splitter, crown race removal tool or other wedge between the drive side bearing and the chain set?

andyoxon · « **Reply #7 on:** 12 May, 2024, 11:50:49 am »

Quote from: rr on 12 May, 2024, 11:42:32 am

Use a specific penetrating oil rather than WD40. Find a way to support the bottom bracket on other side so the hammer blows go to the moving the axle rather than flexing the frame.
This part should be removable by hand or with a light blow or two so the bearings and chain set are toast. Can you get a wedge, ball joint splitter, crown race removal tool or other wedge between the drive side bearing and the chain set?

Cheers for this. Kroil is supposed to be good it seems - but v. spendy. I can hear bearing bits grinding inside atm. Not sure about a wedge for DS yet.

rr · « **Reply #8 on:** 12 May, 2024, 11:55:36 am »

As for getting the bearings out https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=121879.msg2686230#msg2686230
Precise tools will vary as the FSA axle is wider than my Shimano one and possibly the bb is different too. You don't appear to have anywhere for a puller to push either.

rr · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 May, 2024, 12:03:22 pm »

One more thought, if the bearings are in plastic inserts, can you warm the frame enough to soften them without damaging the frame? Possibly shave a little off and experiment.

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 May, 2024, 01:58:30 pm »

One of the problems with FSA are the very poor tolerances. I discovered this...ooooh.....18 years or so ago when I had a carbon FSA chainset and discovered that it was species to be fitted with a gap-filling glue on the axle spline/nds crank arm interface, such was poor fit.

Idle googling yesterday at adaptors for PF30 to 24mm axles, and I discovered a warning that if using FSA cranks to ve aware that they can vary from stated width by up to 0.7mm

You asked about getting out pressfit cups. The norm is something that looks like a headset cup remover (in fact that is what I use on BB30), but smaller ones are available. £9 on ebay

andyoxon · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 May, 2024, 03:18:31 pm »

Cheers rr & HF.

The BB is a FSA BB-86/92 24mm spindle, & it appears Burton Bikes do a 'classic removal tool' for ~£12, for when the chainset/axle is finally out.

I have actually been using WD-40 Specialist Fast release Penetrant I had*, rather than regular WD-40. Still taking it's time though.

*reminding me of my stuck seatpost saga.

Gattopardo · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 May, 2024, 06:50:17 pm »

Quote from: andyoxon on 12 May, 2024, 11:50:49 am

Quote from: rr on 12 May, 2024, 11:42:32 am
Use a specific penetrating oil rather than WD40. Find a way to support the bottom bracket on other side so the hammer blows go to the moving the axle rather than flexing the frame.
This part should be removable by hand or with a light blow or two so the bearings and chain set are toast. Can you get a wedge, ball joint splitter, crown race removal tool or other wedge between the drive side bearing and the chain set?

Cheers for this. Kroil is supposed to be good it seems - but v. spendy. I can hear bearing bits grinding inside atm. Not sure about a wedge for DS yet.

plus gas is a favourite, followed by diesel mixed with automatic transission fluid.

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 May, 2024, 06:59:10 pm »

Got it out yet?

andyoxon · « **Reply #14 on:** 12 May, 2024, 08:33:34 pm »

Decided to have another bash to tomorrow - top'd up the wd40 penetrant. Frame on it's side.

andyoxon · « **Reply #15 on:** 13 May, 2024, 09:37:06 am »

Ta da...

Finally released with a block of hardwood & rubber mallet. Last position was frame horizontal with DS crank resting on a log, then some blows without log in place.

Now to wonder if I can remove the pressfit BB, without spending £12.

fsa1 by a oxon, on Flickr

fsa2 by a oxon, on Flickr

Using about 1/3 can of this stuff:

Wd1 by a oxon, on Flickr

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #16 on:** 13 May, 2024, 09:47:51 am »

You can knock out the BB with a screwdriver if you don't intend to keep it.

robgul · « **Reply #17 on:** 13 May, 2024, 09:52:50 am »

Quote from: Hot Flatus on 13 May, 2024, 09:47:51 am

You can knock out the BB with a screwdriver if you don't intend to keep it.

. . . same concept with a thin cold chisel - just tap progressively around the circumference. If you happen to have a piece of tubing slightly smaller than the axle it's not difficult to make a tool to do the job (like the Park Tool bearing remover - tube with flared ends)

andyoxon · « **Reply #18 on:** 13 May, 2024, 10:20:38 am »

Thx, both. Now removed. On this frame it's an open bore BB shell (41mm internal diameter, 86.5mm shell width), with no threads. What are the best (probably Shimano) options, & for choosing a good bottom bracket etc? Not used pressfit before.

BB1 by a oxon, on Flickr

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #19 on:** 13 May, 2024, 10:36:28 am »

Are you getting new cranks?

For pressfit Shimano-standard BB86 is generally considered the best

andyoxon · « **Reply #20 on:** 13 May, 2024, 10:57:22 am »

OK thx. Not planning on re-using the FSA Goss, more than likely shimano, not sure what exactly yet.

vorsprung · « **Reply #21 on:** 13 May, 2024, 02:56:07 pm »

I usually use a sledge hammer and a headset remover on these bloody pressfit things
I assume that eventually the friction of removing / installing will ream the hole bigger making it momentarily easier to use, and then too loose

zigzag · « **Reply #22 on:** 13 May, 2024, 03:54:49 pm »

well done for knocking it out; i hope the juice is worth the squeeze!

any shimano 24mm chainset will fit fine, except i'd avoid those that are known to split

it's easy to install a new bb with a simple threaded rod, nuts and washers

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #23 on:** 13 May, 2024, 07:49:39 pm »

Quote from: zigzag on 13 May, 2024, 03:54:49 pm

it's easy to install a new bb with a simple threaded rod, nuts and washers

Proper tools are £12 now.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404592472672?itmmeta=01HXSMHR6TTJZFK15D5FCDSXBD&hash=item5e33973260:g:ycsAAOSwZGVlQ3Pp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0EGGK7z%2BmYOEz%2BjcBoB%2Fuzoc2zQ%2F8Mx80nCo384oe8PxNjYI8%2BUNCA2Vj9Pmgpl32XlfacL9Fhth%2BdvxTHZId5%2F0a2vRmb2phQDZEvyjnH6ODDMFWVfzktfR8Kl6LNcJXVatUI0sarIhZXcUeTB93CcNaa3SF%2FdcSxuygt9I2iybzeOvvKGJPdg%2F58sqdcdsJY7bRcPdTtELvV0%2BbfDrhRHRbf29NN55tLaV9YoGUWEnFH1UBCD1S7VAj%2BB3adIMt3UPLubu4Xm2DVRRZqZIQUU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76Dx7TuYw

finch · « **Reply #24 on:** 13 May, 2024, 09:19:34 pm »

Well done , looked a little grimy in there so that’s probably been a factor. Nothing wrong with FSA per se , they just like to be set up just so. Personally with any PF bb shell you can get a sleeve or a press in threaded job to take normal HT2 cups which is nice and hassle free - but if you’re getting the tools…