Rear hub for Campag groupset

[αdαmsκι]

I need a new rear wheel for my Ribble bike. Requirements:

• Campag freehub
• 32 hole
• 130 mm hub width
• Longevity - the bike is used for lightweight touring & audax rides

My choice is either Campag Record hub or Hope Mono RS Rear. Any reason why I should pick one over the other hub?

FYI the hub that has died is a Miche Racing Box Hub from 2010.

TIA.

[Hot Flatus]

I have both the Hope and the Campag Record.

Hope is very easy to change bearings and service.... But is loud.

Campag Record is smooth as butter.

[Rhys W]

Go for Record if you want longevity. I'm still riding my 2008 Record hubs, on their second pair of rims now. Easy to strip down and replace bearings.

[yoav]

I bought a pair of wheels with Campag Record hubs in 1976. They were still going strong, albeit with new rims when the bike was stolen in 1997. 

[jamesld8]

My Hope hubs have lasted and lasted; bearings easy to replace cartridge units; can be made quieter with a very little grease on freehub ratchet.

But at that price and using `real` serviceable bearings ie not bin cartridge units, if buying now I `d get Campag Record 

[rafletcher]

Or get a Miche Primato hub instead.

[Hot Flatus]

I'd agree with the Record

[αdαmsκι]

Sounds like the cheaper Record is getting the thumbs up over Hope.

Edit: And Record hub is now on order. Thanks for the help.

[phil653]

Does this mean I can expect my Miche Racing Box Hubs to fail in 2020?  What was the cause of death and what sort of milage had you put on them?  I've noticed that the alloy freehub body chews up a bit, but I've discovered a source for new freehubs for Miche and am considering that anyway so I can switch to Shimano pattern and thus install a bigger than 28 sprocket.

[Hot Flatus]

It wasn't the freehub, it was the ratchet teeth in the hub body worn away.

My advice would be to lightly grease them every 600 miles

[phil653]

It wasn't the freehub, it was the ratchet teeth in the hub body worn away.

I'm afraid I'm not quite geekytechno enough to understand the difference. Please enlighten. Does that mean a new body runs on the same pawl springs as the one you take off, rather than coming as a unit?

[Hot Flatus]

Have a look at this photo



Those teeth in the hub body are what was worn, and cannot be replaced. Hence need for new hub.

My advice is to periodically remove freehub and wipe a thin layer of grease over these teeth.


The freehub body looks similar to this:

http://www.zipp.com/_media/images/support/identify/hub_cassettes/Hub-188-Campy-Conversion-Kit.jpg

Those little prongs are called pawls. They are spring-loaded and lock into the ratchet teeth when you pedal. When you freewheel the freewheel is effectively turning in the opposite direction and the pawls flap against the top of the teeth. This is what creates the clicking sound when freewheeling, but it is also causing wear on the pawls and teeth.

I lent a wheel to adamski when his broke. He wasn't allowed to freewheel. I rode closely behind him to enforce this.

[phil653]

Ah-ha! Better than a thousand words... Ta muchly.

[Hot Flatus]

See edit for more info

[phil653]

Is this failing a particular weakness of the Miche RB hubs, or the consequence of humungous milage - Greece and back included plus multiple audaxing? 
I went for Miche hubs in the new wheels after 18 years good service from Miche Professional hubs in the sprints/tubs. But they were screw-on fitting so I'd simply replaced the freewheel when the time came. The tandem has 1st gen. Dura Ace hubs, still going strong and free running... since 1974!

[αdαmsκι]

Milage is unknown, but talking way over 10,000+ at a conservative guess. They were used for 14 mile one way commute for four months, a huge number of audax rides including a 1200 km ride and three 600s, some cyclo touring including a 2,000 mile ride to Greece. You get the idea...